Dannyb
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Everything posted by Dannyb
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michael_charlton wrote: They can` t as the bearing runs on a separate race The stub axle can wear where the inner and outer bearings run Then tell me how one of my front hubs would not hold the bearing race. It would just fall out, and I could not get the bearing adjusted right because the whole thing just revolved including the race. Possibly caused by over tightening of the bearings throughout it's life. New hub fixed the problem.
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swap the discs over that will tell you if the hub is the problem. The hubs do wear inside where the bearing sit.
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This is my wiring . Might help
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Check the pressure from your petrol pump. I put a new mechanical pump on mine and it intermittently put out too much pressure.
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That's great to hear as at least you now know what was causing it.
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This is the culprit
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Yes mine was intermittent, Let me know how you got on. Where did you by the pump. Be interesting to see if it’s the same make. I’ll post a photo of mine to compare.
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I just took the pump apart, just to be nosy. Put it back together and tested it. It now reads 3.5 lbs. I won't trust this one again. Spare parts bin I think.
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It's a bugger, you expect a new pump from Rimmers would work ok. Wished I had tested it before I fitted it.
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[Sorry, link no longer available] This is my post on the subject. plenty of info from all sources. worth a read
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What is the ideal pressure for a standard HS4 set up.
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If I go down the route of a regulator I mat as well get an electric pump.
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I have been having problems with intermittent carb flooding ever since the RBRR. At that time it was the front float bowl overflowing. The fix was to remove the gross jet and fit a normal needle valve. Now I notice the rear float bowl is flooding, so I ordered two new needle valves and changed them in both bowls. While I had the petrol pipe off I thought I would check the pressure from the pump which was a new one fitted just before the RBRR Well my pressure gauge hit the max 7lbs. So it looks like the pressure relief valve is faulty. Fitted the spare and that shows 3ibs pressure. Don't suppose they are fixable but I will take it apart to have a look.
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I'm sure it's not tappered for what I remember when I had mine out.
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Got Mine yesterday (car25) well pleased. it was my first one and hope to get another next year. It's now hangging on a hook from a beam in the kitchen.
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Mine was not as bad as that and gave a lot of slack in the peddle, It's surprising how much difference a little wear makes at one end to the amount of travel at the other end I did re-drill mine and made bigger clevis pin. Yours may need a new arm or welding up and re drilling.
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That's right had to use a few extra washers for packing. Then had to tilt the lot backwards 1/8" as it was too near the window frame at the top. Once that was done I had to then alter the angle to get the Qlight inwards at the top to be snug to the rubber and not stick out past the front screen alignment.
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That's right had to use a few extra washers for packing. Then had to tilt the lot backwards 1/8" as it was too near the window frame at the top. Once that was done I had to then alter the angle to get the Qlight inwards at the top to be snug to the rubber and not stick out past the front screen alignment.
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Mike, I had the same problem when converting my spity with GT6 mk3 Qlights. The glass popped out of the runners. Can't remember what caused it but many hours of fiddling cured it. I just had to concentrate on where the Qlight meets the window frame but you also have the rear to worry about which I would expect makes it more tricky. In the end itw as well worth the mod on the spitty as it held the glass ridged and because of the slight curve made yhe soft top a better fit. Good luck
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Mike, I had the same problem when converting my spity with GT6 mk3 Qlights. The glass popped out of the runners. Can't remember what caused it but many hours of fiddling cured it. I just had to concentrate on where the Qlight meets the window frame but you also have the rear to worry about which I would expect makes it more tricky. In the end itw as well worth the mod on the spitty as it held the glass ridged and because of the slight curve made yhe soft top a better fit. Good luck
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Not got ant temperature reading on the adjustable stat. But the temperature gauge when running with the mechanical fan showed just below middle (normal) and in heavy traffic would rise to normal but no higher. With the removed and the electric fan and switch it would still be just below normal while moving but in traffic it would rise to just under 3/4 before it kicked in and it would struggle to tick over until the temperature returned to normal. Also the fan kept running until the gauge got to below the normal mark. I was thinking about this and the thermostat opens at 82 C to let water flow from the radiator to cool the engine. What I will do is take the temperature with a themometer at normal and see what that reads.
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I have since taken out the temperature censor switch as I found it was switching on a bit later than I wanted. I could not find a suitable 3/8 bsp switch with a slightly lower operating temperature. So I have fitted a Kenlow adjustable switch I had laying around. This has been adjusted so the engine temperature will not rise above normal and keeps it spot on in heavy traffic. I have fitted it in the thermostat housing with 3/8 bsp to 12mm compression. Because the censor bulb was 11mm I used gasket sealer with the O'ring to make sure it was watertight.
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Yep I think I have confused myself. When I rebuilt the engine I set the timing at 10 BTDC. and although it ran ok always thought it could be a bit more lively. So I decided to advance the ignition a bit until I get pinking and then go back a couple of degrees. For some reason I expected the timing to go towards ATDC. But when I thought about it last night advancing the ignition makes the spark earlier in the compression stroke and of course ignites just after TDC. I have just been out for a test drive and it has improved after keep stopping and moving the dizzy clockwise a bit at the time, Not had any knocking going up hill. Just going to check with the timing light where the marks are at the moment.
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Just thought I would put my old points back in. Done that adjusted all ok starts fine but again turning the dizzy clockwise the timing marks move towards retarding the engine although the revs go up. Is there something wrong with the timing gun ?
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I thought I would advance my ignition a little and take it for a drive to make sure it wasn't pinking. But I have now confused myself. I turned the dizzy clockwise and watched my timing light. To my surprise the mark on the pully moved the the left of TDC mark making it more retarded. To advance the ignition I had to move the dizzy anti clockwise. Also the more retarded the higher the revs. This seems all back to front to me. or am I retarded. It's a normal setup with the electronic pickup instead of points.
