Dannyb Posted June 2, 2023 Posted June 2, 2023 Spit 1500. Due to no1 cylinder leaking into the the coolent. I changed head gasket. Also while I had the head off I changed camshaft and followers for a mk3 grind. This has really transformed the car. I've only done about 20 miles but decided to recheck the tappet gaps. Took off the rocker cover and found the dreaded milky oil. My oil level has gone up and water level down. Took off the rockers and checked the head bolts. The two middle ones weren't tight enough. I know I torqued the the bolts in the correct order in gradual steps and went over them again. Looks like a new headgasket needs ordering.😪 Danny Quote
yorkshire_spam Posted June 2, 2023 Posted June 2, 2023 Oh that's bad luck @Dannyb, I hope you get it sorted soon so you can enjoy the engine with the new cam! Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted June 3, 2023 Posted June 3, 2023 16 hours ago, Dannyb said: Spit 1500. Due to no1 cylinder leaking into the the coolent. I changed head gasket. Also while I had the head off I changed camshaft and followers for a mk3 grind. This has really transformed the car. I've only done about 20 miles but decided to recheck the tappet gaps. Took off the rocker cover and found the dreaded milky oil. My oil level has gone up and water level down. Took off the rockers and checked the head bolts. The two middle ones weren't tight enough. I know I torqued the the bolts in the correct order in gradual steps and went over them again. Looks like a new headgasket needs ordering.😪 Danny Did you get the correct gasket? Also use Payen type when doing so. Maybe you have a warped head or case? Quote
Dannyb Posted June 3, 2023 Author Posted June 3, 2023 I did check head after I cleaned it. The head gasket was for 1500 with recessed fire rings. And it up the right way. I will double check flatness when I take it apart Monday. Danny Am I right I don't need new studs. I'm using the mini nuts with the flange. 1 Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted June 3, 2023 Posted June 3, 2023 3 hours ago, Dannyb said: I Am I right I don't need new studs. I'm using the mini nuts with the flange. WE use ARP head bolts and nuts Quote
PeteStupps Posted June 3, 2023 Posted June 3, 2023 6 hours ago, Dannyb said: Am I right I don't need new studs. I'm using the mini nuts with the flange. Yes Danny, I'm going through the same process on my mk3 and have it on good authority that the standard studs can be re-used no problem. Did you re-torque the head after its first heat cycle? This is a chore but very important - things settle slightly after heating up and cooling back down. Also, I'm told the flanged mini nuts can take more torque than the normal Triumph ones. Comprehensive instructions on Sideways here https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9922-bubble-bubble-toil-and-head-gasket-trouble/&do=findComment&comment=140306 Quote
Dannyb Posted June 4, 2023 Author Posted June 4, 2023 15 hours ago, PeteStupps said: Yes Danny, I'm going through the same process on my mk3 and have it on good authority that the standard studs can be re-used no problem. Did you re-torque the head after its first heat cycle? This is a chore but very important - things settle slightly after heating up and cooling back down. Also, I'm told the flanged mini nuts can take more torque than the normal Triumph ones. Comprehensive instructions on Sideways here https://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/9922-bubble-bubble-toil-and-head-gasket-trouble/&do=findComment&comment=140306 That's interesting. I did not torque the head once hot. I was going to do that after 500 miles. I will do that when I change the head gasket Monday. I wonder if I could run it for a short while with no coolent to get it hot and then torque or is that a bit dodgy. That's interesting about the nuts being able to take more torque. Danny Quote
65redspit Posted June 4, 2023 Posted June 4, 2023 Warm when you retorque it … I’d put water in it, run it for 15-20 mins, then let her cool down to warm and retorque the head (not when she’s hot or cold)… Quote
PeteStupps Posted June 5, 2023 Posted June 5, 2023 3 hours ago, 65redspit said: Warm when you retorque it … Interesting, i've always done it after it's cooled down. As in, run it up to temperature - maybe drive round the block - then torque up again the next day I'm in the garage. But my head has just started weeping so I'm not doing everything right! Quote
Clive Posted June 5, 2023 Posted June 5, 2023 I am in the process of putting a sprint engine together. A few weeks ago I refitted the head. Both the the block and the head have been skimmed, so nice and flat. Anyway, after a bit of deliberation about the order in which to torque the head (there are 2 different theories, all down to the angled studs) all was fine. After a week of being sat on the bench, I retorqued the head. And yes, the gasket had "given" and every nut got an extra bit of rotation. I will retorque again when the engine is in and been heat cycled. And again after a few hundred miles. I am hopeful that will do the trick! Quote
Dannyb Posted June 5, 2023 Author Posted June 5, 2023 I'll be stripping it down today and cleaning. While waiting for new gasket set to arrive. Probably won't get a chance to put back together until Thursday. Danny Quote
65redspit Posted June 5, 2023 Posted June 5, 2023 13 hours ago, Clive said: I am in the process of putting a sprint engine together. A few weeks ago I refitted the head. Both the the block and the head have been skimmed, so nice and flat. Anyway, after a bit of deliberation about the order in which to torque the head (there are 2 different theories, all down to the angled studs) all was fine. After a week of being sat on the bench, I retorqued the head. And yes, the gasket had "given" and every nut got an extra bit of rotation. I will retorque again when the engine is in and been heat cycled. And again after a few hundred miles. I am hopeful that will do the trick! If a Sprint, then again at a thousand miles too… Quote
Dannyb Posted June 5, 2023 Author Posted June 5, 2023 Head now off the spit and both surfaces cleaned. I checked straightness with a steel rule and could not get a 2 thou feeler gauge under it at any point. Smallest gauge I had. Probably be Thursday before i start to put it back together. Danny 1 Quote
Dannyb Posted June 9, 2023 Author Posted June 9, 2023 All back together.started her up , got it worm and re-torqued head.will drive it a bit and then check head torque again. 🤞 Danny 1 Quote
Dannyb Posted June 10, 2023 Author Posted June 10, 2023 All looks good, oil and water levels stable. will take it for a longer trip tomorrow. Looks like I'm ready for the C2C 🤞 Danny 1 Quote
Dannyb Posted June 29, 2023 Author Posted June 29, 2023 Re-tightened head. All OK. But the rocker rear pedistal to shaft screw has come out again. This is after i used locktight. Also no screw to be seen, so I removed no8 pushrod and put my magnet stick down and to my relief fished out the screw. What do others do to secure this screw. I noticed in the Haynes manual it has a shake proof washer but the factory workshop manual does not, also Rimmer catalogue doesn't have one. Danny Quote
standardthread Posted June 29, 2023 Posted June 29, 2023 Try a centre punch at the side of the screw? 1 Quote
Dannyb Posted June 30, 2023 Author Posted June 30, 2023 16 hours ago, standardthread said: Try a centre punch at the side of the screw? Worked a treat. Thanks Danny 1 Quote
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