Jump to content

Fesour

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi - I've been getting some great advice on my earlier thread 'What the heck....." but I think it got too long.

My estate ran fine until a few months after getting it (a barn find, last taxed in '89) it lost power and when asked to move, would conk out. I thought it was a cylinder, but was told that only one wouldn't have that effect. The dry and wet pressure check didn't show a particular cylinder as being a reason.

I then checked the leads and dizzy and that seemed ok.

So I looked at the fuel line. Everything to the pump and beyond seemed ok (good flow). Removed the float on the front carb and cleaned it and the needle. The front three exhaust manifold pipes had been cool with the back ones very hot, but after cleaning the float and needle, next time they were hot. But the car still didn't like starting and certainly wouldn't move much - but did a bit, which it wouldn't before.

So, given the fact that the car was a barn find until recently, I'm thinking that I need to go further into the carb - problem is I don't know how! Having cleaned up the needle and in and out pipes, what else is there to look at? The bowl looked ok-ish, a bit of crud on the bottom but not that much...

Any ideas?

Posted

I assume you have checked timing? I would also replace the points and condenser (cheap as chips)

Is it running stromburgs or SUs? either way they are very simple. I would remove them and take them apart (remove top cap and pistons etc) and ensure all jets are clean and clear, perhaps a good soaking in degreaser.

There isnt really much that go wrong really, and even if they are old and getting worn out they should still work well enough to have the car drivable.

Does it misfire when you try move it or whats they atorey there?

EDIT: I just had a glance over your first post int he what the heck thread. Have you checked/set valve clearances?

Posted

I am going 'back to basics' as a certain political party once said....

The guy I got the car from managed to get it through the MOT and I can see he replaced the dizzy and the oil filter and a few things.

BUT, did he replace the air filter? Could that be my problem? Probably not......but I think I'll remove filters and see how it runs.....

Am going to get new condenser also, already have new leads and plugs.....

The front SU bowl did have gunk in the bottom, but not that much. (I only checked the front carb because the front 3 exhaust exit pipes were not hot, suggesting that the problem was with that carb....)

Perhaps that's it....air supply....the spindle turns ok, so maybe it's the air filter for that carb.....now that would make me happy!!

Posted

heraldhabitat wrote:
My 2.5 conked out the other day and it was a blocked air intake, you never know where mice have been building nests!!


You need a  CAT alytic converte
r Chris  :)

Posted

So, I was rushing about but today took off the air filters and gave her a turn. Fired for a moment and then died. Tried again and the engine turned, but wouldn't fire at all....so this must be a fuel supply issue - haven't stripped the carbs, but it can't be them - or can it...? I recently re-did the fuel line from the pump to the carbs and the petrol was flowing (all over the floor!).

I haven't buggered around with the carbs because I'd probably make any problem worse....I did look into the pot of the front one and it looked ok - some, but not much crap....

Earlier I had got good spark from the plugs against the block.....

I may have to get some help.....as in paid for help :-(

Posted

I suspect a full carb tune would be a great starting point. Be glad to do it for you if you pay my airfares from NZ  :K)
I have done two this weekend alone and now starting on a triple Stromberg setup tonight, gulp.

Steve

Posted

Take a deep breath.

Search for SU carb tuning and follow the instructions, pausing to take it all in and understand why you're doing what you're doing.

It's not technically difficult, and even if you don't completely solve the problem you'll know a lot more about that part of the car and it shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...