Rotoflex/Metalastic couplings - spares?

[bazmonaut]

Hi

The rotoflex couplings on my 1300 (which looks remarkably like the photo posted in this forum, right down to the tear in the lining near the rear window) are falling apart. I have lost a section of the donut - saw it bouncing down the road through my rear-view mirror.

Trouble is I can't seem to find anyone with spares. This is my first Triumph and I have a feeling I'm just not doing it right - looking for spares in the right places, that is.

Are these parts still available? Can I make do with a used set?

Cheers for any assistance.

Barry

[Greeks]

I would say they certainly need replacing! Don't get second-hand ones either!

The couplings are pretty easy to find, normally. I don't know if they're a different size to the Vitesse/GT6 ones, but i see those at autojumbles regularly. The major Triumph suppliers list them - Canley Classics, Rimmers, etc.
If you can wait til February you're almost certain to get them at Stoneleigh, possibly a bit cheaper - they're normally £35ea for the repro. ones, or £70ea for the metalastic ones (apparently far superior). But if you look up Mick Dolphin (who goes to all the shows) he does the metalastic ones for £35 last time I looked
  ;D

Taking the old ones off, you need to compress them w/ a special tool that no one has ever seen ... it's probably in Jason's shed or something ... so i improvise with a few large hose clips attached together and tightened up one by one until the bolts come out easily.

Good luck Barry!

[Tim Bancroft]

Barry,
I've got Metalastick Rotoflexs on my GT6  that have been fitted since 1991. Still in good shape.

Do try to buy Metalastick not repro. as I 've heard that these inferior copies do not last. Also as a pig job you don't want to have to do it again.

As a note to Grahams advice just cut the old ones off. When fitting the new ones do not cut the metal band, that is fitted to them to keep in shape, until you have inserted and tightened the bolts up. Use new bolts as well, they should have a nylon coating over them at a point along the length of thread that scews into the spider which acts to prevent the bolts coming undone, if not present use some nylock and ensure that you tighten the bolts to the correct torque setting.
Speak to Canley Classics: 01676 541 360, they will be able to help you.

[Greeks]

[quote by=timbancroft61 link=Blah.pl?b=fwd,v=display,m=1074593671,s=2 date=1074603314]
just cut the old ones off. [/quote]

Good point Tim! I've not done it this way before, as I kept the old ones on after replacing a half-shaft as they were virtually new, and at those prices I wasn't going to shell out for new ones so soon (i don't care what the manuals say!)

[Johanne]

The couplings are identical to those on Mk.II Vitesse/GT6

[Toledo Man]

Are you referring to my 1300fwd? Maybe we could get in touch and compare notes? Your Rotoflex section bouncing down the road reminded me of a couple of similar expriences I had with 2 of my Ford Sierras where I lost a section out of the doughnut joint on the propshaft. The previous owner of my 1300fwd had both of the Rotoflex couplings replaced at £45 each from John Kipping (I believe it is now Canley Classics - I tried the John Kipping website and it took me to Canley's site)

Don't forget to try Quiller Triumph as well. I got my rubber exhaust mountings for my 1300fwd from them.

[bazmonaut]

Cheers guys, your advice is much appreciated.

I did find a repro pair through Rimmer Bros for £23 plus VAT - very good service as they are delivering tomorrow. I'll post a note to let you know how I go, and also how long they last. Also ordered a CV joint.

I think I went into a bit of a panic after calling a few companies and finding they didn't have any. Up-side is that I found this forum!

ToledoMan, I'm based in Slough/Reading - where are you? I have two further questions for you:
- what does the little pull-button underneath and to the left of the steering column do?
- is there any way to fix Triumph's little gifts of an optimistic fuel gauge and pessimistic temperature gauge?

Cheers

Barry

[Silvery]

I'm not sure chopping the old ones will help get them off the car - I've just stripped my old 1300, and the driveshafts are a pain to get out as it is, even worse with bits of rubber still attatched I would think!

I found it easy enough to wedge a very large screwdriver through the gpas in the spider, and get a 3/4" ring spanner on the bolts - Can be done easily from underneath, or if you're outside and it's raining, not to tricky from above if you remove the battery :)

Mick Dolphin's very good for 1300fwd bits - Especially hard to find stuff - I got a door handle and starter amongst other odds and ends from him, when everyone else didn't have/ couldn't get :)

At a guess, the button you're referring to is the heater control valve - Is it hiding under the main dash, on that bit of vinyl infront of the heater box? If you look under the bonnet, you'll see a valve perched on the inlet manifold. If you're really really lucky, you'll even be able to pull the control out and push it back in, in an attempt to regulate the heat - But chances are either the valve, cable, or both, are seized. They look alot like Mini parts to me though, so shouldn't be tricky to replace :)

Can't help with the guages, other than to say check the voltage stabiliser (it lives behind the speedo, which can be a git to remove - And I *think* it feeds the temp guage), temp sender(at the front of the head), and tank sender. Or replace the guages - Same as Dolomite ones apart from the amps one :)

[Tim Bancroft]

Dear Bazmonaut,

Your gauge problems are being caused by a defective voltage stabiliser. New ones are still available, I have a spare secondhand one if you need it.

Are you a member of Club Triumph, if so you will find my no. under Local Group Co-ordinator on page 2 of Club Torque.

Good luck
Tim Bancroft

[bazmonaut]

Cheers again for your help guys, I replaced the couplings over the weekend. No dramas except for the nut on the lower wishbone ball joint - it had seen better days but I got it on in the end (not looking forward to taking it off again, tho).

Barry

[Jason]

Hi Bazmonaut - as you've probably discovered, there's no special tool just that new ones come compressed with a metal band that you cut off. Graham's right though, you can refit old ones using some sturdy jubilee type clips. However, as they are usually a pain to fit I would say it's false economy unless you really know the old ones are definately good.
There's much talk of these roto couplings. There are apparebtly three makes, Original Metalastik which are the dogs bollocks and to be purchased whenever you see them - they are still made but apprently the plant that makes them does one run a year only. Then there's ones marked "GM" that seem to be OK but are not as good as Metalastik - the GM ones are what most people sell as repro and seem to cost and last half of Metalastik. Then there are the no-name also rans, stuff that is old stock - risky and to be avoided unless obscenely cheap!
Canley's can get the GM ones new, the Metalastiks are rare but all come up on ebay everyonece in a while. These couplings were also used on Formula Fords so there are some beefier ones about - however, Formula Fords are not that torquey and it's the torque that kills drive train components.
I see you're in Slough/Reading - where abouts? I'm in Tilehurst in Reading.

;D