garyf
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Everything posted by garyf
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6 holes is correct for the Rotoflex spring. It certainly looks like the correct spring from the photo, 11 Leaves and the correct outer U Clamps. One way to double check the spring is to original factory dimensions is measure from the underside of the middle of the bottom leaf to the floor when the spring is on a flat floor or workbench in its normal fitted position? This should be 165mm give or take a couple mm. Also the Eye to Eye length form the centre of each hole should be 1014mm, aain give or take a couple of mm.
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It is a Pain working on the Mk2 Rotoflex suspension. Have you got a spring lifting tool for a start, these help a lot. Also the Mk2 Vitesse spring is a different profile to the earlier types here's a pic of a refurbished original spring? If your based in the Midlands your welcome to view the rear suspension on my car? Reagrds Gary
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Vitesse Seats?
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Try these people http://www.larkspeed.com/ Regards Gary
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I would advise you to fit some Koni 80-1389 Dampers and use the chassis top Damper mounting as per the Mk1 and Later Mk3 GT6's? If you have fitted the CV Conversion then the Rotoflex Couplings are not an issue. The wheelarch top damper mounting on the GT6 is susceptible to corrosion and metal fatigue (Refer to Andy Cooks blog for evidence?) I've got Koni Dampers all round on my Vitesse Mk2 and am well impressed? Regards Gary
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Got to agree with Rob, don't use that hub again, I wouldn't like to think I was driving at 70 on the Motorway with that spinning around ??) For setting up the end float on the Rear bearings have a look at the Canley Classics site. A guy called Richard Briscoe has had some of the Shims and spacers made up for setting the end float, is contact details courtesy of Cookie from a similar post on the TSSC Website are e-mail - rbmobileclassics@gmail.com or mobile number - 07766 354449 If you follow the procedure in the Workshop manual it's based on using a special Churchill Tool :-/ The important thing is to have a very small amount of play (End float) the workshop manual tells you the measurement (between 1 - 2 thousandth of an inch I think?) With the rear suspension fully rebuilt and back on the car, you should be able to feel the slightest movement if you try and wobble the wheel when the car is jacked up. Regards Gary
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It all depends what you are using the Car for. Is it a general run about? If so standard good quality Dampers should suffice, but be wary of some of the cheaper Black ones on E-Bay. I've heard some bad reports on here about the quality? If a modified or track car then Gas one will be worth the extra, I've heard good reports about the Gaz type, Spax seem to get mixed reports with problems with the bushing :-/. If expense isn't a problem then fit Koni, got them on all four corners of my Vitesse and haven't had any problems although I'm not much of a boy racer type ??)
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This is a Coincidence(whistle) I've earlier this week sent an E-Mail to Dale the Editor about the Quick Quiz and the omission of Gun Metal Grey from one of the Quiz Questions? According to the excellent Mike Costigan Book the Complete Guide to the Herald & Vitesse, it states Gun Metal Grey was available from 63-69? Gary PS Tried posting a Scan PDF of the Page but got an Error message? :-/
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GT6's where available with either a 3.89 or 3.27 Ratio Diff, normally with Overdrive the 3.89 was fitted, but I believe you could have had 3.27 with O/D as a special request? On the Vitesse models the O/D is denoted by the letter O at the end of the Commission Number on the Plate riveted on the left side of the bulkhead, presumably GT6's should be similar? Extra tags & letters/numbers where fitted to reconditioned engines, so they may have done similar to Gearboxes, never seen it myself though. Regards Gary
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I've got the Replica's on my Vitesse and they use special slim Steel Chrome plated wheel nuts that take a special adaptor to tighten/loosen. Not sure about the Original D1's though :-/
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Are they the John Brown Wheels replica's or Original Dunlops?
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Phil As far as I'm aware you won't get any club discount at any of the Triumph specialists? I restored my Vitesse between 2002 and 2006 and found TD Fitchetts & Canley Classics to be the best on Price and Knowledge of the small Chassis Triumphs (Herald/Vitesse/Spitfire/GT6) I also used Rimmers occasionaly although they tend to be more expensive than the two above, but they have excellent stock levels I Also used Chic Doig for some items and James Paddocks based in Chester, also got numerous parts from Autojumbles and Car Shows visited at the time, although original Triumph parts are scarce now :-/. # E-Bay is worth a look, although all it takes is two people wanting the same thing and the bidding can get silly! ??) TD Fitchetts purchased a number of the Old Triumph Press tools years ago, I know the Front Valances and Door Shells for the Herald/Vitesse range that they supply are pressed on the Original Tooling. Regards Gary
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I always thought the choke cables and knobs where moulded together on the 13/60 and Mk2 Vitesse's? The other knobs for Lights, heater and air distribution are removable I reckon.
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bxbodger wrote:An easier way to think of it is the same as tightening/ loosening a nut- you 'tighten' to weaken the mixture, 'loosen' to enrich....so looking from above, to weaken you wind up, to enrich you wind down. When the book says clockwise/anticlockwise, it's written as if you are lying underneath looking at the adjuster........if any of that makes sense! Yes, makes sense to me to if you look down from above the carb it's actualy anticlockwise? Make sure your timing is correct and ignition system are working ok first before messing with the carb.
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Richard_B wrote: Fitted to 2.5PI, (MkI) GT6 MkI & II. Saloons and GT6's have different bosses. Expect to pay £125 up to £250 with the boss, depending on who is selling and condition. Not saying you can't find bargains but you have to hunt them down. 8) This is a picture of a Standard Mk2 GT6 wheel (Similar if not the same as a TR5 Wheel?), you would have been able to get the Formula style wheel shown though as an optional extra from the Standard Triumph dealer? Agree about the values, saw one on E-bay recently with a £299 buy it now price ??)
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Slimboyfat wrote: Please note what I said about Courier spring availabilty earlier in this thread. Just the one left then?
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Pete I knew someone had fitted the Courier spring and was happy :) That seems to be the way to go then, a Courier Rear Spring with a 1" lowering block and the thicker Spitfire MkIV Antiroll Bar up front. This shouldn't cost a fortune? I might even do this to my Mk2 Vitesse when those pesky Rotoflex couplings start playing up!! ;D
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The Canley's Herald Swingspring conversion with the thicker Antiroll bar is a popular modificatons. Another option is to obtain a Courier Spring (Herald Van Type) this is also supposed to be a positive improvement that reduces camber changes and roll, with thicker/stiffer leaves and a flatter profile. Both Canley Classics and Bill at Rarebits4Classics have had these Courier spring remanufactured in the past, but I'm not sure of the current availability :-/ If you do decide to get a new spring be carefull where you purchase from, some of the springs are manufactured in India/China and are made of CHEESE!! ;D The Canley spring are Uk manufactured and better quality (So I have been informed?) Regards Gary
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Yes, I'm not quite old enough to remember the Cars new, but Mark is correct about the steering Wheel. All Vitesse '6' Models from 62-66 had the Herald 1200 Style 2 Spoke wheel, the 3 Spoke Steel Sprung, Leather covered TR4 Style wheel was introduced for the 2 Litre Models in late 1966.
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I have Firestone 175/70 Tyres on 5.5J Rims on my Vitesse with no issues on the rear, the Offset ET of the rim is important, I believe the Alloys on my Vitesse are ET16. I have a similar problem on the front with catching on the Bulkhead when reversing on full lock. Gary
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Link to a Photo of the Aston DBS similar to the one used in the film On Her Majesty's Secret Service. http://img3.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20120914180749/jamesbond/images/3/30/Aston_Martin_DBS_1969.png I prefer the DB5 but it's still a very nice car :)
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I reckon that is better than it came out of the Canley Factory!! I was told by Dave Gleed, a guy who used to work at the Canley factory that they had a Wooden Buck the shape of the door for the Herald/Vitesse range. This was so that when the front & rear scuttles where bolted onto the Chassis they could make sure the gap for the Door was correct ??) I bet you don't get that in the Toyota Factory at Burnaston ;D ;D ;D
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9540 wrote:Not sure what the A and B pillars are??? The car was a saloon but converted with a "new" rear tub (convertible tub I think). The hood frame appears newish, but not sure. I will try and get a couple of photos posted. Ta 'A' Post is at the the front of the Car where the Door Bolts on, from the Floor/sill up to the top of the Windscreen. 'B' Post the Door Shut pillar from Floor to Top of Wing on a Convertible (Floor to Roof on a Saloon) 'C' Post - Not relevant on a convertible but on a Saloon Car the Part from the top of the Rear Wing up to the top of the roof. Well that's my understanding anyway. Pictures will definetly help us to try and solve the problem
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1/4 UNF. I replaced the Grease nipples on the Driveshaft & Propshaft with short Slotted Stainless Screws, made them out of some short Stainless UNF Bolts I had left over from the Rebuild. The worst job is getting them back in when I've re-greased the UJ's, its an horrid fiddly job :(
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I've got my MGF Seats spaced 21mm up from the floor, they are offset to the Steering wheel, but then so are the standard seats? My seats are as close to the Transmission tunnel as I can get them without fouling the transmission tunnel, they are still nearly touching the Door cards on my car though, they are a tight fit to say the least! If you have a Saloon they should go back further than the convertibles.