glang
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Everything posted by glang
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hi Mike, although a drain plug is a nice thing to have I would be very careful with the warranty you have on the diff. Speak to the supplier first to see what they say but I suspect they wont like the idea very much. Maybe they could do it but having suffered a catastrophic failure on a BL recon diff many moons ago I would certainly value a valid warranty over a drain plug anyday.....
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ouch! Unless they were left in the gearbox from a previous failure and subsequent rebuild (highly unlikely) I would be rather concerned. Is it noisy in low gears but relatively quiet in 4th? If it is the input to mainshaft bearing as Scrapman suggests you risk damaging them particularly the mainshaft tip which will make the rebuild more difficult and of course expensive.....
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Hi Mike, Ive got a few points that might help you: This supplier is one of the biggest and most reputable there is, The components you want are rather difficult and so uneconomical to produce in small numbers so any on offer can only be original equipment and as such are the best quality you can get, The only risk is that they might be used and not new (they have been out of production for years) but this should be fairly easy to see from the condition of the teeth etc. Graham
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Ive never seen anything that could explain its appearance and the only ideas Ive got are: have the valves been changed at some time and this one is different some how, theres a crack between that cylinder and the next or the gasket has leaked there and its affected the valve, water has leaked in via the head gasket and affected the valve.... Does the old gasket give any clues?
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Theres a few design weaknesses in these engines but Ive never heard of the headgaskets being one of them and never suffered a failure on 3 different models. Of course if your driving style is rather more ahem agressive than mine or youve upped the compression significantly then you're best off waiting for a reply from one of 'tuners' on here... When I mentioned the mixture I meant does the carbon build up look the same on all cylinders? With the valve it does look different.... is there any marking on the piston top of the same cylinder?
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cant really see what valve problem youre talking about in the picture. Do you mean what looks like impact damage on the 3rd valve from top? Also have all the cylinders been running with the same correct fuel mixture because the carbon build up looks to be different on some..... Will you be grinding in the valves while youve got the head off? Worth doing if not done recently and you can clean and closely inspect all areas better as well. The down side is the possible loss of the ingrained lead protection of the seats but the additive your using should do the job anyway. With the head gasket these low power engines are not prone to blowing them (unless loose of course....) so I dont think the make is critical as long as you get it from somewhere reputable.
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just thought of something else: its probably a good idea to mark the gearbox/propshaft flange before separating it and then make sure that the flange plus bolts all go back together just as they came off to avoid any balance problems....
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Dont know the exact numbers but theyre the ones. Ive not done an overdrive rear seal but it looks very similar to a non overdrive box where you undo and pull off the output flange and then extract the seal. For the front one you need to unbolt the bell housing and the seal is in the back of it. Youll need a new paper gasket but theres no need to touch the internals of the box. Have you got the workshop manual? I found it online somewhere and it shows all really clearly....
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If they havent been done recently I would automatically do rear crank and gearbox front n rear seals. You'll need some gaskets but they're cheap easy jobs that need doing every so often. Optional work might be a look inside the gearbox from the top cover, a gentle tighten of all the gearbox bolts as they seem to work loose quite easily, check wear on gearbox input crankshaft bronze bush, gearbox rubber mounts and gearlever bushes....
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Thats a lot of play! Hopefully you wont find damage to the crank because either a thrust has fallen out or they have worn down to the base metal..... Looks like the biggest oversize thrust available is only 15thou (0.381mm)
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Thats a lot of play! Hopefully you wont find damage to the crank because either a thrust has fallen out or they have worn down to the base metal..... Looks like the biggest oversize thrust available is only 15thou (0.381mm)
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hi Stuart, I dont know your cars exact set up but I would recommend fitting the biggest fan you can find. The problem with using a modern item rather than after market is identifying the power rating in watts and this is very important as its directly related to airflow. If you cant find it an alternative would be to connect the fan to a battery and measure the current it draws. I reckon you want one around 240w which will take 20amps so make sure your meter can handle that and of course the relay and wiring when you install it......
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Ive got a manual that says set the timing so that with normal engine temp. you can accelerate at full bore in top on the flat and the pinking will end at 2000rpm. I think its a good way of doing it cos the exact setting will depend on fuel quality, engine state etc
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Ok looking at minty lamb then I think the 1600 vitesse gearbox ratios would suit you better giving 36mph @ 6000rpm in first (eek) while keeping other gears the same.....
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Looks like someone must have swopped over the back casing of the diff to keep the 6 stud fixing. It would have been much easier to do than change the gears on the original unit! I didnt understand your comment about being fine once she's on the move as my Vitesse with original diff could almost do without 1st gear and Im thinking of going to a 3.63 ratio (especially as there's no OD). Cheers Graham
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well you'll need some rubber fuel pipe and jubilee clips (enough to connect to the tank pipe, the fuel pump inlet pipe and the carb supply pipe) and if the original pump outlet fitting is still good just a new olive for this connection. Bend to shape, clip in and connect up, job done....
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Hi Dave, I wouldnt worry about the internal strength of this diff and the ratio is correct (the Vit had the same diff regardless of OD or not) but I believe it'll only have 4 studs instead of the 6 of the original. This was to allow the use of a 'swing' leaf spring to counter the wheel tuck under problem exhibited by the earlier design however Im not sure what difference fewer studs makes........
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It looks better than mine but try to have a close look all round to see if the rubber has really separated to any great degree from the metal. After my experience with replacement rubber bits from china i wont be replacing my original items in any hurry!
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ok I see what you mean and its not something Ive looked at previously. Next time I get it apart I'll have a closer look and measure a few bits but thinking about it the design is pretty poor and I can understand why they changed it for the MK2!
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Thanks Rob, what do u mean by consistent thickness? If its the gasket then maybe there are quality problems with some suppliers..... If someone gives a positive recommendation for a gasket I'll try again this time as u say without goo and taking great care with the torquing up.
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Definitely manifold to head and they seem to blow in more than one place and each time different places so could be gasket quality. Anyone got any recommendations?
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Anyone else had problems with exhaust manifold gaskets blowing? Its a Vit mk1 and Ive had two last less than about 1000miles even though they were installed with sealant and torqued correctly. Cant remember where I bought them now but are there different qualities/materials available?
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I have to replace mine on the Vitesse and am thinking of going for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL.....8U7IG8BcSpSsf7CZq-Aw Probably need a bit of fettling but quite a saving over the standard item........
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Yes that does fit pretty well, any idea what amps it draws? Not going to go for waterless coolant though cos it doesnt stop overheating only the boiling that goes with it.....