garyf
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Everything posted by garyf
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Didn't want to pay that much ??) A secondhand one will do?
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Would you believe I'm still looking for this Boss ??) Anyone got one stashed away?
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2601 wrote:Spot on - give the man a banana. After making the animation the TW's were noticed to be missing - too late. Screams of anguish. All the other replies were right but not the one I was thinking of - so you were wrong. Roger I'm quite Partial to a Banana ;D
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Thrust Washers?
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Try Turning the Engine over with the Fan as you pull up and remove the radiator. The Bottom hose spout will fit in the gap between adjacent blades as you rotate the fan, you can then move the radiator up and out? Hope that makes sense?
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I've never tried it but the profile of the Mk2 Spring is different to the Mk1? You may find the camber is all wrong and you wear out the Rotoflex Couplings too!??) May work with a CV conversion.
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They come up on E-Bay every so often, not cheap though :-/ A recent set, E-Bay item number - 191124088301 had one bid of just under a £100 but I don't think they reached the reserve so may still be available if your willing to pay that much? Regards
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1/8" diameter rivets, not sure of the length, I would guess around 1/2" long? Originally the Webbing was clamped onto the Frame by small rectangular plates with two rivets per plate. I made some of these out of Stainless steel plate for my car as the originals where rusty. Again an educated guess but they where about 40mm x 15mm x 1.5mm thick Regards Gary
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timbancroft61 wrote:Gary, I can't see the point of changing the lower trunnion bushes to a polyurethane bush, I'd go with the std nylon top hats and mild steel discs and tubes. Plenty of copperslip or what ever grease you use. Radius arm bushes and spring eye bushes, def use polyurethane type. Remember to tighten up when the weight is on the car. Good luck. Tim I'm not sure I'm going to bother with the Polybushs for the Wishbone outer bushes, I did replace them during the rebuild with the standard Nylon types, I've only done about 12,000 Miles since (Must use the Car more!) so I reckon they should still be Ok. When I rebuilt the Rear Suspension I coated all the Suspension bolts with a mixture of Copper grease & Dinitrol 3125 Rustproofer, I also drilled and tapped for a 1/4 UNF Grease Nipple to the bottom of the Vertical link, I give this a squirt of EP90 and turn the bolt a full turn when I do the front Trunnions every year to help stop it seizing up. Got to try and source some decent Top Shock Extension brackets, sounds like there may be some dodgy quality ones out there :-/ Anyone recommend a decent suppplier for these?
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Looks like its going to be Superflex then? I haven't got much choice with the Trunnion bushes, Polybush don't do them for the outer Wishbones :( I've already changed the Springeye bush and fitted a Polybush Blue Bush :-/ The Superflex ones seem to be Red, so I'll have multi-coloured Suspension Bushes at this rate ;D
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I'm upgrading the rear suspension on my Mk2 Vitesse to Telescopic Dampers with a refurbished Original spring. While I've got the Rear Suspension partially dismantled I'm going to upgrade the Trunnion and other Bushes to either Polybush or Supaflex, can anyone advise which are the better of the Two or are they both decent Quality? Regards Gary
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Agree wIth the comments about needing extra weight on the Chassis and the fact you have to twist the vertical link against the tension of the rotoflex coupling, but are you sure that the spring lifter you have made is to the correct factory dimensions? If you had a bit more distance between the the 'U' section and the section that wraps around the spring, you should be able to get a bit more leverage? I'm sure the Spring lifter tool I have is a bit longer between the 'U' Section and the outer section that wraps around the spring with the bolt? Hope that makes sense.
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The catch should be fixed with two 1/4 UNF Bolts on to a threaded plate inside the car (On later cars anyway?), the holes in the bulkhead are slotted vertically to give height adjustment only. If it's in the wrong place you can undo the bolts and re-drill a couple of additional holes and slot them vertically and re-bolt them to the threaded plate, you have to remove the trim panels inside the car and the sound deadening pads. If your car hasn't got the treaded plates then a couple of 1/4 Unf bolts and suitable large penny washers inside the bulkhead should do the trick ;) However it looks more like your bonnet needs moving backwards, it's strange that you haven't got the adjusting rods fitted though, maybe a previous owner has forgot to replace them? :-/ Or possibly you have an early 948 Bonnet fitted, pictures will help?
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I've got a Mohair hood fitted, it's lasting well and folds down just like a Vinyl hood. The worst thing about Herald/Vitesse Hoods is the Quarter Light Windows split after so long :-/ You have to be carefull when folding them, more so when it's cold! Mine are Ok at the Mo, but have a few crease marks and will split eventually :( I Got mine from the Don Hood Company at Erdington in Birmingham, they've been going for years and also offer a fitting service too. Regards Gary
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I've got one of the Formula Woodrim wheels fitted to my Vitesse and would agree that the thicker Leather rimmed wheels will be comfier. Mine Flex's and creaks! ??) It looks nice though? ;D
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I have swopped my Rebuilt Mk2 Vitesse seats for the Early MGF ones and I'm well pleased with the additional support for my Back and Neck. I found the original seats lacked upper back and neck support, on longer journeys and I suffered consequently :( The Mk2 Vitesse Seats offer slightly wider bases and back rests compared with Herald 13/60 seats, but can't hope to match modern seats, I suspect the Herald frames are differen, but don't know for sure, Newton Commercial the Triumph Trim people will know? Because I have a Shadow Blue Interior I ended up having mine re-trimmed to match, not cheap ??) If you plan on doing a lot of long journeys then MGF or MX5 everytime, you also get the extra safety of Head Rests? As stated on here its not a 5 minute job to fit them either, but well worth it. I was lucky and managed to pick a set up via e-bay for under £50 :) Regards Gary
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Is your steering wheel a Formula Speedwell type? I have one of these on my Car and the Boss is in two parts which fit either side the Alloy wheel and clamp it, I can't see clearly from the photograph, but it looks like the lower part of your Boss has been soldered or welded to the centre shaft? This lower piece should pull off the splines of the shaft with the rest of the upper boss and steering wheel to give you access to the Horn pencil slip ring? can you take some more photo's of the steering Wheel and upper column?
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Are you sure the Horns do actually work? One of mine started clicking on the Vitesse and I had to turn the adjustment screw slightly to make it work? It may be worth making up a lead and connecting the Earth Terminal on each Horn to a good earth or even to the Battery Earth? A quick touch of the earth cable on a good earth and if the horn sounds you know its a problem with the Earth Return up the column somewhere? I've seen the soldered connection come adrift on the back of the circular earthing ring, so check this too. Regards Gary
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You can't get just the rubber part (As far as I know?) The rubber part comes bonded to the Stud. Gary
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Herald/Vitesse Horns often cause problems, working from the Rack check the following:- 1. Earth lead from Rack Mounting Bolt to Grease Nipple mounting 2. Earth connection on the Universal type connection joint from rack to steering column (This is often the cause, its located at the bottom of the Column partly hidden uder the suspension turret) you can make a new lead up to link between the two pinch bolts but be careful not to make it to long or it may snag? 3. The Circular Horn Pencil connection ring at the top of the column (check the purple lead that links into the loom, it sometimes comes unsoldered) 4. The Horn Pencil itself, this links the Horn push to the connection ring through the steering wheel and can break down internally (Test with a multimeter meter for continuity) 5. The actual Triumph Horn Push can also play up, strip and clean, check internal conections and ensure a good connection to the Horn Pencil from the brass part at the back of the horn push? If you look at the wiring diagram the Horns are permanetly live and when you push the horn push you are completing the connection to earth through all of the above items, so you can see after 40 odd years of use there's plenty to wear out :-/ Hope this makes sense and good luck! Gary
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It's listed on the Rimmer Brothers Website under Herald Fuel system, part number 608052. To be honest the original Sponge type seals fitted internally around the drain plug seemed to do no more than soak up the water and rot the bottom out of the Tank and floor! ??) When I re-fitted the Tank in my Vitesse, I ignored the Foam type seal and sprayed the bottom of the tank/drain plug and the Boot floor area internally under the tank with Dinitrol Rust Proofing fluid. I then fitted from underneath the car a standard Rubber Blanking type sealing grommet cut-out to suit the drain plug spout, The hole in the floor is about 50mm if I remember correctly? I think the new Tanks you can buy now don't have the Drain Points anyway. You should be able to pick up a suitable Grommet from an Autojumble or even an Electrical Wholesaler, or alternativey google Grommets on the internet (You might get Wallaces four legged friend though ;D) Hope this helps Regards Gary
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I would contact TD Fitchetts at Telford. They have a lot of the Original Triumph Press Tools, and their Valances are made using the Original Tooling and are a good fit, they will probably be the best price too :) With regards to the Bumber retaining strips, theses are supplied seperately for you to spot weld or Rivet onto the Valance. Regards Gary
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That looks like a Concours standard restoration there Alan, when is it going to be on the Road? Regards Gary
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I believe the original Factory finish was Gloss Black? Certainly all the Heraldds & Vitesse's I have ever seen, the Engine valancces have been finished in this colour. Regards Gary
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The original Springs are marked FRONT on the top middle where the Clamp plate fix's them to the Diff. I don't think it matters either but presumably there must be a reason why they where stamped FRONT Can Bill (Rarebits) shed any light on the matter?