Oil leak around the sealing block on my Herald 13/60

[Antonnick]

Two years ago, with much help and advice here on the Forum I replaced the Crankshaft on my Herald 13/60 in order to get rid of the engine rumbling. 

After reinstalling the engine, the front end developed an anoying oil leak. The old Alu sealing block I then replaced in-situ with a steel one. It still leaks but not as much as before. I want to seal it once and for all. 

I suspect the gaskets both of the front engine plate as well as the timing cover , being oil soaked from before are allowing oil to escape even though the sump and steel sealing block bolts are tightened up well. 

I can remove and replace the timing chain cover gasket with a new one  no problem but I do not relish the idea of having to remove the timing chain and gear wheels again, the front engine plate and gasket whilst the engine is still in the car. 

Is there another way? Am I being too pessimistic about this front engine plate gasket leakage? 

[glang]

Are you certain its not coming down from the crank oil seal? Maybe clean off and dust with talc before running engine to check...

[Antonnick]

100% certain it is not - there is absolutely no sign at all of any oil around the oil seal - that was actually the first thing I checked. 

Am just in the process now of taking off the timing chain cover.

[glang]

I take it was all assembled ok with the little fillet wedges bashed in at each end of the bridge piece? And did you use the two little gaskets that go between the bridge and block? I didnt on my Vitesse as it didnt have them before and would have made my original alloy bridge piece sit proud of the block sump surface. Also I think the timing cover needs to be done up first while the bridge is still slightly loose and then its block fixing bolts tightened so as to ensure the timing cover has a uniform surface to seal to....

[Antonnick]

As the pulley has been off before, it did not need an extractor and has saved me the task of removing the radiator and all that involves. I was able to ease it off. Thence I took off the timing chain cover and cleaned up the mating surface. It was also possible to tighten up the 4 bolts which secure the front engine plate at the lower level which hopefully, will tighten up the gasket as well. 

With a new gasket + sealer I will replace the cover tomorrow. Not an easy task I know from before trying to line it up and hold the tensioner in place at the same time.

The wooden filler pieces and gaskets I did before and it does not seem to be leaking there - I am not going to remove the sealing block for the time being. 

[glang]

Sorry, realise I made a mistake in my post as of course the bridge piece has to seal against the front plate not the timing cover but the logic still applies: using the front bolts to pull the bridge forward before tightening its underside bolts. Hopefully though not going to be necessary👍

Another thing however is the face of the timing cover and I would run a straight edge over it. If the bolt holes are distorted they need gently hammering flat and also any high points can be filed flat.... 

[Antonnick]

No problem Mr Glang - you cannot be in a position to actually see with your own eyes what is going on in the depths of my car engine!

Anyway, I have put everything back together and will see what happens. I used a new gasket for the timing cover of course but I also smeared it with the blue sealing stuff for good measure. I did inspect the cover flange which seemed to be in reasonable condition. It is also good to know that the bolts now screwed into the steel sealing block can be done up really tightly.

It might be that there is also oil leaking from the base of the distributor or even the oil pressure relief valve. I have cleaned up the area around these points and will observe.......

Edited August 19, 2022 by Antonnick