front pulley

[Alex]

How can I remove the front pulley on my 2000, I need to fit the viscous from my other engine as the current engine fan bolts on and I dont have all the fixings(bushes?).

Is it worth fitting an electric fan on a 2000 or not?

Thanks Alex

[AlanChatterton]

Chock the back wheels, put it in 2nd gear, handbrake on hard.

Socket and a long pipe on the nut and lean on it, it will move but I think its about 90lb/ft.........! Standard thread.

The pulley will then need "working" off as it is a tapered fit on the crank.

Then just bolt the new one on........ check the torque wrench settings!

I have never had an electric fan on any of my 2000's' even towing a but van in the summer. I think if you need a fan (in the UK that is!) then you are only trying to disguise a bigger problem............ like a poor cooling system, clogged up block or blocked/knackered rad.

[Alex]

I put it in gear and tried to undo it but didnt chock my wheels ;D can you guess why Alan?

[Gt6s]

AlanChatterton wrote:

The pulley will then need "working" off as it is a tapered fit on the crank

Not tapered, but keyed on a straight shank.

[AlanChatterton]

Alex wrote:

I put it in gear and tried to undo it but didnt chock my wheels ;D can you guess why Alan?

Um, no prop shaft?!!

Fit the prop then try again, it is tight!

And, GT6s is right, it is not tapered but a tight slined fit. Couple of taps and gently lever it off (make sure you keep it straight otherwise it will lock up!)

[Dizzy]

Alex wrote:

I put it in gear and tried to undo it but didnt chock my wheels ;D can you guess why Alan?

Damn those autos!

If a heavy rap on a length of scaffold tube over an socket arm won't move it, you might need to remove the starter and wedge a chisel or heavy screwdriver blade in the ring gear to lock the engine.  If it's really tight, it may need one person to heave on the scaffold tube whilst the other hits it with a big hammer.  Shock treatment is the usual answer for stubborn bolts.

Another way it might be possible to lock the engine is to remove the access bung in the backplate and fit a socket and extension onto one of the torque converter bolts so that the extension lodges against the edge of the hole.  I've not tried this but, as I say, it might be possible.

It's probably also possible to lock a piston through the spark plug hole somehow.  I've always steered clear of this myself but can't really argue against it.

Not sure about Alan's 'no fan' theory.  Wouldn't Triumph have omitted them from UK cars if not needed and offered a fitting kit for tropical use? They would have saved thousands of pounds!  I'm keeping mine on, though it is the viscous coupled type so not too much power loss.

[Steve Cureton]

I've had to resort to using a hammer and chisel in the past, use a blunt chisel as you're only using it to drive the nut anti-clockwise and NOT trying to cut through the nut. Obviously you will need a new nut afterwards. I was concerned the shocks might damage the bearing but my concern was unfounded.

[Dizzy]

Steve_Curton wrote:

I've had to resort to using a hammer and chisel in the past, use a blunt chisel as you're only using it to drive the nut anti-clockwise and NOT trying to cut through the nut. Obviously you will need a new nut afterwards. I was concerned the shocks might damage the bearing but my concern was unfounded.

Heathen!   ;)

Actually it's a bolt, not a nut, and this would be harder to undo with a chisel... and harder to replace unless you've got a spare Triumph original lying about.

[Dizzy]

Dizzy wrote:

Not sure about Alan's 'no fan' theory.  Wouldn't Triumph have omitted them from UK cars if not needed and offered a fitting kit for tropical use? They would have saved thousands of pounds!  I'm keeping mine on, though it is the viscous coupled type so not too much power loss.

And don't forget that a crank-mounted fan also helps cool the oil in the sump!

[Greeks]

Dizzy wrote:

Heathen!   ;)

That's it David ... you're getting the hang of this insulting thing now  :P

[thealligator]

Take plugs out.

Put socket on nut,

long bar against chassis rail and flick the key and couple of times

You might need some mug to hold the bar in place but watch your finger

It does work!

[Alex]

To be fair to Alan I think he was talking about additional fans (electric).

Oh and Dizzy its a manual now ;D

On this engine it does indeed have a nut however on my other with the viscous its a nut.
Is it okay to fit the viscous with the bolt?

Cheers everyone
Alex

Ps Alligator, long bar chassis rail ....if your passing ;D

[Steve Cureton]

Dizzy wrote:

Actually it's a bolt, not a nut, and this would be harder to undo with a chisel.

True on both counts, but it does work cos I've done it. You can buy replacement nut/bolt from the usual suspects, although it is a bit pricey for a small item. Actually I'm not sure if it's classed as a nut or a bolt, it's a sort of bolt but with a thread down the center of it rather than the outside. Rimmers call it a nut.

[Gt6s]

Steve_Curton wrote:

True on both counts, but it does work cos I've done it. You can buy replacement nut/bolt from the usual suspects, although it is a bit pricey for a small item. Actually I'm not sure if it's classed as a nut or a bolt, it's a sort of bolt but with a thread down the center of it rather than the outside. Rimmers call it a nut.

Six cylinder cars use a bolt.

Four cylinder cars use a nut as you describe.

The car in question is a 2000 so it's a bolt.

[Steve Cureton]

Ah, why do I always think in four pots :-)

[piman]

Hello David,

"And don't forget that a crank-mounted fan also helps cool the oil in the sump!"

I think that may be a bit of wishful thinking? The majority of the frontal aspect of the sump is blocked by the cross member. Forward motion will pass air over what is available of the sump better than any fan.
I don't have an engine driven fan at all. And as I fitted an oil cooler I thought it would be an idea to fit an oil temperature gauge as well. All that did was prove that I had no need of an oil cooler as the oil temperature doesn't get very hot. In fact most general short journeys it doesn't get hot enough. I would add that i have a thermostat in the oil cooler circuit.

Alec

[Slimboyfat]

Steve_Curton wrote:

. You can buy replacement nut/bolt from the usual suspects, although it is a bit pricey for a small item. Actually I'm not sure if it's classed as a nut or a bolt, it's a sort of bolt but with a thread down the center of it rather than the outside. Rimmers call it a nut.

Actually unless your 'usual suspect' is running on old stock the large nut holding the pulley on the large crank 1300, and the 1500 hasn't been available from the trade source for about 18 months.
No problems with any of the 6 cylinder bolts (or set screws as the case may be).

[Slimboyfat]

piman wrote:

Hello David,

"And don't forget that a crank-mounted fan also helps cool the oil in the sump!"

I think that may be a bit of wishful thinking? The majority of the frontal aspect of the sump is blocked by the cross member.

Alec

We had a customer over from NI years ago who had cut holes in his chassis cross member and welded in substantial tubes to direct air on to his sump. Not sure of the merits or otherwise of this but it was certainly a neat job.

[Gt6s]

Slimboyfat wrote:

We had a customer over from NI years ago who had cut holes in his chassis cross member and welded in substantial tubes to direct air on to his sump. Not sure of the merits or otherwise of this but it was certainly a neat job.

Yup. Know the guy and the car.
He also had tubes runing through the sump, and yes it did work oil temp guage testified.

Too complex 4 me.

[thealligator]

Alex wrote:

Ps Alligator, long bar chassis rail ....if your passing ;D

Have bar will travel!

Nearly lost my bloody fingers changing the cambelt on the wife's ZX desiel forgot to pull the plug on the injector pump.

Wife turned key and it started but got the nut undone

[Dizzy]

piman wrote:

<snip>
Forward motion will pass air over what is available of the sump better than any fan.

Agreed, Alec, but that doesn't help with stop/start driving in urban traffic jams.  As you say, there are obstructions to air flow to the sump, but limited flow is better than no flow at all.

[Dizzy]

thealligator wrote:

Take plugs out.

Put socket on nut,

long bar against chassis rail and flick the key and couple of times

You might need some mug to hold the bar in place but watch your finger

It does work!

I admit I've done this in the distant past myself but didn't mention it as (a) it is potentially very dangerous and (b) it can do a lot of damage if it flies off, especially if the radiator hasn't been removed!