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Jaguar fuel tank changeover switch BULB


lordleonusa

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OK, so much for that!

Moving swiftly along now, to the Oil Temperature Gauge, not presently connected, until I re-connect my oil cooler etc...

Thankfully, this one gives a much better impression of the improvement in brightness!

Otherwise some people 'might' think I was wasting my time with this project!

L

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For the next two shots, readers will have to go back up the thread to look at the original photos of the speedometer and tachometer:

They are on page three above...

But here they are with the new LEDs illuminating them, somewhat of an improvement in brightness certainly.

I have also put the same LEDs into the three warning lights, an dthey are certainly brighter.

L  

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And, (almost) finally, I did eventually manage to get a photo of the Jaguar Fuel Tank Changeover Switch when illuminated by LED.

It was not possible to take a photo of it when illuminated by incandescent bulb, as it was just too dim.

This is the switch that started me off on this seemingly never-ending quest to improve my lighting.

Léon

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Now, as intimated earlier, he who must not be named, Joeseph Lucas, is baaaack!

Previously, before I started ths LED project, I had noticed that my two position main lighting switch had begun to act a little oddly.

ie. it would cause the instruments to flicker for a second or two, unless I gave it a slight twist, which is not normal.

This btw is not the brown bakelite switch as found in Heralds, this is the box shaped switch as found in the Mk.2 Vitesse and is usually more reliable.

anyhow, since the problem was very intermittent, (the best kind!), I chose to ignore it until it gets worse!

Well, just as I completed my LED changeover, I lost ALL instrument illumination, so naturally I thought I must have inadvertantly disconnected something behind the dash, but couldn't find anything.

Nothing else was wrong, just the instrument lights.

After a bit of digging, under the dash, I found one of the three in-line fuses to be responsible for the power to the dashboard instruments.

It was a glass 5 amp fuse, and it was blown, fair dos, thought I, it is at least 10 years old, and I probably caused it to blow somehow.

Anyhow, I replaced it and lo and behold all the instruments lit up!

By now it was around 2am and getting a mite cold out there!

I switched the lights on and off a couple of times to double check and at first all seemed OK, but then...

the speedometer, tachometer and fuel gauge lights went dark, but none of the others!

No amount of fiddling with the switch would cause them to come back on again, so I rechecked the fuse, and it was fine, I checekd all the other fuses and they wre fine, then I decided to pack it in for the night before I caused any more probelms!

I disconnected the battery and went indoors.

Seems to me that the master light switch has finally given up the ghost?

Perhaps the ghost of Joseph Lucas?

Dim, Flicker, Off...

More later

Léon

mutter, mutter...

gotta love these cars!

  

  








  









  

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Thanks Steve,

Nice to get some positive feedback!

I aim to keep my car for many years, so any improvements in longevity and reliability are worthwhile, and perhaps those LEDs won't put so much load on my main lighting switch in future? All those amps add up!

The headlamps and Hazard lights run via relays so they should be OK.

L

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Lucas Switch, # 343170, or as some call it: # 34317: 3-position toggle switch, 1st position is power to column, 2nd is power to instruments:

AKA: Lighting, Wiper, Fan control switch for MGB, TR, Spitfire:

Available for ONLY $69.50 from atlantaimported.com as # 542-050

or Holden in the UK for 44.95 GBP excluding VAT...even more expensive!!!

Notably, Rimmer Bro's list it as # 131812U for 13.95 GBP excluding VAT

I wonder if that is really the same switch?

and, I wonder if it is a new one?

Canley's website seem to be down right now.

Hmmm,

I think I will try and source a couple of 2nd-hand ones!

Regards

L?

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On mulling this over, I do not see how it can be the switch, since some gauges are lit and some are not?

I will have to carefully check all the instrument illumination wires, which are white/red to see if I have a loose, or disconnected connection somewhere?

Maybe it's a bullet connector?

L

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