daver clasper
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Everything posted by daver clasper
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Cheers Pete Maybe not as easy as I thought then (can't remember how it is in there). Dave
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Cheers Pete Maybe not as easy as I thought then (can't remember how it is in there). Dave
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Thanks Pete. Will give that a go. Anything for an easier life. Which bit is the roller channel please. Cheers, Dave
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Thanks Pete. Will give that a go. Anything for an easier life. Which bit is the roller channel please. Cheers, Dave
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Thanks everyone Pete. Is the Butyl stuff strong enough to attach plastic sheet to bottom section of glass/glass channel. Could the other end also be bonded to inside top of door skin, near outer seal, or would it have to be trapped between outer seal and top of door skin, which involves removing seal and refitting it's clips. Haven't got door cards off at the mo, but from memory either way looks fiddly due to access, therefore does it involve removal of glass/other parts please?. Cheers, Dave
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Thanks everyone Pete. Is the Butyl stuff strong enough to attach plastic sheet to bottom section of glass/glass channel. Could the other end also be bonded to inside top of door skin, near outer seal, or would it have to be trapped between outer seal and top of door skin, which involves removing seal and refitting it's clips. Haven't got door cards off at the mo, but from memory either way looks fiddly due to access, therefore does it involve removal of glass/other parts please?. Cheers, Dave
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Hi Having issues with water getting into door at the bottom of the glass and running out of the bottom of door card and over the door seal and into car. Plastic sheet is taped to inner door face between the door card, though this is not working. Its been suggested that I fit the suspended weather curtain, that forms a deep u channel that fits between the winding window and outer weather strip and channels water to the sides of the door. Looking on Canley web site it appears the curtain is in 2 sections?, though no longer available. I guess it could made up from a shower curtain, etc. Does anyone have any experience of this please. All the info I can find is from people who have not bothered with them and just taped plastic sheet as I have done. Would like to sort this if pos, so I can fit my carpet. Any help would be great, thanks Dave
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Hi Having issues with water getting into door at the bottom of the glass and running out of the bottom of door card and over the door seal and into car. Plastic sheet is taped to inner door face between the door card, though this is not working. Its been suggested that I fit the suspended weather curtain, that forms a deep u channel that fits between the winding window and outer weather strip and channels water to the sides of the door. Looking on Canley web site it appears the curtain is in 2 sections?, though no longer available. I guess it could made up from a shower curtain, etc. Does anyone have any experience of this please. All the info I can find is from people who have not bothered with them and just taped plastic sheet as I have done. Would like to sort this if pos, so I can fit my carpet. Any help would be great, thanks Dave
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That's great, thanks Nick Look forward to that. NOT Cheers, Dave
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Hi Marcus O/D mechanicals a bit over my head, though had problems with my J Type not engaging sometimes/not disengaging/engaging even when disconnected. Not cured by the simple stuff. Couldn't find anything about this online Spoke to Dave Twigger at Overdrive Spares Rugby. Dead helpful and diagnosed the above as o rings in pressure relief valve hardeneded and not allowing movement, probably combined with solonoid gummed up. He was spot on and a cheap though dead fiddley fix. may be worth giving him a call Dave
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thanks folks any tips on fitting the 16P little rascals please. Cheers, Dave
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Thanks everyone Yes. They are the 16P calipers and have read they are tricky to fit, so a bit daunted. Vaseline, wooden coffee stir stick?. Also is it difficult to figure out how they fit please?. Cheers, Dave
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Advance/retard adjustment vernier thingy on dizzy
daver clasper replied to daver clasper's topic in Electrical
Thanks, that's brill. Have always set by the timing by the "back off from pinking" by turning the diz, though I guess finer adjustment can be done by the vernier. Anyone know what the amount of range of the vernier is in degrees at the crank. Cheers, Dave -
Hi Can this wheel be turned until it just stops at the end of it's range (or will it come apart). Any help great please. thanks Dave
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Hi I understand these are sometimes omitted by folk. Mine were intact though started to disintegrate on removal. (had sticking piston). they had collected a fair amount of crud in them (is this normal) and bottom of pistons were rusty. So wondering how much help/harm they do and if to clean up pistons/bores and refit without boots. Maybe some red grease around bottom of pistons and clean them up from time to time. Any help great please. Thanks, Dave
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That sounds simple for a change Thanks a lot Dave
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Hi The vinyl covering of these are good, though showing some small patches of wear on the edge on the front sides about 7" from to of the base section. The internal high points I can feel causing wear, look to correspond to the thickish looking wire between the frames and the webbing on diagrams. The seat foam seems a bit shot and I assume some goes between these wires and vinyl . So. No time to a proper job on seats, but is it easy ish to separate front base from upright to maybe push a strip of rubber webbing up between the wire and vinyl to protect. Hope this makes sense. Any help great please. Cheers
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Yes. Had some great, friendly advice from Overdrive Spares (Dave Twigger I think) and some small parts supplied very reasonably priced.
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Hi Jason My Vitesse J Type O/D gearbox is quiet from whine noise, though when in O/D a bit of a whine (quite common I understand). As it is a "bitza". (Vitesse casings and gears though I think Dolly 1850 top shafts, and runs a TR7 4speed/Dolly 1850 clutch drive plate to accomodate the later J type),It makes a bit of noise in 1sr (apparently 1st meshing slightly with reverse idler). This is common on this "bitza" speck apparently. According to Mike Papworth who rebuilt it, this is the strongest arrangement for a small case box and will take 150 bhp. On my Vitesse the OD sump (which needs to come off to access the filter/pressure relief valve/pump) is slightly obscured by one chassis main rail, so I had to jack up G/B a bit to remove. The DType O/D box will not be this hybrid type and use Vit/GT6 bits as factory speck I understand. Stock of good internal core, is thin on the ground now I understand (Mike Papworth has stockpiled some I think). He has a good reputation and reasonable prices I would say (I know shipping would cost you and a pain if any problems with a unit from UK). Hope this woffle is of use. Dave
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There is a factory figure for oil pressure (for example the 2 litre 6 cylinder is between 40-60 at 2000 rpm , toward the higher end better). None given for idle, though I think 20+ is considerd ok. Dave
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There is a factory figure for oil pressure (for example the 2 litre 6 cylinder is between 40-60 at 2000 rpm , toward the higher end better). None given for idle, though I think 20+ is considerd ok. Dave
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Hi. Advice around wiring direct from battery to coil (usefull I thought to get car home if problem with ignition switch ect, occurs) is DON'T. Is this because it wouldn't be fused, or other reasons please?. Cheers, Dave
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Hi I replaced a front wheel bearing on Vitesse a couple of years ago from canley classics. Done about 6000 miles. About a tenner. Some say, have problems with some cheap bearings lasting a few hundred miles?. I Had to nip it up a couple of times in that period of time. One thing discussed on Club Triumph threads is the felty washer supplied with bearing. apparently it's better to re-use old one if ok as helps with not having to make a lot of future adjustments. Dave
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Spoke to Bill (Rare Bits) at Stoneleigh. He implied that they will still be doing shows and I think the seals may still be available mail order?. Dave
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Did get mixed up there, I was thinking of the petrol ad stuff. I have tried the oil ad stuff in STP form. Very thick stuff. Did it with last oil change to make it more economical than adding between changes. I think it may have halved my oil use, certainly seems to have improved it. I'm not one for using "snake oil"stuff normally, but a couple of folk on this forum reckoned it worked. Dave