garyf
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Everything posted by garyf
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That's nice , Excellent Panel Fit too, especially the Doors, original Door skins by the look of it maybe? Reminds me again of my First Car a 1200 Herald bought in 1981 for the sum of £175, that was Conifer with a Black Interior, no longer with us unfortunately, despite me coating the Chassis and Underside in Engine Oil!
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I've had a Quote back off Past Parts of just over £100 plus V.A.T. & P&P, so around the £130 I've been quoted off the Local Guy? I'm not 100% Sure yet if it is Leaking or if the PO Over-filled it, I know it's removed the Paint on the lower part of the brake Servo at the joint so it may be a leak , I need to keep an Eye on the level after a bit of use? I'm planning on changing to Silicon Fluid, so will hold fire till I know for sure, I can then Change the Fluid at the Same time as the Master cylinder I've heard via the TR Register Site that there where a number of dodgy Master Cylinders around that leaked a few Years ago, so who know if the one at £70 is one of the faulty ones?
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I've had this company recommended by someone on the TR-Register Site too Colin? Had a look on the Website and they don't list the TR5 Master cylinder, so I've e-mailed them to find out how much to recon my old one if necessary, not 100% sure its leaking yet. Thanks anyway Gary
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It's the Brake Master Cylinder?
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I May have to change a leaking Master Cylinder on my TR5 Has anyone fitted one of the Reproduction Master Cylinders? I was talking with a trader at the N.E.C. Show Yesterday and he was able to supply me with a Repro Master Cylinder for £70 which I though was an excellent price, apparently they are made in Italy? Another Trader I know who lives locally to me was able to offer me an exchange Re-conditioned original Master cylinder for £130, these are bored out sleeved in Stainless steel, re-sealed and refinished as new, he also had an original Girling Master Cylinder at £250!! So whats the best option if I have to change it? I'm thinking the Exchange reconditioned one may be the way to go, not sure of the Quality of the Repro ones and the N.O.S. one may have issues for all I know? (how long may it have been stashed away on a shelf, 40 Year old seals and rusty cylinder Bore maybe) ?.
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GT6 Non Overdrive, although you may have been able to have 3.27 and Overdrive if you asked your Triumph Dealer Nicely?
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Is it a Wooden or Leather Rim? I've seen the Leather ones, as fitted to early GT6's and 2.5 PI's being advertised for silly money, wether they sell or not I don't know? Agree with Clive reference the Wooden ones, £100 to £200+ depending on condition? The Wooden rimmed ones are still pretty rare but more common than the Leather ones. I've got a Wooden one in my Loft, however I don't have the 2 Part Centre Boss for it
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Like you say the standard Sender unit only has the two connections. I suspect you will need to link the white terminal on the sender to the earth connection on the sender, then to the earth on the body, then connect the original Wiring from the Guage/Voltage Stabilizer to the Red terminal If you check the resistance between the White & Red connections on the sender first, this should alter as you move the float. You may also find that if you connect the Existing black earth wire to the White terminal, then the Guage wire to the Red terminal and ignore the earth connection on the Sender it will still work anyway. Hope this makes sense?
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I have similar problems with a set of Rostyles for my TR5 You may be better off trying to find a better set that only need the Satin black Paint redoing? Stainless Steel is apparently not easy to work with regards to getting dents out. I picked up a N.O.S. of PI rims off E-Bay several years ago for just over £70, although I've never seen any recently. You've more chance of finding a decent set off a PI.
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There was a Vitesse MK2 Saloon for sale on E-Bay a few years back which had a copy of the Original Sales Invoice from the Light Car Co shown on the Advert. I'm sure someone on here or in the TSSC owns the Car, the reg was BRA ***H I Think?
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I thought they would be It was a Kenning's Garage in the 80's, I remember getting service parts for my Stag from there. It was all demolished several years ago, there is a used Car Lot on the space now The other two you mention I've never heard of before?
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Marvellous! 🙂 Is the Light Car Company of Derby Listed Steve?
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Interesting to note that both cars have the normal Gearbox Oil Leak!!
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I know what you mean about confusing? When I set up the end float on my Vitesse after fitting new wheel bearings and rotoflex couplings with the help of a mate, we did it by trial and error adding shims as necessary, you need to feel the slightest movement of the hub. If the end float is correct, with the suspension all re-fitted and the wheel back on you should be able to feel very slight movement if you rock the wheel The explanation on the Canley classic site is the best, but I must admit it does confuse me too Good Luck
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My old Vitesse was a Personal Export model that was exported to West Germany (As it was back then?) My car had a Nieman Steering lock fitted and I managed to pick up a N.O.S. one at an Auto-jumble. I actually fitted it to a non steering lock outer lower column section which I had to drill in the Appropriate position. I used the original inner Steering column which had been modified (Presumably at the Canley Factory?) by welding an outer sleeve on the column about 100mm long with a slot cut in it to suit the position of the Pip on the Steering lock. I know the later Heralds/Vitesse's and presumably Spitfires/GT's from 1971 on had a different WASO type steering lock fitted, which I believe was because of new UK regulations insisting all new cars where fitted with Steering locks for 1971? Hope the above makes sense, if not send me a PM. Cheers Gary
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Soak them in a jam jar of oil for a couple of days?
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MK2 Vitesse & MK2 GT6 Engine exactly the same as far as I'm aware?
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You need a copy of the Mike Costigan Guide to originality Book, this goes into great detail about the various changes? A few that spring to my mind between Early 948 and 1200 are:- 1. Different Wheel arch Rubber Mouldings 2. Bonnet Location method to the Bulkhead. 3. Handle omitted on bonnet on later cars. 4. Air Intake pressing for Heater. I'm sure there are more, where are you Bill?
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Mike Ok, I will get some new studs ordered from one of the Specialists. Need to source some new tyres first though! Thanks Gary
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Mike I thought I would have to change the Wheel studs, this isn't a major expense? What about the front Hubs, are they different between Wires and Steel Rims, according to the TR5 Parts book they are but I can't think why?
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I'm going to fit standard 4.5J Steel rims to my TR which is currently fitted with 60 Spoke Knock on type Wires. If I remove the Bolt on Splined Hubs can I simply bolt on my Steel rims? According to the Parts Book the Wheel Studs and front hubs are different part numbers for Wire and Steel wheels so I'm thinking it's not a straight forward swop?
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Tim Yes sticking with the 4.5J Rims and going to get 165 x 15 80 Profile Tyres. I've picked the rims up after being blasted and painted, had them done a Satin Black Stove enamel finish (Didn't fancy the original Brown colour and I didn't want Silver either) Just got to decide on the Tyres now, Michelin XAS are available as you probably know, but at a Price! Will have a look at your Post on the TR Site. I don't suppose you know any one with any good Ro-style trims do you? I've got 6 second hand ones, but only 2 are what I'd class as good
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Yes, I can recommend Bills Door seals too. They are very similar to the original profile and no need to slam the doors with them fitted
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Yes, I can recommend Bills Door seals too. They are very similar to the original profile and no need to slam the doors with them fitted
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I've seen the Circular pins on the Arm that operates on the Bearing Carrier wear, but never seen the actual carrier wear? Also check the dimple part of the Operating arm that the Slave Cylinder pin works on for wear, cracks & splits. Gary