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I have posted this in the GT6 / Spitfire blog, but my ignition switch problem could be common to any Triumph near the 1972 vintage, not just my GT6 Mk3.

I have a pair of contacts on my ignition switch with a loose rivet, which makes the car die.  I bought a replacement switch but I couldn't see how the old switch came out so I wound up pulling my steering collumn out.  The factory sure made it tough for theives, shear bolts that are covered by tubular brackets (I think I can throw the tubular brackets away - they don't seem to have much function other than to protect the switch housing).

To look at the switch supplied in the car, it seems that it is held in place by 3 (switch) housing tabs pressed into corresponding slots of the white plastic back of the switch that contains the 7 electrical terminals (4 in a line up one side, 3 in a line up the other side of the switch back plate).
What's odd is that my new switch has the same Lucus part number (157 SA) as the old switch, but about the only thing it shares is the diameter and the fact that it too has 7 electrical terminals (although they are configured in a row around the switch perimeter).  This switch has 4 slots, and it is all metal with the exception of a brown plastic (recessed) back plate.
I bought the switch from Victoria British (in the states) and they have no technical department to help me through this.

As mentioned, the reason I'm replacing the switch is because one rivet that holds a pair of terminals has become loose - enough to where the car, just dies.
I would try to solder the rivet, but I fear that it won't last.
Has anyone run up against a different configured switch, or had success soldering old dirty terminals/rivets.  Maybe some good acid flux first???

I'm currently bypassing the ignition switch with an on/off switch and a starter button.  I'm half tempted to just find a permanent location for these, and be done with it.
A future owner may take issue with that, however.

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Hello Docman,

regarding soldering terminals, while it is possible using an adequate size iron, I doubt that you will do more than solder the outer terminal to the rivet, but the inner contact is still likely to be loose. The heat of a poor or overloaded contact damages the plastic base and so the rivet clamping force is lost. There's no harm in trying but I wouldn't bet on it being succesful?


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