Timer chain tensioner

[tom horse]

 g'day,

 I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine and need to change the timing chain tensioner. The outer split pin is impossible to get hold of as it's been cut too short. Is there any quick ways of getting to it or will I just have to presevere with the long nose pliers and what ever else I can try to get in there? The other option is to drill the rivets out and remove the anchor plate, which would then need rivetting back on.   Has anyone else came across this problem?

 

JMM

[Nick Jones]

IIRC there is no need to remove the pin or the plate, you can just open out the tensioner, pop it off the pin and withdraw.

How bad is it?  The replacements currently available are not well regarded and usual advice is to re-use unless really worn.  The other part of the problem is that the original chains were ground on the outside edge and thus fairly smooth whereas some of the modern replacements are not well finished and will chew their way through the tensioner.

Nick

[Hogie]

Hi Folks,

I've been assured by a friend at Moss that their tensioner is the same as the original.

The wear is caused by cheap chains. As Nick pointed out they are not finished to the same old standard.

However fret not - the German chain (I think it is IWIS) is very good. Moss sell a German chain but do not state who makes it.  My chain & tensioner are Moss items and have been going well now for at least 6 years.

Sadly the suppliers who sell the good chain also sell the cheap ones - Doh!!

Did Renold ever make the chains for the TR 4 pot engine.?

Example of the TR2/4A  https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr2-4a-1953-67.html

 

Roger

 

[JohnD]

Tom,

I echo Nick's caution!     Over on the TRR site a racing member had a new spring break up and ruin his engine recently.

Removing the pin that secures the spring is by pulling out the split pin that is deepest into the timing cover, as it lies on the bench.   That is at the front as it is mounted on the engine, so maybe you meant that when you said "outer".     It may help to remove the oil seal.    Through that openeing, grasp the head of the pin with needle-nosed pliers, pull and twist.   It's a tiny pin and will pull straight enough to come out!

[tom horse]

3 hours ago, JohnD said:

Tom,

I echo Nick's caution!     Over on the TRR site a racing member had a new spring break up and ruin his engine recently.

Removing the pin that secures the spring is by pulling out the split pin that is deepest into the timing cover, as it lies on the bench.   That is at the front as it is mounted on the engine, so maybe you meant that when you said "outer".     It may help to remove the oil seal.    Through that openeing, grasp the head of the pin with needle-nosed pliers, pull and twist.   It's a tiny pin and will pull straight enough to come out!

 I know all that but it's been cut so short you can't get enough of a grip to straighten the legs out. Which is strange when you compare it to all the other 'stuff' done to the engine during it's last rebuild. A shaped piece of feeler gauge used to try and mask a cracked head and block, no locking plate on the camshaft gear, shims under the rocker shaft to allow for the valve recession,  wrong bolts holding the cam gear on (too short)and so the list goes on. 

[tom horse]

14 hours ago, Nick Jones said:

IIRC there is no need to remove the pin or the plate, you can just open out the tensioner, pop it off the pin and withdraw.

I really want to change the split pin as I've found a shed load of bodges, bad workmanship, and mechanical malpractice, not just in the engine but the whole car. To the point where I don't trust this pin, it may well be weakened and just waiting to snap and drop out when the engine is at full chat.  I'd hate to destroy the rebuilt engine for the sake of a small split pin.

 

JMM