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Rear calipers MK2 version


GT6 M

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Ive took the  modded Saxo VTS calipers off,
an put thee,s SX,ns in their spot.
much much better hand brake,as it was the HB cables touching the spring tunnel, and poor HB that was giv,n me greif.

on the Saxo, the amount that the lever travelled, befoer it took up was quite alott.
and to get the slack up, ye had to turn the adjusters right up,
thus pullin the lever towards mid of car, but not enough to put brakes on, BUTT.

cos they are sliding calipers,the outer pad was always running on disc.
inner was not touching, and not much either when footy brake applied,as the outer took the bite fust. Also, the HB was not that efficient.
take the actuating arm to the lowest pos, and the HB would be at full travel, befoer it did any good.
Put it on a diff hole further oot, towards HB cablein tunnel, and it took up, but was very poor leverage,  not v good at all.

with this set up, cables can remain slack, and have the pull point next to HB inner pivot, and 3 clicks, cant move the car at all.
all in a good move.

For any bod,ee with a sptty, or CV conversion, then all ye need is to mek up a bracket,and a new pipe for brakes.

Roto, ye need to put the lever on the other side, IE, the left lever goes onto the right. they just clip off, and the arm is a 17 mm spanner, simples.
Butt this requires the OE SX  Hand brake mount to be chopped off, and  little shaving to get it to rotate with oot touching body of caliper.

will need to shorten the end adjuster threads on each side by about an inch.
and  re drill 2 wols for clevis pins 1/2inch further inwards.
OE cable and attachments will work fine with mods above.

a few pics

thee,s  pic shows the cable ribbing on the tunnel,  on the smaller 240 mm MX 5 calipers,  this rubber pipe sufficed, as it rotated on cable as it moved up / doon the tunnel.
Butt, on the later discs, 35 mm bigger, it was a real problemo.

smaller and bigger discs

[/url

smaller disc set up, full droop,annd see where cable is on tunnel

[url=http://s545.photobucket.com/user/marcusaurailius/media/gt6%20brakes/bild1741.jpg.html]


NOTE, that with thee,s calipers, then it be ok to use the smaller ones,as the HB is so much better, went bigger originally to get a better brake, by increased lever actionee., it worked, but caused other probs,  of touching the tunnel.



this show OE saxo set up,  and  my modded set up.   the lever pulls towards the front moer on the Saxo OE set up, so would no suffer outer pad constantly on.



lever arm at rest, on Saxo



lever arm moved to where the pads just started to bite,,
this was moer than the OE Triumph set up could handle, to get a good brake.
and decent HB lever travel.



New set up,  note the shortened  threads on the ends of adjuster.
this so that with new  hole further inwards, it no touches on the caliper arm.
Note the position of the caliper arm to OE set up





note how if arm was  as OE, then it be on the roto side, and touching.



Original OE SX caliper,  its the arm bit that ye change over if on Roto,s, as it catches on the roto, so by putting the other side on  here,  the arm is where the mounting lugg is,{ 2 holes behint it }  
Its this mounting lugg ye gotta tek off, to get the arm to move bak ,n forads.
And this arm, does mot move much at all to be on, like 1/2 inch, and its fully locked up.
a 1/4 inch, and the wheels cannot be moved at all.
which results in a better hand brake, both in trvel, and effective ness.



Mebe some intrest to some who are going this route,
as as farr as im concerned, All buggs have  noo been eliminated.

M




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Rob,from what i gather, the MGF set up suffers same problemo as the Saxo set up,
the HB cable touches the tunnel, BUTTT, good news,

Gaa,n by the look of the MG caliper, its not that far of the SX,n.
so ye  be able to either swap the arms side to side, or mod the arm,
so that the arm goes to center of car moer, so no touches the tunnel.

depends also on disc size ye gonna use too. bigger the disc, the moer it needs to shift.
and it could be v v tight inside a 13 incher wheels.
But, ye no where I at for info.

here a few pics for ref.

SX ones, 2 types,one with bigg arm, other as I got, bigg arm is SX240 US version.

NOTE, the slots in the pistion end, thee,s are for screwing the piston back,  {cant push em back as front ones on yer car.}
they can be tight, and split the rubbers if got stiff,  so take oot and red grease the seating areas in caliper, and piston.
then with the aid of the  Angle Grinder Spanner ye got, this is a good fit into the slots to use as a wind back tool. nee need to buy a special tool.





MGF caliper, v similar, so can swap levers aboot,or mod the arm.
dont think ye will need the OE braket for  HB, as the Triumph et up works ok with my mods
as done in above post



  

No need at all Ive found with this, or other set up to use a balance bar / reducer.

BUTT, ye will need a RPV item,  this can fit into brake line,
I fitted mine onto the MC, but really can go any where,
IF ye got a split set up, then may need 2. but think yours is the single, correct.!!
really is a must, as the extra pistionee area will mek pedal move alottttttt.
with thee,s things,its hardly any move ment at all, alott less than standarad even.

RPV



And, just doon the road frae yer new abode too.
http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/brake-residual-pressure-valve-2psi-for-disc-brakes-675/


on fronts I got 12 inch discs and 4 pots.
butt its maybe a biit of over kill,  buttt,I just need to feather the brakes,
to get it to stop at a humungous  rate, with plenty in reserve.





may be of some help to ye , as get it done, and ye can blast up Bo,ness Hill with it,!!!

M

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