Saltddirk

some more  

Hello Pete, I have done about 10000 miles max with the engine, 2 10CR's plus a trip to scotland and a few local outings. Rob (the previous owner) I'm not sure how much he has done with the engine, guess not more than 10000 himself. I'll try to repost the pictures Dirk

Hello Pete, I have done about 10000 miles max with the engine, 2 10CR's plus a trip to scotland and a few local outings. Rob (the previous owner) I'm not sure how much he has done with the engine, guess not more than 10000 himself. I'll try to repost the pictures Dirk

thanks Dale, I'll check Canleys It would seem that this engine is already at 040, and i was not planning to go any further, as you say it is not really recommendable to put liners in, IMO the strenght is gone from the block, and a replacement block would be the cheaper option.... First waiting from the verdict from the workshop, lets hope it's only needing a hone.... D

From the BL manual for the Mk4 it would seem that they recommend only a +20 overbore for the cylinders,....? I believe mine is a +40 already or am I seeing this wrong. The only changes in the production line seem to have happened at Engine nr 25000.   

Thanks Tim, I have all the manuals from Steve to go through,  This is what i have found so far in the HAynes manual         

thanks Steve, Very welcome! BR Dirk

@rob, Thanks, i'll look for a mk 4 WSM then @colin and Clive 40 gbp a pot is indeed what i expect to pay. The situation is slightly different here in Belgium, we do not have that many workshops willing to do classic car engine work except if you pay the dreaded TR tax on top, but the shop i'm using is a one man shop nearing retirement and he is very reasonable in his prices.  Dirk

hullo, The engine of our Mk2 Spit did not survive the 10CR :( We have it now dismantled to show all the horrors: Cam lobes worn, followers (new before the 10CR) ready for junk, Piston with a chunk missing and one cracked..... Amazing that we still managed to get to Home  The block is relatively un-damaged as seems the crank. The block is now with the engine workshop for measurements and eventually a re-bore ( +40 already) It would seem that the engine is a toledo engine with a DG prefix, HE suffix. Would anybody know if the principal dimensions to give to the workshop are the same as a Spitfire 1300 engine or better even have a scan of the pages from the workshop manual BR Dirk

Jason, Thanks for assisting! I must say it was less stressful than 2 years ago when the system hung while i tried to make a payment, only to find out that it was our side that had dumped the connection. So, thanks again for having facilitated the 2 step entry for me.... and indeed 150+ and counting, Derreck would be very chuffed, now let see that we can update the charity records too... Dirk

and for some further absolute useless information,  When calling somebody out at Knebworth you have the most heads turning when you ask for: chris 18 david 13 andrew 12 john 11 ian 10 paul 10 rob 9 james 8 matt 8 richard 8 dave 7 martin 7 Not bad, here at work you cover nearly everybody with Ahmed, mohamed, moustafa or mahmud Yes I know, i'll get my coat, slow day.... D

have you ever now? Still, did you notice that your signature line is now covering more space that the "R***sh" you speak D

Sorry, no, can't count up to 8 🙄 and the 2500 / 2000 are also mixed up. so here is a new attempt, i now have 148 entries, but there are only 147 cars, one is thus playing in both fields...... spitfire 19 GT6 12 Herald 8 2500 24 2000 16 1500 2 dolomite 14 stag 14 toledo 1 vitesse 5 TR8 1 TR7 9 TR6 8 TR5 2 TR4 7 TR3 2 standard 10 1 gnat 2 Gloria 1   bodystyles: estate 6 Saloon 63 convertible 54 fixed head 2 coupe 13 surrey  7 hardtop 2 other 3

try squirting some brake cleaner or eazy start round the carburettors, but not in them. If you get a cough and a few bangs it would indicate that there is a leak and you have just sucked in the explosive mixture that way. Other thing to do is to disconnect the blow-by hoses or what-you-call-them from the rocker cover and plug the entrances to the carburettors. That should eliminate the possibly leaning of your mixture before it enters the engine dirk

Spitfire 19 GT6 12 Herald 8 2500 21 2000 7 1500 2 dolomite 14 stag 14 toledo 1 vitesse 4 TR7 9 TR6 7 TR5 2 TR4 8 TR3 2 standard 10 1 gnat 2 Gloria 1   versions: estate 6 Saloon 60 convertible 53 fixed head 2 coupe 13 surrey  7 hardtop 2 other 3 I could be off by a few, but think i have them all Dirk

The Gloria is slow enough but now at least we have an OD box, so should be able to keep up, well downhill at least

No reports of website crashes! Excellent Thanks Tim and Jason for a bit of assistance, helps also to be up and working for what is 4 AM for your guys. Seems that we'll not be the only prewar car.... David Pearson has entered a Gnat, I was going to wisecrack about the size of the thing compared with, aheum, when I noticed that it is actually listed as being driven by Clair and Becky, .... Dirk For those who have not seen a gnat before, here is my friend roger's car, since sold. Roomey it isnt

Tim, Keith,.... It would perhaps be good to remind people how to register on the website and how to make sure their details are correct, I can see it saving a lot of hassle coming saturday morning. Just tried to see if my info was up to date and the process was far from clear or intuitive.  

OK, Now it just gets harder, What time do the inscriptions open? As Howard I work East of your lot and Weekend is working days for me. I'm sitting in front of my computer for most of the day but have not always time to try and get my entry in. Additional issue is that I can not log into CT online payment from here, our "fire Wall" "proxy deal to keep us straight and not wandering into YouTube and Bored Panda sites" simply does not allow it. If we are going the same route again I will have again to rope in the help of Clive or other club member. Something I am them eternally grateful for but not what I prefer to do. I imagine that the server crash occures because of too many pulls on the database at the same time with all the difficulties that engenders, plus the linking up and coordinating with the external payment sites. Why not have the form available online to be completed offline first and then submitted to CT either on the website or a dedicated email address. The club then can still select at random the entries to be processed in the system and send out the calls for payment when accepted. No entry is valid without payment so it is already a good sifting the greedy from the hopeful and by putting a time limit on let say of 24H or your slot comes available to somebody else it would simplify the administrators task also. It might be too late in the game now to change the approach but depending on the "success" of this year stampede (or not) and crashes it might well be worth looking into for the next few. Still, count me in for this year, the SX has a brand new radiator and is getting an OD gearbox so I'm very much hoping to be the first one to achive a RBRR in a pre-war. We have unfinished business! D

Pete, Am thinking same here. From what I learned so far it seems to be a good compromise. I have one more outing planned for the Spit this season, then it will be engine out for the rebuild.  

Pete, Am thinking same here. From what I learned so far it seems to be a good compromise. I have one more outing planned for the Spit this season, then it will be engine out for the rebuild.  

In the days before politically correctness set in stating that vaseline cured a squeak would have triggered some witty response. 🤣 not allowed to say so but life is certainly duller now. Back on topic, good on ya !

The letters on the control box should be seen as to what connect to it. D is the feed from the dynamo, it should be the biggest wire, normally brown/ green , brown or yellow ( color code changed a bit over the years). When your generator starts spinning the armature starts rotating between 2 magnets. This is generating a current which is harvested at D F goes to the field windings, it is this wire that carries the current to engergise the coils in the magnets and thus provide the magnetic field that  will generate the output. It is the smaller of the wires and normally yellow/ brown. A is the regulated output and connects to the Ampmeter (if there is one) and then through to the starter solenoid and Battery. A carries all the loads to and from the battery. There is no fuse in this circuit, ie it is always life as soon as the battery is connected.  A1 is also a regulated output but only carries the loads to the ignition switch and the lighting switch. A3 also connects up to the ignition switch, but on the return side, ie is only live when the ignition is on. Where A and A1 can be seen as outputs from the regulator/ Dynamo, A3 can be seen as input for the other circuits A4 is a fused spur on A3, ie it is only live when A3 is live and is where all your auxilliary circuits would be hooked up to.  if there is a WL terminal that is where the warning light is hooked up to. if there is none the yellow from the WL should be connected to D. This only when you are still using a Dynamo, not when you are using an Alternator The warning light would normally get a 12 V input from the ignition switch (white wire) and then connect up to the generator output (originally also yellow) . With the generator stationary and thus no output this terminal is earthed, so the current would flow from the battery to the ignition switch and then through the lamp to earth, as a result the lamp lights up. As soon as the generator starts spinning there is a current generated and the terminal not longer is earthed but now carries voltage, the voltage across the lamp slowly drops until it reaches 12 volt and with the same voltage each side the lamp goes out. If the dynamo has been replaced with an alternator then the regulator is effectively redundant, as the voltage is regulated inside the alternator and not by the control box. In that case the warning light should be connected direct to the small spade terminal on the Alternator ( or spliced to it) Principle is the same but here the small terminal carries the voltage sensing which is used internally to produce the 12 volts.  In Lucas speak  Brown would be current supply and feed to all circuits, Blue would be head lamp circuit, Red would be tail  and side lights circuit, white ignition, Purple would be all these circuits fed from fuse A2 on the control box and green all those Auxilliary circuits fed from A4, yellow as said before for the generator wiring and Black for the earth returns. However over the years with the circuits becoming more complicated the distinctions became vague. and several owners and wanabe car electricians later you can not longer trust the simple logic, better is to get your multimeter out and check where the wires connect up to. D    

hi Tim, uprated to 3.61 as yours, that's why i need the low end grunt How do i get around in fitting a TR5 cam? hacking the last 4 inches off? 😜 Which cam replicates that profile? @ Iain, I found a manufacturer close to where i used to live, Catcam's. They seem to sell in UK as well, although the uk website is not updated and the general .com one doesnt list triumphs. I planned to go and discuss with them. If I would decide to go with one of theirs I will surely ask what kind of machinery they use, not sure if I go with them though, if you stay with a main manufacturer, piper cams, kent cams etc they have the client and knowledge and their profiles have been used by (a lot ) others so might be a safer bet. D

hi Tim, uprated to 3.61 as yours, that's why i need the low end grunt How do i get around in fitting a TR5 cam? hacking the last 4 inches off? 😜 Which cam replicates that profile? @ Iain, I found a manufacturer close to where i used to live, Catcam's. They seem to sell in UK as well, although the uk website is not updated and the general .com one doesnt list triumphs. I planned to go and discuss with them. If I would decide to go with one of theirs I will surely ask what kind of machinery they use, not sure if I go with them though, if you stay with a main manufacturer, piper cams, kent cams etc they have the client and knowledge and their profiles have been used by (a lot ) others so might be a safer bet. D