Seized suspension parts

[Steve P]

Anyone have any suggestions on how to separate a roto hub assembly thats stuck fast,i cant get the long bolt that goes through the bottom of the upright and wishbone to shift at all and the four bolts that go through the rubber coupling are similarly welded to the spider bit.
Ive tried heat,paraffin and bfh so far.
Steve

[Scottie55]

I had the same problems as you with well rusty bolts on the roto assemblies. They were as rusty as you get. If you can leave the long bolt in place I recommend that, I did. You don't have to replace if its in good order. For the doughnut bolts, two sets of three, I used copious amounts of release oil over a few evenings and then heated them with a blow torch. After that I used a very strong socket and an extention bar about 500mm long and then the little blighters came loose. You may risk shearing them, very unlucky if that happens, but you have to get em out somehow. If sheared, the remaining bit can be drilled and removed with a thread extractor.

[GT6 M]

A couple of ways  I have used,

1,  if you gota blow lamp, heat them up, and put them in the vice,[if its big enough ]
or get a loan of a press, and put a socket over one end, and try and shuv it thru,
whilst still applying heat
heat and pressure generally work, when/if it moves, go and press frae the other side,
this back wards and forads motion will get it out,.

2, Drill some little holes in the whish bone ends, and the link area,
2 on the whishbone ends, and 4 on the link, only about  a 16th
then you can put WD, or the like down em,
this will work faster

3, If you just want to heat the bolt mostly, then get your self a  carbon rod,  
ordinary batterys are a good source, bigger the better,
put the rod onto one end of  a jump lead and a batt terminal
the other jump lead on to the bolt,, and a batt terminalthe rod ..ON t

now , you put the  rod ..on .. the other end of the bolt,.

the rod will glow white hot, but it wont melt, break,  and you can heat the bolt ends up

this heating from ..inside,  will swell the bolt, and hope fully break the rust
when it cools,.
can also use this on the outer parts too,

I just no so long ago, took the shocker bolt out this way, with the help of a press as well,
so it does work,
Also good for confrined areas ,

regards  Marcus

[logicaluk]

gt6m ive never heard of that before nice one.

I take it you mean AA batterys
theres a particualy well seized bolt holding the rear suspention on most acclaims. wounder if this would work.
Dan

[GT6 M]

You need a fuuly charged battery, and some really good thick jump leads,
as the small ones will just melt,!!!, honest,.

I actually used it again  yesterday, on me MX to undoo the rear bleed nipples,
heated up the caliper around the nipple, , no prob,and no flame damage to any thing else

If you get two rods, you can put one on each end of the jump leads,
and then each end of the bolt

be care full though, as when  it gets..White hot.. it will MELT  metal,!!!!
so just keep taking it off and on,
the rod will burn for the first few minutes, flame coming of it, untill you burned all the electolite out of it,

put some dark glasses on, then you will be able to see,

it really does glow WHITE HOT

Ps , was told this 30 odd years ago, when the old batt  terminals , the ones with a top hat connector, , [ useless, when old, ]
come off, with twisting to get the darn thing off,., new battery,!!

next dor  was an old Mechanic, in his 70,s, , and out he came with a bat terminal Mould,
put it on, got his leads out, and used the rod, to melt solder on to the post stump, and form a new post,
he told me  they also used them to take out rusty bolts,
have used it ever since,

Marcus

regards Marcus

[esxefi]

well if it doesn't work at least you will have a novel 1 bar electric fire,retro style made from gt6 parts ;D