glang
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Everything posted by glang
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+1 yes you need take off the top cover of each carb to check the diaphragms are correctly located on both the pistons and carb bodies. Hopefully the diaphragm itself hasnt been damaged. Also just noticed that on my carbs (admittedly early version) the covers are installed 180 deg round the other way.....
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Dont know about Dinitrol its really lubrication you want so I think working a thick grease into the leaves as much as possible and coating the whole thing is the best you can do with it. If the drum binds and then releases as you spin it then its definitely oval which is not unusual over time and heat with cast iron. Mine were the same so I took em to a local engineering shop who skimmed the braking surfaces on a lathe for 25quid the pair. The improvement was 100% but they did say it was a difficult job to do perfectly without the specialised equipment. Looks like your jobs are multiplying but thats always the way 😀
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orrrrr how about my budget option: spray on polyurethane foam! I then topped off the top of the cover with an extra layer of stuck on secondhand carpet all of which has been pretty effective.
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It sounds like the splines have worn on the stud and possibly the hole in the hub and now theres no grip between them. Hopefully a new stud will be able to engage with them and lock in. With the wheel and drum removed I put the stud in place and then screw on the nut until it almost makes contact with the hub (you might need some sort of spacer if you come to the end of the threaded part) then I gently wiggle the stud/nut to get the splines engage before I do up the nut further to pull the stud into place. Once it is locked you can then undo the nut and reassemble everything as normal. If you do end up taking off the hub, for example if the splines are too worn, you must use a proper puller and definitely not a 2 leg one as the hubs bend much easier than you would think.....
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Sorry, correction, its a copper washer between the hoses and rear brake slave cylinders. The fronts have a normal coupler each end of the hoses to connect to the brake lines.
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Mine are copper - cant see fibre being used with hydraulic pressure....
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True but Im driving mine in sothern spain and after 50years the cooling system just doesnt seem to be up to the job when I go slow or stop. I believe it was borderline even when new (not surprising when you consider the design history) and only needs a little 'push' to overwhelm it.....
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I believe its magnet materials and so strengths that have changed so that you can get more power out of the same physical size of motor which in rad fan design is important. The blades have improved as well but at the end of the day it all comes down to how many amps the fan draws as this is a direct indicator of the air that its moving. Think the engine move will have to be a longer term project.....
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My stainless (thin wall?) exhaust allows quite a bit of movement - if I undo the rear hanger (its only fixing) it can be moved down and quite well out of the way but of course does need supporting. This obviously isnt ideal but I can understand why you dont want to remove the pipe completely and I think I would probably do the same...
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wow thats what I want! How have you modified the gearbox cover? However with your fan I dont know its rating (w) but think that electric motor design has moved on a lot from the 90s and that a modern unit would be far more effective.....
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If you think thats a tight fit have a look at my set up! I had to cut it up a little but its a Kenlowe 14inch 265w unit that draws 22amp and holds the temperature even when stopping suddenly after a high speed run on a good summers day
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oops fraid I just wacked it in! I did buy it from a reputable supplier but I imagine they all come from the same chinese factory
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of course youre right! Well it was a while ago I looked under there Not thinking about a 3.63 diff then?
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I didnt know there were poly bushes available for the trunion pivots - I'll look for them next time mine need doing! Looks like your job is expanding and it might have been easier just to drop the whole back axle out (disconnect brakes, trailing arms, dampers and diff).... What are you doing on the diff?
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I suppose it might be done with only the 3 rear studs removed as the diff has to be lowered at the front and then slid forward to take it out however you'll definitely have to undo the other nuts to take off the plate so probably easiest to unscrew all of em. Once released the spring is free to move upwards as far as the boot floor so allowing movement of the vertical links - you might have to jiggle the wheels a bit but the flanges should separate easily. As you say while its apart you might as well do everything including the vertical link suspension bushes if they havent already been done...
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you should be able to just lever the flanges apart or once you undo the spring they separate automatically. However then the spring is free and the car shouldnt be lowered back onto its rear wheels as there wont be any suspension support.....
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on my mk1 Vit I do what youve done then remove a small cover plate in the boot to undo the leaf spring holding plate bolts. Lastly theres the actual diff holding bolts to take out (two at the front and a long cross bolt at the rear) and gently lower the unit out of place. It weighs a fair bit so I do this last bit on a trolley jack and obviously you need to have the car jacked up high to improve access.
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The feet on that Kenlowe look a bit different from the usual ones that use those universal fixings. Normally the flat base of the tie goes the other side of the rad with a foam pad under it then the spring is installed with the widest bit on the fan and the small end engages with a cup in the underside of the locking discs. Id be interested to know how your set up works when you get it all installed.....
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Hi Dave, dont know what oil pump youve got fitted but I changed mine to the later bigger one and it has really helped reduce start up rattle, tick over low pressure and of course general running lube. Pretty easy job and not expensive either.....
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sorry I should have added to make sure you leave enough room to unscrew the filter itself for changing it! As you probably know it goes on to a threaded boss thats maybe 20mm long.....
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hmmmmm I prefer not to fiddle with things that are working perfectly. Ive bought replacement brushes just in case - do they fail suddenly or is there some warning and is it much of a job to change em?
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Anybody got any idea how many miles dynamo brushes last? Ive still got the originals in my Vitesse and just wonder when they might need changing...
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Hi Dave, same car and got the filter in the position youre thinking about. Its very easy to do as you just slacken the main fixing bolt slightly and rotate the whole assembly to the position you want. Its mounted on a rubber o ring and if youre careful wont even leak oil while you do it. And I do think that the oil pressure builds quicker after a cold start with the filter below horizontal in fact its a pity I cant get it vertical....
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Good news on the installation. For anyone with a similar problem: in the end what cleaning method did you use?
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Was the cleaning up difficult and thats why you only did a little? Im going to stick my neck out here and say that I'd be surprised if this problem gives you any more hassle, ever! However I dont know how you could lockwire the bolts and anyway think this is too much of a departure from the original design (which seems sufficient in 99% of cases) but would torque em to the correct setting and use loctite....