Saltddirk

:( despite having owned a Mk3 for over 20 years I have never driven one, not at least with the engine running... only behind a towrope. the car was a restoration project that i never came round to finish. Mine originally had a 1147. and here lies the other problem / dilemma. I bought this engine as a quick way out to have a good running car (still took me 5 years but that's another story) the original engine was tired and at least needed new thrust washers but has always been reliable so I now have 2 tired engines, I am debating to get the original going again first while i keep the 1300 lump in the car for now, it is still mobile albeit with a thirst for oil. and then swap out the fresh engine to give this one his go, or do i go straight with the rejuvenating of the 1300? both have merits but both will cost money.... for now i'm thinking of going for the 1300 first, who knows that with a milder cam i might actually like it better, the head has been breathed upon, so it should go better than a standard one and have more poneys than my mk2 will ever have.... D

:( despite having owned a Mk3 for over 20 years I have never driven one, not at least with the engine running... only behind a towrope. the car was a restoration project that i never came round to finish. Mine originally had a 1147. and here lies the other problem / dilemma. I bought this engine as a quick way out to have a good running car (still took me 5 years but that's another story) the original engine was tired and at least needed new thrust washers but has always been reliable so I now have 2 tired engines, I am debating to get the original going again first while i keep the 1300 lump in the car for now, it is still mobile albeit with a thirst for oil. and then swap out the fresh engine to give this one his go, or do i go straight with the rejuvenating of the 1300? both have merits but both will cost money.... for now i'm thinking of going for the 1300 first, who knows that with a milder cam i might actually like it better, the head has been breathed upon, so it should go better than a standard one and have more poneys than my mk2 will ever have.... D

he really enjoys this you know!

Rob,  But would that not shift max BHP again into the higher regions whereas I would want it more readily available.? The Mk3 profile is generally considered a good all-rounder. It's not a screamer but it does pick up a bit as you rev it - especially on a Mk2 Spitfire (same cam but on an 1147 with 4-2-1 straight-through exhaust). Max BHP is up around 5000 or 5500 RPM (I don't have the figures to hand) so readily accessible on a small-bearing 1300. Whether you'd want to rev a DG lump that high depends how well it's been built. However, it's not a wild cam and you do still get decent torque low down. Thanks Rob, I'll start with dismantling the engine and see what is really in there, and yes all depend on how well it was build. low down torque sounds marvelous. D

Rob,  But would that not shift max BHP again into the higher regions whereas I would want it more readily available.? The Mk3 profile is generally considered a good all-rounder. It's not a screamer but it does pick up a bit as you rev it - especially on a Mk2 Spitfire (same cam but on an 1147 with 4-2-1 straight-through exhaust). Max BHP is up around 5000 or 5500 RPM (I don't have the figures to hand) so readily accessible on a small-bearing 1300. Whether you'd want to rev a DG lump that high depends how well it's been built. However, it's not a wild cam and you do still get decent torque low down. Thanks Rob, I'll start with dismantling the engine and see what is really in there, and yes all depend on how well it was build. low down torque sounds marvelous. D

bummer but still good passes to climb! better safe than sorry I would think...

bummer but still good passes to climb! better safe than sorry I would think...

Shaun on his favorite seat, barstool excepted

oouch you naughty one! I would think that that would be overcamming my engine! only marginally related thread drift, How did yours go up the Stelvio last month? that was where we were struggling, or falling flat in 3rd, or reving the T*Ts out of her in second (refering to the engine not SWMBO) , do you run the standard diff? 

oouch you naughty one! I would think that that would be overcamming my engine! only marginally related thread drift, How did yours go up the Stelvio last month? that was where we were struggling, or falling flat in 3rd, or reving the T*Ts out of her in second (refering to the engine not SWMBO) , do you run the standard diff? 

Rob,  But would that not shift max BHP again into the higher regions whereas I would want it more readily available.? I'll see if  I can find a cam spec for the GT6 (without having to refer to Mr Gareth list, for whom all cams are rubbish except the ones he makes :) )

Rob,  But would that not shift max BHP again into the higher regions whereas I would want it more readily available.? I'll see if  I can find a cam spec for the GT6 (without having to refer to Mr Gareth list, for whom all cams are rubbish except the ones he makes :) )

Which one you went fore mike? TRIS/280/405 ph2 or TRIS/260/375 ph1 ? (or you naughty old boy and went for the full monty ph27.5 ? )  it's hard to admit but I bought the wrong engine with the power way too high up in the powerband. Actually the only thing I really like and will miss is that lumpy idle, love the sound of it, and the short spinning noise you get the moment you clutch before the whole orchestra comes on again. Na thats not all true, it is a lovely engine, rev's like hell and sound good (SWMBO doesnt think so) but I have to admit that the time I spend enjoying to rev the hell out of her is way outstripped by the time I would be using it cruising and touring so here we are.... Shall have to decide fast before Clive pipes up and shouts: put a Zetec in, and a subaru Diff, and ....! (and before brexit slams another 25% on top of it :( )  

Which one you went fore mike? TRIS/280/405 ph2 or TRIS/260/375 ph1 ? (or you naughty old boy and went for the full monty ph27.5 ? )  it's hard to admit but I bought the wrong engine with the power way too high up in the powerband. Actually the only thing I really like and will miss is that lumpy idle, love the sound of it, and the short spinning noise you get the moment you clutch before the whole orchestra comes on again. Na thats not all true, it is a lovely engine, rev's like hell and sound good (SWMBO doesnt think so) but I have to admit that the time I spend enjoying to rev the hell out of her is way outstripped by the time I would be using it cruising and touring so here we are.... Shall have to decide fast before Clive pipes up and shouts: put a Zetec in, and a subaru Diff, and ....! (and before brexit slams another 25% on top of it :( )  

On long events (10CR for example)I take what I think is most commonly likely to break, what you would be prepared to fix by the side of the road, and what is possible to carry for failures that would be difficult for me or a local garage to fix without a specific part; a Spitfire driveshaft for example.  My boot was literally full of tools and spares on the recent 10CR. It gave me a measure of confidence that I had most things I'd need. It was no trouble: the boot wasn't being used for anything else and the weight was not noticeable. For "normal" use I just have fuses, fanbelt, oil/water/brake fluid, plugs, toolroll, etc. LOL, Shaun and I did joke about fitting a towbar. As Mike says, take what you are prepared to change roadside, and what you can change yourself. No use in bringing a rocker shaft if you have to go to your specialist garage to set the clearances. Except the waterpump which is a big chunk all other items are quite small, they fitted in a holdall. Tools were probably more volumenous, and i did bring my "testing" pack : carburettor balancing, colortune, vacuum gauge, multimeter and strobe... but then because they also fit in a dedicated case.  Being stranded last month for what I thought was only a cap and a red rotor ( turned out that there was more wrong with the engine and we would not have completed the trip anyway) and being recovered for what cost the insurance cy possibly upwards of 2000 GBP felt so stupid.  the 10CR (and the RBRR) is such a nice event and we were looking forward to it to do the drive again that it feels like a little trade off to be able to change socks only twice for the added security of being able to continue.  Dirk

Nuala, Mike, Thanks, from reading about cam profiles, lobe spacing, valve bounce, advance, overlap, acceleration, velocity, jerk.... my head's hurting. The 1500 being a longer stroke engine than the 1300, so i would assume that the way to fill the cylinder is different and thus that would make the cam specifications or needs different. Or the mk3 cam was spot on for both? I would not know. I do gather (now) that small differences in profile can make a huge difference in performance, at least if the sales literature is to be believed, and the basic idea for a roadcam is that you do not need to have too long durations, high lift preferred for better breathing and a quick profile to have better flow as early on as possible..... Dirk 

Nuala, Mike, Thanks, from reading about cam profiles, lobe spacing, valve bounce, advance, overlap, acceleration, velocity, jerk.... my head's hurting. The 1500 being a longer stroke engine than the 1300, so i would assume that the way to fill the cylinder is different and thus that would make the cam specifications or needs different. Or the mk3 cam was spot on for both? I would not know. I do gather (now) that small differences in profile can make a huge difference in performance, at least if the sales literature is to be believed, and the basic idea for a roadcam is that you do not need to have too long durations, high lift preferred for better breathing and a quick profile to have better flow as early on as possible..... Dirk 

After the 10CR ( and even before) the spit engine is due for a rework I would say. She's using about as much oil as Broomey on a saturday night which would indicate at least a new set of scrapers and rings. We had no time to dismantle the engine before but when replacing the headgasket noticed that the cam followers were shot, and at least one cam on #2 had rounded off enough to notice through the hole. People in the know tell me that this is fairly common lot for a high lift wild cam.  It would make sense then to replace the camshaft, followers and rings as a minimum to get the engine in condition again. Now for the following. The engine is a 1300 ( DG prefix, HE suffix) Toledo(?) engine worked over by jigsaw which i bought off Rob S a few years ago when he went the kent route, as far as I can tell the head had been flowed, pistons seem to be normal at +40 oversize. Not sure what else was done but I imagine a wild camshaft has been fitted. She is happy to rev but rather gutless in the lower powerband. It's a nice engine but not what i need. I do welcome the power increase but would have loved a bit more torque for daily use (and to storm the alpine passes). so here we go See that I have absolutely no knowledge of what makes a camshaft tick (trawling the internet now to do my homework) the question is what Camshaft would I need?  Talking to a few on the 10CR a standard Mk3 camshaft was recommended? Opinions? Dirk  

After the 10CR ( and even before) the spit engine is due for a rework I would say. She's using about as much oil as Broomey on a saturday night which would indicate at least a new set of scrapers and rings. We had no time to dismantle the engine before but when replacing the headgasket noticed that the cam followers were shot, and at least one cam on #2 had rounded off enough to notice through the hole. People in the know tell me that this is fairly common lot for a high lift wild cam.  It would make sense then to replace the camshaft, followers and rings as a minimum to get the engine in condition again. Now for the following. The engine is a 1300 ( DG prefix, HE suffix) Toledo(?) engine worked over by jigsaw which i bought off Rob S a few years ago when he went the kent route, as far as I can tell the head had been flowed, pistons seem to be normal at +40 oversize. Not sure what else was done but I imagine a wild camshaft has been fitted. She is happy to rev but rather gutless in the lower powerband. It's a nice engine but not what i need. I do welcome the power increase but would have loved a bit more torque for daily use (and to storm the alpine passes). so here we go See that I have absolutely no knowledge of what makes a camshaft tick (trawling the internet now to do my homework) the question is what Camshaft would I need?  Talking to a few on the 10CR a standard Mk3 camshaft was recommended? Opinions? Dirk  

for this 10CR I had packed. spare dizzy with cap rotor and condensor again as extra ( not surprisingly since my adventures in Glencoe, and after repair 10 miles from home Shaun broke down again with the accuspark dizzy.) So in went the old and the original delco one came as spare. Fuelpump, water pump complete. IMO roadside repairs need to be swap and go, can not see me rebuilding a waterpump with new bearings or change out a rockershaft 02 AM in a parkinglot up north while it is pissing down ( dof my hat to ^^^ ;) ) Spare brake or clutch master cylinder, spare rear brake cylinder plus seals etc to rebuild if needed fan belt electrical bits and bobs, flasher unit, relay, connectors,.... fuses! assortment of springs and rubber bands ( Renown broke down on 2 successive RBRR when the accelerator return spring snapped)  spark plugs, leads I had a set of F/W bearings but not sure if I would have used them liquid gaskets and assorted hoses. assorted carburettor parts, mainly because I had a lot of items lying around from the carburettor rebuild, shoved them in a bag, might come in handy.... Spare Coil. actually the spare one was taped to the installed one (but the real reason it was there is that I left it after faultfinding in Glencoe, and it seemed as good a place to stow it as any) Pouch with assorted bolts nuts washers, .... Jumpstart pack Dirk

just got a message from Booking.com that they have upgraded us to a different hotel in Buderz, now we are supposed to be at the schloss hotel dorfinger..... it is perhaps better, for sure more expensive but do we really want to stay on our own and miss out on the fun? We have also just changed to a different hotel nearer to Sedan, not the castle hotel, ;)  D

Would do as Mike says, get the multi meter out and make yourself a diagram of your ignition switch contactors, it would seem that you have a different switch.  find with wire is the feed, then which one connects up to the feed when On, and the last one which one is only temporary life when you turn to the "start" position. Some of the switches have a position for accessories, so you could leave the side lights on but not having the coil live as an example.  D

Thanks Dave  

Hi, Dont have my stickers yet, I use magnetic backing to stick them on, Would anybody have the dimensions so I can prepare the film ....   Cheerz D

Thanks Howard for the files, Worked a charm with OsmAnd+ D