Dannyb
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Everything posted by Dannyb
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Wow £69.95 that's very good. I have also used Watford Classics for other bits no problem at all.
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I think it will look better on the dash and easier to locate. But you will loose the steering lock.
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michael_charlton wrote:This is the ideal top for wedges...........even has a handle to take it off ;D http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROYAL-ALBERT-Old-Country-Roses-RARE-LARGE-CHEESE-DISH-FREE-UK-P-P-/350959130265?_trksid=p2054897.l4276 A bit too cheesy for me
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Thanks Bainzy, I think thats the one I will go for. It's the only mod I want to do before the RBRR.
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1381 wrote:On mine it was a stud that output 12v, in addition to the hole for the rectangular plastic plug that the original triumph loom had to plug into the alternator with. Both work at the same time so I just used the stud to run the extra wire from, but also kept the plug in as well. Don't know if all alternators have it but mine did. What was the alternator you used;
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Does it matter what way round. I know some say it's to stop whatever you have on it hiting you in the back of the head. But If you tie the luggage on correctly then that should not happen. I fitted mine with the lip at the back because I think it looks better. Anyway I've had it on over ten years and never carried anything on it. Mines bolted through the boot so if I ever decide on another respray I may not fit it again. When these racks are bought new do they come with instructions on which way round they should be fitted ?
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I wonder if the RBRR will miss Scotland in the future and go round the coast of Wales. Unless they want indipendance as well. Then we will have to use the Isle of White.
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Ebay is probably the cheapest way.
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Ebay is probably the cheapest way.
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junkuser wrote:As a heavy wire is being run from battery to lamp via relay for the switched side of the circuit, would it not be a good idea to do the same for the un-switched side to the lamp holder/plug? No point as the load will only be for the relays which is small
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This is a copy of an old thread when I had pump problems. I ordered a new pump from Rimmers for my 1500 1980 Spit. They sent me the older type with the straight lever with a note to remove the spacer block. I think these are the only pumps you can get now I did not notice the instruction and fitted it with the spacer. This caused me all sorts of problems to fuel starvation and when it broke down because all the fuel was sucked out of the float bowls it did not have the power to draw fuel to fill them up. So I had to poor petrol into both bowls to get it going. Removed the spacer,,,,,,never had a problem since.
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Who's got what to do for 2014?
Dannyb replied to AlanChatterton's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
the most important thing I have to do is send off the application as soon as the mag comes in the post. -
With the plastic floats you have to add/remove the washers under the needle valve to get the right gap
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forget the link above it don't work.
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There's a thread on the forum. search for threads older than 30 days for "Bonnet hinge modification" couple of good pictures there. or paste this little lot into your address bar.... http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://imageshack.us/a/img541/9779/507iq.jpg&imgrefurl=http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl%3Fm-1362756795/&usg=__H_-J-kJVdal7zrm9oRH1BF3A08c=&h=480&w=640&sz=47&hl=en&start=1&sig2=JlfKK--sYJfFNttSU0yRjA&zoom=1&tbnid=HAQpWP1W0ogbgM:&tbnh=103&tbnw=137&ei=GkM6Us_qM4OY0AXzwIHoBg&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dmodify%2Btriumph%2Bspitfire%2Bbonnet%2Bhinge%26safe%3Dactive%26hl%3Den-GB%26gbv%3D2%26tbm%3Disch&itbs=1&sa=X&ved=0CC4QrQMwAA
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most unusual cars used
Dannyb replied to Stuart Wilson's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
1684 wrote:Next you will be asking if a late MG Midget can enter. oops just saw the comment from Darren. For some reason my pc did not show all comments. I think if a car was manufactured as say a TVR or MG then no. kit cars are different, although they should use more than just the engine, they should share the same chassis. -
most unusual cars used
Dannyb replied to Stuart Wilson's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
Next you will be asking if a late MG Midget can enter. -
I had my interior lihts start doing that after messing around with the wiring above the passenger glovebox, If I pushed the loom up and down it caused the lights to go off/on , Turned out to be the bottom fuse, The C connector was a bit loose and needed bending to make a tighter fit with the fuse.
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When I got my spitfire 11 years ago it has halogens fitted with no relays. No problem as I selden went out at night and if I did it was not for lon. But when I entered the RBRR and adding extra spots I changed to relays. One for the headlights and the other for the spots. I could not believe the difference the relays made with a direct power source straight to the lights rather than going through the switch. At least I knew th switch was not going to burn out after 8 hrs or so continuous use.
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Thanks Harry, That's the only diagram that gets near the colours of the wires. Although the UK cars don't have the anti run on and hand brake switch. It turns out a bad connection on the bulb holder on the had brake warning light. I can't believe the way this is wired. They must have thought this one up on a Friday afternoon after a visit to the pub. Because I don't have a pdwa anymore I have just removed the bulb holder and put a link between the two bullet holders.
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Ok getting back to the colours of the wires on the oil warning light. There are 2 purple/black wires which are the earth and brown\white which is the live (connects to center contact.) No diagram I have looked at shows these colours.
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I have the bulb holder out at the moment through the centre dash so I can test where the live wire meets the lampholder and there is no voltage. I wanted to check the colours today but one thing led to another and I'm now back in work for the night shift. I'm going to have another go tomorrow when I get home.
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Yep done that. Put 12v on the bulb holder and it lights. If it comes to it I might take the ignition live from the unused brake warning light and connect it too the live wire of the oil warning light.
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Ther are no white wires at all on my bulb holder. Infact I now can't remember what colour the earth wire is as I'm at work. I will have to look in the morning when I get home. There seems to be so many different diagrams for the spit. I notice the US ones also had handbrake warning switch added.
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I forgot to say that some years ago I removed the PDWA and went back to single circuit brakes with a servo. The oil light has only stopped working in the last week. The side of the bulb that goes to the oil pressure switch is easy to test and that's ok. It's just knowing where the white\brown from the bulb goes. If it picks up the white at the ignition it must have a connector somewhere. Has anyone got a loom laying around in the garage that they can check.
