daver clasper

I wonder what would happen (if anything?), is just normal sun cream was used?

Ah, thanks Wendy. I'm aware of the tensioning fabric that runs in a channel, each side, in the top cover. I was misunderstanding, thinking it was some metal bracing brackets that joined the main frame side sections, to the sides of the roof. I thought I once saw a diagram/picture of these (3 each side), though this could be by my imagination?

Hi Wendy. Do the tensioners apply only to the the earlier Britax sunroofs, eg, 12/50, which has four separate, bottom frame pieces? (rather than the 70's ones, which I gather are a one piece square section ?). I have been slowly looking out for an earlier one (they seem much rare than the later ones) to fit to my 67 Vit Saloon, though if it doesn't happen, that's ok (just a perfection item) . I did buy a later one and did some work on it, though sold it on, as the handle is so much more 70's, which I didn't quite like for this car. Are the tensioners available new, do you know? Thanks, Dave

I replaced a Smiths valve about 10 years ago. It was bought off Ebay, from a engineering place, oop north, that made them (they maybe supply to all the usual suspects, if they still make them?). There was a polite cover note included, that recommended to leave the valve in the open position, when not using car. I have done this, as well as running open when driving, to keep the heater matrix free flowing as well. My car is used, at least every couple of weeks, at least, all year around, so this helps. It's still fine now, though I have heard of others, only lasting a year or two? Dave

Hi. If anyone has any thoughts on my last post above?, these would would be much appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Thanks guys. Not an urgent job I don't think. though something I may attempt in the future

Hi Glang. Was the sump ok to remove, with jacking the rear of engine up a bit/some?. I've heard it can be very difficult. Any tips please

Have done a bit more plug colour monitoring at higher speeds, since last post. it appears plug colour of 1,2,3 is a lot more uniform when cruising at higher rpm (my previous monitoring was I think at slower rpm/city driving and also a bit oily looking at times?). Wondering if the sooty and maybe oily looking no 2 plug at low rpm, is caused by oil, causing some contamination of this plug, resulting in it not burning fuel properly/running rich? Therefore maybe not a compression issue? ( I will do a comp test when I have an assistant as only have the rubber plug type, and also maybe a leak down, if I can facilitate this?). The comp tester is an older one and seems ok quality, is this bung type/push down one ok, as long as you appear to get an ok seal?. Any thoughts great, thanks

Sounds interesting!, can you elaborate?

Made my own from builders bag etc. As well they help to keep water off the door cards (which also then runs down the bottom of the inside of door and over the main door seal, over the sill area and into the floors). Just my experience, as car used all year, in all weathers

Also, I have no experience of driving other Vitesse's, so I can't compare

On a strait,ish, flat,ish road it feels ok at 30mph in top, though generally in towns I use 3rd. As Glang commented, I was just sharing my experience. It was what came with the car and not saying it is anyway it the best configuration. I assume there may be some subjectivity in this anyway, depending on driving style etc

Is that compared to Vitesse Nick, as GT6 cut through the air better at higher speeds?. My Vitesse had a retro fitted overdrive and 3:27 fitted when I bought it. No problem with hill starts, acceleration probably not too perky due to diff ratio, though great cruiser in overdrive and pulls up long motorway inclines no problem.

I always thought it was, balance first, then adjust mixture, which would make sense to me?

Thanks Clive. I have some spare 5's, so will try one and rich it up a bit as well

Thanks Clive. Compression test, best done with engine at operating temp? Car has been running NGK BP6 ES. I think the lower the no, the hotter the plug?. Any idea which grade of plug may be a good starting point?

Hi. Car is running well, though plug colour on cylinders 4,5,6 is uniform and about right. Plugs on 1 and 3 look to be running very weak and no 2 plug is very sooty. Firstly I. Fitted spare dizzy cap and HT leads Swapped plugs around This made no difference and plug colour was monitored regularly over about the past 500 miles. Today I. Checked valve clearance's, all ok. Used an unlit butane torch around the inlet manifold to head gasket area to see if any air leaking in, no increase in revs. Thinking maybe to do a compression test, to see if no 2 is low on compression and therefore a poor combustion on that cylinder. Worth trying? The dizzy shaft has always had about, maybe 5 thou" side play at the top. Could this maybe cause weak ignition just on no 2 cylinder?. Car has been running points for ages. I have a electronic ignition that I can fit, that should eliminate the play in shaft. Worth trying maybe?. As far as mixture goes, I'm not sure if it is set a bit too rich, as maybe showing on, no 2 cylinder and something else is causing 1 and 3 to appear running weak, or mixture is set too weak, as maybe showing on 1 and 3 and something else causing no 2 to appear to be running rich/ poor combustion? Any thoughts and advice, much appreciated. Thanks, Dave

Yes, Mick is great

If any of the rocker pads have a wear area from the valve tips (which seems to be common), then valve clearance wont be accurate if set with feelers and will be too large. If say an old 5 thou old is used between rocker and valve tip with the engine idling, then this often will quieten down any too large a clearance on individual valves . There are ways to set more accurately if your interested

Thanks Glang. I have changed plugs and HT leads around in case of weak sparking, no difference. Fitted new manifold gasket a few years ago (one piece, for Mk1 Vittese, though some folk advise using two as thinner than orginal?) and nipped up the nuts recently, though not sprayed brake cleaner around yet to check for inlet leaks. Thought I would also do do a compression test, as assume if lower compression on a cylinder then would run rich?, and will check also valve clearance. After that, then out of ideas. Probably wont worry too much as only a few K mileage a year, though aware, not ideal to be running massively rich for possible bore wash/carbon build up, or weak for valve/piston damage. Who knows? Cheers

Hi. I have read that air/throttle butterfly valve balance is not so pertinent at higher RPM, which seems logical and therefore I assume is more of an issue a idle/low RPM, which also would make sense. Also I have read that if the balance is not correct the carbs are fighting each other, what would be the symptoms of this please? Car is running well, though showing big difference in plug colour on individual cylinders from the same carb recently (more so after idling/slow moving in traffic for a while, no1 white, no 2 very sooty). Thought I would ask if any imbalance could affect mixture?, though not sure how?, to maybe look at after investigating other, maybe more likely possible reasons, have some ideas, though any advice great. Thanks, Dave

9 years and 20K miles ago, I replaced, with a £8 one from Canley. Still ok. I don't drive hard though?

Maybe, though I have seen the same info, on at least one, non Triumph, generic Lucas dynamo testing publication

I didn't have the Moss info, though lot of others, Haynes for one, I think? and even classic auto electric manuals, as I remember (one of them even said, that there's no point in revving more than idle ?) Seems very odd, if this is misinformation? . Has it possibly been plagiarised?

Glad you got there. Regarding the dynamo testing. I got the same lower voltage figures at low RPM on 3 dynamos (this testing info appears on a number of info sources). Replaced the control box and been charging fine since. Ah well, at least Iv'e got 2 spare dynamos, that I'll probably never need.