Pete Arnold
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Everything posted by Pete Arnold
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10295 wrote:Have discovered that my old TR7 took part some years ago driven by Jon Burridge....was wondering if she is still going and does anyone have any info on her? She was blue. Thank you... DVLA list it as currently "sorned" and still blue.
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Josh, PM sent. Cheers, Pete Arnold
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Uploading all your great RBRR pics
Pete Arnold replied to Keith's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Keith wrote:If you have any pics of the event that you'd like to share on the website we have a photo album here- http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/album/album.pl?album=rbrr/2014 Use your normal website login. Please don't post pic threads on the forum, the album keeps them together in a better format for the future. Cheers 8) K Well I've only been a CT member for 5 1/2 years and this is the first time I have realised that there is a photo section! So - better late than never - I've just uploaded a few shots I took on this year's Taith O Amgylch Cymru. -
8036 wrote:Hi can anyone please give me battery advice, been looking on ebay for a good battery for me 1968 Mk2 Vitesse there seems to be a few for sale, which would you choose? I have used Battery Megastore in the past and found their prices competitive and service excellent. Website - www.batterymegastore.co.uk At check out, to get 5% discount, enter code - 3CD3F3EC5A
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heraldcoupe wrote: Yes, it is. this is essentially how they changed between LHD and RHD configuration. Early cars (until early 1962) had locking doors on both sides, but they used an entirely different locks and handles, so a conversion by this route would be a lot more work than it might appear, Cheers, Bill. Thanks Bill, most interesting. So I assume, on my 1967 Vitesse, if I change the button to a locking barrel the passenger could then lock/unlock the door using a key? The advantage would be that the passenger would not have to wait for the driver to get in and reach across to unlock the door from the inside. Is it easy to do this conversion?
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Does anyone know if any of the various Herald/Vitesse models were fitted with exterior locking door handles on the passenger door? Is it possible to convert a non-locking one to a locking one by replacing the button with a key lock barrel?
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Another useful site is http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk
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Are those being sold on eBay any use? See item no: 230881276972
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Mick Dolphin has them on his list so drop him an email <spares@mickdolphin.co.uk> Good luck!
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Norm, Have a look at Herald/Vitesse forum posts under subject of "battery replacement" and now available to view on 3rd page with last post dated 6th January 2014. You will find several pieces of advice including mine where I say :- "I bought mine from Battery Megastore in November - excellent service with free next day delivery. http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk I actually bought a 60A/H battery (their part ref: 56069), for which I had to make longer clamping rods, but sizewise it fits my Vitesse a treat. If you do buy from them enter this code at checkout for 5% discount - 3CD3F3EC5A" Good hunting!
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I bought mine from Battery Megastore in November - excellent service with free next day delivery. www.batterymegastore.co.uk I actually bought a 60A/H battery (their part ref: 56069), for which I had to make longer clamping rods, but sizewise it fits my Vitesse a treat. If you do buy from them enter this code at checkout for 5% discount - 3CD3F3EC5A
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No problem Davemate, There's only one Brown/Green wire anyway. So size was of no importance as they say!!!!!! ;D
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Thanks Davemate, I was unable to be sure of the wire colours in your pics but your explanation makes perfect sense. You have confirmed that terminals WL and D (the latter being the one which is filed down) are connected to each other. This means that the guidance notes I was using are wrong, so if I'd followed them I might have wrecked the alternator!! And yes, I know about running a cable from alternator to starter solenoid. Thanks again.
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Thanks for the two replies but perhaps I didn't make myself clear. The guidance notes which I have read state: 1. Disconnect the Black wire from the terminal E and tape over its end. This disables the Control Box 2. Disconnect the browN/Green from terminal F. Disconnect the thin browN/Yellow wire from the terminal WL. Connect these two wires together. They control the ignition/charging indicator light. 3. Disconnect all remaining wires from: B (browN) and D (heavy browN/Yellow) [charging wire]. Connect all of these wires together with a suitable connector. 4. An effective connector can be made by stripping out the internals of an unused RB340 type regulator control box and soldering heavy gauge wire between terminals B and D and, separately between F and WL. This allows all the wires to be connected to their original terminals, thus retaining the original look. My point is that surely the two connections described in 2 & 3 above have to be kept separate from each other? But terminals D and WL appear to be joined, so how can they be used as described in 4? Still confused! :-/
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At the risk of asking what may have already been answered in earlier posts . . . I am looking at an alternator conversion for my MKI Vitesse and have gathered plenty of info already. In order to keep the "original look" I intend using an old RB340 voltage regulator (with the internals stripped out) as a connector box. Several sources advise that terminals D & B should be wired together internally and so should terminals WL & F. However terminals D & WL appear to be connected by the original in situ rivets and copper terminals. This seems a bit puzzling so all comments and/or advice would be welcome! :-/
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I acquired this alternator in a box of bits when I purchased my MkI Vitesse. As I am intending to convert the car from dynamo to alternator I wonder whether it is worth considering using this alternator for the car, although before doing so I would have to get it checked out electrically. Hopefully from my photos you can see that it is labelled "Lucas LRA444 Made in England" although the rear end is embossed "AC Delco Made in France"! There are a pair of screw type connections marked for + & - and a spade connector marked D+. My initial reaction is that the mounting points look nothing like correct for a Vitesse, so . . . . What vehicle was it fitted to? What is its output? Is it worth trying to use it? What brackets, and from whom, would I need? Basically any advice welcome - even if the reply is "bin it"!!!! :-/
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My Vitesse battery doesn't like the colder weather so I think it's time to change it. I believe it is a 36 or 39Ah battery but a bit more power for cold weather starting would be better. Searching online, I've found that I can easily fit a 45Ah battery. However, I think a 60Ah battery might physically fit (L 230 x W 170 x H 221mm) - the critical measurement being the 170mm width. I reckon it should just fit if I make up longer "holding rods" to cope with the greater width and height above that of my present battery. Has anyone fitted this (physical) size of battery in a Herald/Vitesse?
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There's a boot rack currently being offered on eBay - see #221313569562
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Thanks to all who those supplied the advice and photos. I managed to fit the seats successfully a couple of weeks ago and am now enjoying more comfortable driving. Mind you, Encom, if I'd had your drawing then it would have saved several trial and error fittings before the final bolting down! ;)
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At last I've managed to obtain a pair of MGF seats for my Vitesse saloon. As I understand it, from previous messages on this subject, I need to remove the runners before welding plates to the seat frames to be able to bolt onto the existing Vitesse runners. However I've spent a couple of unsuccessful hours this afternoon with a hammer, chisel and drill trying to work out how to separate the seat frames from their runners! Please could someone tell me how they come apart!!!! :-/
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I used to have a 1200 Herald with 4.1 diff which went very well but I hankered after something with less noise and lower engine revs at "high speed". I now have a Vitesse with OD and 3.63 diff (ex 1500 Spitfire) and am well satisfied as I can now cruise quite happily at 70mph. OK acceleration may suffer a little but I'm not a boy racer; more like an old boy who likes to be able to cruise comfortably when traffic allows!
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Many thanks to those who have replied. I've taken the car out this morning and (much to my relief) the overdrive still functions in 3rd/4th gears. However it does still function in 2nd gear as well - and I certainly do not intend trying it in reverse again after reading your advice!! Presumably I do need a new inhibitor switch, which both Canley & Rimmer have in stock, old part no 127380, now BAU1074. Am I correct in thinking that this has to be fitted from the top of the gearbox through the inside of the car rather than from underneath? I assume that in the meantime I can carry on driving the car without causing any damage,provided I use the overdrive as intended, until I get the new switch.
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Coming out of a roundabout in my MKI Vitesse today when I noticed that I had left overdrive on. Switched it off and the revs went up - but I was in 2nd gear! Funny, I thought it only worked in 3rd & 4th gears. Reached home and selected reverse to back into drive but all I got was a whirring sound (almost as though teeth were not quite meshing properly) and car would'nt move enough to get up slight slope into drive. Decided there must be a gearbox or clutch problem so drove car in forwards. Sat there telling wife, who was in garden, what had happened and tried reverse again. Worked fine so went back out to road, turned round and reversed in as normal - all seems ok now! Has anyone any idea if this is an indication of trouble looming and, if so, what? All sensible suggestions would be welcome.
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Did Triumph put any external stamping on their diffs to identify the ratio? I am asking because my MkI Vitesse has a 3.63 diff from a 1500 Spitfire and I am currently having the chassis changed. The donor chassis, which is from a 13/60 Herald, came with a diff which I presume is 3.89. I would really like to be able to confirm this so that I can decide whether or not to keep it as a spare. Thanks in advance for any advice, Pete
