garyf
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Everything posted by garyf
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Finally got round to fitting the new Pump to PRV hose tonight and also changed the Fuel filter and a couple of the Low Pressure Hoses too, I had to buy a 3/8" BSP Elbow to fit on the PRV as the Crimped Elbow on the new Pipe wasn't in the right position and I didn't want to Strain anything A few Pics, will change the front one onto the Metering Unit on Saturday then check for any leaks! Hopefully I will get it all ready for Sunday and Drive it Day?
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You are not alone Stu, it happens to me all the time ! [/quote] Me Too!
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Did a bit more this afternoon before the Snow Came!! Changed both Steering rack Gaitors and started to refit the Pulley and Damper A few Photo's? The nearside Gaiter was a pain to fit till I decided to Soften it up in some Hot water for ten minutes Managed to squeeze it on then. Off to Newark Autojumble tomorrow, hopefully I'll be back in time to finish off the Fan & Rad? Need it ready for Drive it day!
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Jon Yes Lucas 22 D6, Part Number 41219B for A TR5. According to my Haynes manual maximum advance 12 Degree's for the Early type and 16 Degrees at 4,000 RPM, for the later versions. At 2,000 RPM max 6 Degree's early Max 8 Degree's for the later version. No Vacuum advance on the 5 either? If you have carbs fitted maybe A vacuum advance type may be more suitable, I'm sure someone will tell you? Cheers Gary
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I've not had chance to replace the pulley and check TDC yet, been laid low with a bout of Man Flu However I did get chance to compare my pulley/damper with a known good one thanks to my mate Steve who's got a spare one, the key way and TDC Slot where in exactly the same location as Steve's spare pulley Steve told me he's seen them perished like mine before, his spare one was starting to perish but not as bad as mine I suppose after 40 odd years of Oil, Salt, Heat & Cold it will start to degrade the rubber? He's cut off the perished rubber flush with the pulley with a Stanley knife blade and the rubber seems fine underneath. I've stripped off the paint adjacent to the TDC mark but I have no timing marks on the pulley at all, weird? According to the Haynes manual I have 10 degrees BTDC Is 14.68mm from Tdc, the timing on the 5 is supposed to be 11 degrees Btdc, so I have measured 16mm and cut a small slot with a hacksaw at this position, also made a punch mark in the middle of the slot. I can now re-paint in black and put some White Paint/Tippex in the slot. Will double check TDC when I refit just to be sure. I'm waiting for a new Fan fitting kit to come from Canleys and will re-fit it all on Saturday if I feel better.
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Looks like I may have a problem with the R6 Grade Hose I've fitted it now so to late!
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Nick It sounds like I will be Ok with the R6 then, thanks for the feedback.
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I will be replacing some High Pressure fuel hoses on my TR this weekend and have decided while I'm at it to replace all the low pressure ones so I know that they are all new? I've purchased some SAE30 R6 Hose from a local motor factor, I wanted R9 rated but they didn't have any in the correct 1/4" internal diameter, will this Hose be Ok with Modern Ethanol filled fuels?
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John Excellent Idea with the Timing Marks, Originally I marked the 11 Degree's BTDC mark relevant for the TR5 with some of the Mrs's Nail Varnish! I was going to do this again, but will use your method. thanks for all the Advice .
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John Engine is in the Car, the Pulley isn't oily I've just re-pained it with Black Smootrite The reason for removing was on the advice of Dave the Guy who looked at my PI Problems on Good Friday, he noticed the Fan was wobbly and he could hear a funny noise from the front of the engine on Tick over The Fan was loose because the PO had not used the proper locking tabs on the bolts when re-assembling! I was worried about getting the Crank Pulley Nut undone as I've heard they can be a swine to undo, but I more or less undid it with my hand It wasn't tightened to the 90-100 Lbs/ft specified in the Workshop Manual that's for sure? Fortunately it doesn't seem to have damaged the Woodruff key and the Pulley is a snug fit on the Crank still. I will do what you suggest regarding checking TDC, if the damper/pulley hasn't moved I will reassemble and torque to the 95 Lbs/ft and then fit the proper locking Tabs when I re-fit the Fan. Hopefully it will be quiet then?
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The trouble is I live in England The rubber looks very perished where you can see it, although the pulley and damper seem firmly connected? I suppose I could compare it with another known good one and see if the TDC Mark and slot for the the Woodruff key are in the same positions. If the rubber has failed would it cause a noise at tickover?
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John It looks like I need to establish TDC and see it aligns with the TDC Mark on the Pulley? When I removed it I couldn't feel any discernible movement between the two parts, but like you say the rubber does looks perished You can get new Repro ones, but with my experience of Reproduction parts I'm not willing to take the risk. I do know someone that can sell me a secondhand one if it is scrap, but I'll need to check this one too. Whats the easiet way of checking if the TDC mark is actually at TDC?
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Mike I suppose when they fail the pulley comes away from the damper? I've had a strange noise from the front of my TR and was told to check this, the two parts are still joined securely on my car, although the Front pulley bolt was loose! I'm hoping that when I reassemble and tighten the Bolt to the Correct torque setting it will be quiet again, hopefully. I've attached a Picture, you can see the rubber bonding on the front of the Fan belt Pulley, presumably this goes all the way through the Pulley and into the Damper?
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Can anyone confirm if the Front Pulley and Damper assembly on the 6 Cylinder Triumph Engines are bonded together somehow?
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I've ordered some PTFE lined Stainless re-inforced hoses Off Malcolm at Prestige? Had a couple of people recommend him so hopefully they will last, although I didn't ask what 'R' rating they are The thought of 105 PSI Fuel spraying around is not a nice thought?!!!
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I've ordered some PTFE Lined Stainless Steel braided Hoses off Malcolm at Prestige. He had the front one in stock, told him the length of the Pump to PRV one so he can get it made up, another job to do when they come through the post? Price similar to Moss/Rimmers so hopefully they will last.
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Ok thanks guys I will make a few calls?
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I've got to replace a couple of High pressure fuel Hoses from the Pump to the PRV and from the feed Pipe to the Metering Unit. I was going to order some from Moss but didn't know if it's worth spending a bit more for the Stainless steel reinforced type. Anyone offer any advice?
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I've got to replace a couple of High pressure fuel Hoses from the Pump to the PRV and from the feed Pipe to the Metering Unit. I was going to order some from Moss but didn't know if it's worth spending a bit more for the Stainless steel reinforced type. Anyone offer any advice?
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Swopped the Brake Master cylinder today, ended up getting the Reconditioned one locally? Also ended up swopping the Clutch Master and Slave cylinders too, over £200 all in all Got my mate John to help with bleeding the brakes and put the new Silicone Fluid in too Brake Pedal much firmer now, but the clutch is still heavy , normal for a TR apparently? Found a couple of other small jobs to do, I seem to spend more time tinkering than driving!!
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The Studs look like they've been shortened to me? I would offer up your new rims and see how many turns of the nut you get before it tightens, with standard Herald/Vitesse type open Nuts the stud will pass completely through the Nut and protrude Slightly when tight. I believe the later Spitfires had blind nuts, be very careful you get enough turns on the Nut before it tightens, I would say an absolute minimum of 8 full revolutions of the nut will be needed before it tightens to get a strong safe attachment of the Wheel Rim, probably more ideally. There is a formula for working it out I believe, but don't know how you find it? 🤔
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Alan I though the rubber sealing strips attached to the edge of the valance adjacent to the Over-rider? Can anyone confirm this? Gary
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The Vitesse Engine to Chassis earth runs from one of the Bolts on the Front Plate to the underside of the Chassis via a steering rack clamp bolt originally. Make sure there is clean bright metal between the bolt/nut and the lug on the Earthing lead and coat in Waxoyl or grease after to stop corrosion.
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I've recently done a similar exercise on my TR and I had to change the Wheel Studs and Nuts, Not sure with the Spit, but I suspect the Nuts will be different for sure? Gary
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I've used Castrol LM grease, but any General purpose Grease will be ok? Only the lightest smear though. Why not take the Rotor Arm off and put a couple of drops of engine oil in the centre, a drop on the Pivot for the points to is recommended, if you have points still?