Dannyb
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Everything posted by Dannyb
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Alex wrote: Danny I would have expected you to get more ...do you have overdrive? what engine do you have etc? :-/ Your mpg is very close to the gt6's figures.....mine has always got at least 40+ mpg on a rbrr.Ask anyone who knows me or my car and they'll tell you I like to work it. 1500 with overdrive. About 6,000 on a recon engine. I did drive it harder than it's probably driven before. + how accurate is the speedo/trip counter ?......I'll have to work out what speed I should be doing at 3,000 reves in O/D. I did work it out once but have since changed from 165x80 tyre to 175x70 tires which make about an inch shorter in diameter. Plugs were a light brown hich I checked at Lands End. And suspect it may run a little lean at high speed. AAQ needles fitted.
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Go for the stainless steel ones. I found the chrome ones go rusty faily quick
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Each stonegaurd comes with three clips. Take off the crome surround or on the mk4 & 1500 the cowl. And these clips go under the three scres that hold the headlight unit. replace the surround and you have the three clips pocking through. These wil hold the stone guard. You may have to bend them a bit. easy to fit.
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I know if I stick to 60mph on motorway I will get 45 MPG but on the RBRR I was not hanging around so I'm pleased with what it did.
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This is list I posted some time ago with none return valves to fit spit 1500..... AC DELCO (DELPHI): X 1 AC DELCO (DELPHI): X 1-K ALCO: SP-809 ALCO: SP-815 AP FILTERS: AP 1023 AP FILTERS: AP 1024 AP LOCKHEED: LK-1023 AP LOCKHEED: LK-1024 BOSCH: 0 451 103 267 CHAMPION: D 102 CLEAN: DO 279 COOPERS: Z 93 COOPERS: Z 93 K CROSLAND: 595 CROSLAND: 670 DELPHI: FX0009 DONIT: 43.10.16 FIAAM: FT 4538 FIAAM: FT 5088 FILTRON: OP 580/4 FRAD: 26.43.09/110 FRAM: PH-2869 FRAM: PH-2969 FRAM: PH-922 A GKN MASTERPARTS: MOF 8 X GKN MASTERPARTS: MOF 9 X GREYFRIARS: 915 S HALFORDS: HOF209 KNECHT (MAHLE): OC 19 LUCAS (LUCAS-TRW): EDL 174 MANN-FILTER: W 713/14 MFI: W 920/26 M-FILTER: MH 306 M-FILTER: MH 349 MANNOL SM 5003 MOTAQUIP AAPCO: VFL 126 MOTAQUIP AAPCO: VFL 134 MOTORCRAFT: EFL 075 MOTORCRAFT: EFL 075 D MOTRIO: 86 71 002 338 ORTURBO: WM 80.100/3 P.B.R.: BC-1107 POWERTRAIN: PMFL 23 PUROLATOR: L17295 PUROLATOR: MF-63003 A PUROLATOR: MFF-65300 A SAVARA: 9.28.492.17 SAVARA: SO 473 SAVARA: SO 492 SCHUPP / SF FILTER: SP 4122
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Car 25 Spitfire 1500..... 2284 miles clocked 67.4 gallons used. First 319 miles with the front float bowl flooding and giving those behind me plenty of petrol fumes, she was doing 26.6 MPG, After fixing she did 35.5 MPG. Overall she did 34 MPG.
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Use a rubber one
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How long was it on the rolling road for. Do you know what needles you have fitted.
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No1 look like fused relays....probably for the headlights
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1936 wrote:Hello, I'm thinking of buying a compression tester but wouldn't use it very often, are the cheapy ones any good for a skinflint infrequent user? Something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PETROL-ENGINE-AUTOMOTIVE-COMPRESSION-TESTER-TOOL-KIT-/400303386303?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item5d33f0eebf I have the same one as that. Works a treat. I also found it fairly accurate when testing a motorbike with a known compression.
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Spitfire2500 wrote:Interesting -- I'll check the wheels I have for the Saloon. Thought they were Wellers but they could very well be Mangels. They look pretty much identical to those on your Spit. Probably academic since I want to put S alloys on it if/when it ever makes it out of the garage... :X Pic of Saloon (with Weller/Mangel wheels on) before I cut the N/S front wing and sills off -- and stopped :B Yes the are Mangel's...I have a set on my spit with the wire baskets.
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Just remembered....check the slave is pushed forward as far as possible then tighten the securing bolt. What I did with mine was to connect a extnsion copper pipe from the slave bleed hole to the engine compartment with a bleed nipple on the end so in future it can be bled easily from under the bonnet.
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First of all check the datum pin and arms for wear. This is the bit where the peddle fixes to the slave piston rod. The smallest bit of wear will mean a lot of movement at the peddle before the clutch starts to engage. Then if you need to bleed the system take the H frame (dash support) out and remove the tunnel.
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perhaps Triumph owners are all a bit twisted
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You should not use them as handles. Always lift at the wheel arch and at the center of the bonnet .
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My head and block have been skimmed and spacers put under the pedestals to get the right geometry. I will first try using the just the silocon gasket but I think I'm going to get tappet knock on the cover.
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Just got a silicon rocker cover gasket from TSSC, but it’s a lot thinner than I thought it would be. Considering that I had to grind some of the inside of the cover to clear the tappets whilst using the cork gasket, I know I’m going to have trouble using the thin silicon one. I think I may stick a new cork gasket on and then stick the silicon one onto that. This way I will still have the benefits of the silicon against the block and not have to change gaskets every time I take the rocker cover off.
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You can buy the electronic flasher unit for the LED bulbs. But don't forget the change the warning light on the dash to LED or it won't work. I know.
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Gear leaver and switch together must be better than column mounted switch. Although I can see the benefits of a warning light which would save looking down at the gearlever to see if it's in or out. I may consider adding a light on the dash.
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Cold chisel and club hammer never fails.
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Thanks guys for your advice. I have already mounted the rad in the upright position and just got to fit the hoses and the sandwich plate.
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I'm about to fit my oil cooler to my 1500. It has a built in thermostat to the sandwich plate. Am I right in thinking that oil will trickle feed around the cooler before the oil gets to the tempereature when the valve opens. The reason is if it don't, then after fitting it will not fill with oil until it gets hot and then will need topping up.
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No. They have different input shaft lengths
