ahebron
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Everything posted by ahebron
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Some days just arent worth worrying about Some 10 or so years ago I had new windows cut for the doors on my 6 Saloon. Weekend been I thought best get them fitted as the doors are hung on the car. Get the window into the door attach it to the winder mech and it wont wind all the way up. Try the other door and same problem bugger. Stare at it a few times and I reckon I now the problem, window is too long. Damn Needs about 4mm off the back edge that tracks up the guide. Today I go to the nearest glass company who tell me they cant grind it down., Ah well can you make me a new set? Yes but we cannot put the correct NZ safety label on it as they let there registration lapse for Auto glass as it wasnt worth the bother. When it comes time to get the car legal that could be an issue. Damn But they did tell me the company who cut the glass originally is still in business about 15 miles away. Head home to make an exact template off a genuine window I found in a spare door. The bloke from the house ventilation company visits and tells me due to lack of attic space they cannot fit a system. Damn. He also told me State Highway One out of Wellington is closed by a landslide in Ngauranga Gorge closing 5 lanes. I am not going to the glass company then as that is the main route to it and the other option would be gridlocked. Damn Ok I have some lights to repair on my bench from a local cameraman. Start work on them and they all need parts I dont have in stock so get in touch with the agent in Auckland and they promised to get back. Guess what they didnt. Damn On the bright side it was a lovely day and here is a photo from the end of the road of the sea fog this morning Adrian
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Lap belts would be all I would fit to your 59 coupe. The car is not designed for 3 point belts and in an accident you could be a lot worse off. Here in NZ if you fit seat belts to a car that wasnt designed to have them and you get found out by the WOF/certification people you are opening a very large can of worms. Adrian
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I took my bins of complete Herald diffs and Toledo/Dolomite CWPs to my engineer and he built me up two complete 3.89, one 3.89 CWP nose piece and a complete 4.11. My 4.11 diffs needed to be machined to accept the 3.89 parts and we had a pile of parts for the scrap bin left over. I am happy. Adrian
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That is wrong, you want the lip type. Check with Bill if he has any left He might be along soon. Adrian
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That is wrong, you want the lip type. Check with Bill if he has any left He might be along soon. Adrian
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Thanks for your reply Rustbuckit2011 Whenever I have worked on a car I have always tried to start with it as original as possible with any modifications easily reversible. I will first attempt to modify the part rather than the car to make a modification fit. I have fitted a 5 speed gearbox to an Alvis 12/50 ducktail, relocated the gearshift on a Lagonda, fitted modern electrics to vintage cars, etc but all easily reversible with b olt on parts. I am sure we have all had cars that we have thought "what on earth was the PO thinking of when they did that?". For all I know in the future someone might want a genuine MK2 CV with lever dampers so my chassis will be set up for them The stage the car is at present is the best time to set the chassis to original spec whether or not I fit lever dampers. Adrian
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I want to convert the new chassis from the 13/60 to original Mk2 Vitesse spec. When I restore the car I want it to a back to a standard Mk2 Vitesse so I can get it through all the vehicle testing without any issues. This car fell off the system many years ago so needs recertifying. Any modification will be done after this, this is what I am doing with my Vitesse 6. Also if I ever sold the car the ability to revert back to standard will be beneficial. Whether I am mad or not is for an entirely different forum.(dizzy)(dizzy) Adrian
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Hi Nick Thanks 'for the reply I might get the plasma cutter out and chop the old ones out when I need them then. Adrian
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As wel as restoring my 6 I also have a Mk2 CV in storage that needs a rebuild. I have a spare 13/60 chassis that I will convert to Mk2 spec. Inner rear wishbone brackets are available but does anyone make the rear shock mounts that are welded to the chassis. I am aware that lever dampers arent the bees knees but I want to get the chassis to spec before I swap over shock absorbers. This is me being lazy and not wanting to pull the car out of storage and copy the bits but it is always an option. Adrian .
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Send Bill a PM. He had some the other day when I asked him but I found a set in my shed so didnt go ahead with the order. Adriabn
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Send Bill a PM. He had some the other day when I asked him but I found a set in my shed so didnt go ahead with the order. Adriabn
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It probably has an electric vacuum pump to create vacuum for the servo. Adrian
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http://www.telegraph.co.uk/mot.....o-battery-power.html Adrian
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Now I might be wrong here but bear with me. I am rebuilding the doors on my Vitesse 6 in preparation for fitting them to the body. I had a look at the outside door handles and as we know the right one has a key lock and the left one just a button press, on lhd cars it will be the other way round. A minutes staring and I came up with the idea of taking a barrel out of a spare rh door handle and swapping out the press button on the lh one. It all went surprisingly easy and looks like it will work once I get the locks keyed alike. But will it work and is this all that is needed to convert both doors to key locks? Thanks Adrian
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Now I might be wrong here but bear with me. I am rebuilding the doors on my Vitesse 6 in preparation for fitting them to the body. I had a look at the outside door handles and as we know the right one has a key lock and the left one just a button press, on lhd cars it will be the other way round. A minutes staring and I came up with the idea of taking a barrel out of a spare rh door handle and swapping out the press button on the lh one. It all went surprisingly easy and looks like it will work once I get the locks keyed alike. But will it work and is this all that is needed to convert both doors to key locks? Thanks Adrian
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Thats good to hear. Adrian
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I am going through the trials and tribulations of fitting the bonnet to Vitesse 6. I have all the parts and going from photos and manuals etc I think I am assembling it correctly. But I cannot get my bonnet springs taut in any position of the bonnet. I have hooked them into the welded loops at the bottom of the bonnet tubular frame and the slots in the bonnet stay. I have the bonnet stays as per the diagram in the Canleys and Rimmers Catalogues Any ideas on what I am doing wrong. Thanks Adrian
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Me again. I finally got to my spare bonnet to have a look at it today. Yes the bottom of the grill aperture is curved to match the top of the opening. Looks like I will have to get a length of U channel made 16mm wide by 12mm deep and the right length then slowly curve it to suit. I did think about cutting the section out of the spare bonnet but it has rust and I am over robbing parts from one car project (or bonnet) to fix another. Adrian
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Thanks for the replies. I agree it is very tight down there. I had a look at the bonnet on my Mk2 but its been pushed in so that is no good as a reference. Front valance is another matter Adrian
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Yesterday I temporarily fitted the bonnet to my Vitesse 6 mainly as a way of storing it out of harm. I noticed when I tried to close it the metal angle the panel beater had welded in across the bottom of the grill aperture was to deep and kept hitting the radiator. Today I removed the bonnet and cut the base of the angle down so it was the same width as the remaining original metal work on this part of the bonnet. Whilst doing this I also noticed they hadn't welded the broken tags that hold whats left of the original strengthener that runs across this part. I cleaned the paint back to bare metal and struck up the mig and reattached these broken parts correctly mating each part with its mate by using wedges etc. My question then is to do with this metal that the bottom of the grill fixes to. Is it in basically a straight line or does it match the curve of the top of the grill aperture? At present mine is roughly a straight across the bottom. Hopefully there is photo with this, the green part is the base of the grill opening. Thanks Adrian
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I certainly hope so. Thanks Adrian
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Like most of us I have collection of various Triumph bits cluttering my workshop shelves. Now I have started to work on my Vitesse I dug out several Dolomite/Toledo 3.89 diff heads and a couple of 4.11 Herald diffs of various description plus a Vitesse/GT6 3.89 diff head with a broken crown wheel. Obviously the 3.89 Vit/GT6 unit can be rebuilt using the Dol/Tol 3.89 diffs but what is involved in converting the Herald 4.11 to 3.89 using the Dol/Tol units. I am assuming that I would be best to use a 13/60 4.11 as a start with its bigger half shafts. Engineers and machinists are not a problem to get work done. Thanks Adrian
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Hi Cerberosa What starter motor is that? Is it an Isuzu one? Thanks Adrian
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Hi Nick Did you take any photos of the inside of the bonnet area you welded? Thanks Adrian
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Thanks for that Adrian