daver clasper

Thanks Wim

Thanks folks

Hi Wim. I assume they be ok for any small chassis Triumph, as basically the same rack, do you know?. In my case, a Vittese. Thanks, Dave

Hi. Wondering if this usual after higher mileage?, and also acceptable?, as assume it won't alter the timing setting, as the play is taken up when engine running?. If a problem, could the ends of the pin be peened, so spreading it out, to tighten it up in the dog? Thanks, Dave

Thanks Guys.

Hi. I know that service schedules, say to change oil after a certain length time (6 months for my Vitesse I recall?) regardless of mileage. I'm interested to know why this would be so necessary, for my driving situation?. I do around a 1000 miles per year, of mainly longer distances and not thraping it at all. I intend to keep the car indefinitely though the total likely mileage I will do, will still be relatively low, so any wear will not be maybe too crucial, I assume? What harm to the engine could this maybe do (and how and why?), if the oil was changed, say every two years and approx 2000 miles. Genuinely interested (as well as not wanting, to throw money away unnecessarily). Thanks, Dave

Bit confused as to what the star shaped "thingy" actually does with mine?. There is about a 2 to 3mm gap between the prongs and inner area of filter, therefore the filter droops down a fair bit when holding the housing in the horizontal position. Maybe as Richard implies, if the housing is rotated when doing up the bolt, this will ensure the filter centralises itself?

Thanks a lot, that's great

Thanks for those pics Mark. I have no idea why the difference?. The unholed one in the second pic, appears to be the same as in the usual parts diagrams?. I've just bought a used housing. The four pronged washer thingy on this is positioned on the bolt about 3/4" from the thread (by four peening pips on the bolt), so it can only move/slide back towards the the bolt head end. Is this correct?, or has the thingy been forced over the front (threaded end of the bolt) of the pips at some time?. Your photo looks like it shows one of pips in the same place as mine with regard to to the thingy. Hope this makes sense Thanks Dave

Excellent. Thanks Clive

Ah, if thats the case, that makes sense Thanks Glang

Hi. Just bought a second hand one as having problems with the seal kits for the Mocal spin on adapter that's currently fitted to car. Will buy appropriate filter that appears to include the large outer seal. Just wondering how to be sure the filter inner seal is in contact with the block when the housing lip is in contact with outer seal and sealing ok?. Maybe I'm overthinking it, though any thoughts, much appriciated. Thanks Dave

Thanks for patience Glang. Just checking that you knew the ignition light has always gone out (except with the CB that was given to me)

Hi. I Understand any non member of this club (and the other main Triumph club) can post questions etc, and will get advice. Hope this helps. Dave

Hi. Nice to see an aim for preservation, rather than the usual resto. Depending on the cars environement, if not a daily driver and kept in a dry garage, I think it would take a long time for it to get much worse and it wouldn't get to any "rot" stage. To help preserve, I have no definate ideas, I think folk use a mat/satin laquer to help preserve a rust patina. Maybe some form of wax may help?.  Both would have to be re done at some point?, I imagine Cheers, Dave

Hi. Previous pads have had a plasticy coating on the back. I have just bought some that don't have this. Do I need necassarly to buy some shims, or if no squeal, not bother. I would describe my usual braking as light. Thanks for any help. Dave  

Thanks Glang.  I always assumed that's what made the chatter, though if I have a hose to ear and top of valves I don't think I hear much, so was wondering?. There normally isn't any separation between cam lobes/tappets/pushrods/rocker adjuster screws when running to make any noise, I assume?. Dave 

Hi. If a valve clearance is too large, what metal part on metal part is making the excess noise, or is it a few things please?. Thanks for any replies. Dave

Cheers Glang. Here's hoping.

Hi. Looked at the generic gasket available. Seems good, though time consuming to cut to fit. My exhaust manifold has max 20 thou difference on one inner port long the length of manifold (though this could be less, for example, to adjoning ports). Do the seperate ports, close tighter/closer, in a bit , when torqued, I assume they would?   Is this acceptable do you think for my "thinner than org, new, gasket". Thanks, Dave

Cheers Glang. Will investigate the gasket material.

Thanks I was thinking, maybe get a gasket from Canley or Chic Doig, as they do repairs, etc on Triumphs. Have heard some can be dodgy, (maybe too thin?). Folk have suggested using two?. Any experience of this please?. Cheers, Dave 

Not sure if this is of use. Though. Depending on how much fuel is in the tank, could it be the cap is not breathing, causing fuel starvation. Never happened to me, though others say to remove cap and a whoosh sound can be heard as the vacuem fills with air (not sure if it would do 40 miles like this though?). Debri in the tank, that blocks the line, though settles after standing. When it happens, may be worth removing the hose near the front carb and switch ignition on to see if fuel is reaching carbs. Worth changing rotor arm/points, as repro ones, can often be dodgy?. Dave 

Thanks all, for your response, much appreciated. Couldn't feel anything by hand and no visible soot marks (though could be underneath or at sides?, as very tight to see/feel anything there, as far as I can tell?. Did use a narrow piece of hose to my ear and there was a ticking sound on no1, if the hose was held a few mm away from gasket at the top area. Couldn't hear it, if hose was moved to the head, close by. No sound like this from the other ports. It was a tappety sound that I first heard, when driving over 1500 RPM and I checked tappets, a couple a bit gappy, so adjusted. No different. I heard that leaky exhaust manifold can cause tappety sound. Anyway I nipped up the fastenings a bit, for that port and it seemed quieter with hose, though maybe a bit of ticking still.  Driving I can't hear it. So, do you think the hose diagnosed the issue please?. The exhaust gasket edges look very tired and are crumbly  Also, any harm to engine, in running it if still has a small leak, (hot gasses burning the head/manifold gasket faces, etc) until I sort it?, as is my only car. I'll maybe take a risk on CM poisoning as seems it would be very small amount and keep windows open. Any more help, would be great. Thanks, Dave       

Just wondering, that a lot of those pro custom shops in the State's, just cut down the springs to get them lower, though I guess it's about the tension as well as has mentioned above . Dave