glang
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Everything posted by glang
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Ooops well that would make it easier! But it sounds like youre going to be getting the engine out and doing the whole rebuild anyway......
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I would use a file flat on the face to clean it up with less chance of over doing it and then refit the flywheel IN THE SAME PLACE. After all it didnt vibrate before did it?
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yes you can no problem. Obviously its really important to get the engine/gearbox hanging at the right angle on the hoist but you then just thread it into place ideally with a helper inside the car to guide it in. The bits that are best removed the seats and gearbox cover but its not necessary to unbolt the bonnet.....
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yes some people will say you should have greasable u/js or the ones for Freelanders are better quality but if you can get it all done for a price like that I recommend you go ahead as it can be quite a fiddly job. Mine was slightly bent and had to be straightened with heat which of course brings an additional cost.... However I would check the play in the sliding joint carefully before starting - if its excessive you'll always struggle to be vibration free. Also mark everything before you dismantle it including the flanges cos, although in theory it shouldnt make any difference, why not put it back together exactly as it was and reduce the risk of any problems?
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Hi Radders, we've talked a lot about fans over on the Vitesse forum and it seems struggled to find a set up thats adequate. I know your car is quite different but I think you should bear in mind that the power of any fan (amps drawn/wattage) is directly related to its airflow and also price. To move the same amount of air as the mechanical fan you will need a powerful electric one however maybe you guys are lucky and the original fan was highly oversized so you can get away with a relatively small replacement.......
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Personally I think youre adding 2 n 2 to get 5 and talking up the problems. Its easily done as your mind finds clues to fit the conclusion youve already reached! How about finishing the valves, then putting it back together (which will only cost a few gaskets and time) and doing a proper compression check. Although your engine wont be like new I suspect its good for a few more miles yet.....
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sorry should have your thread better however I cant help you. Manual doesnt show that and anyway I dont think you'll achieve anything worthwhile as its very unlikely that any metal particles will be caught by it as they sink to the bottom. All I can suggest is you fit it then engage any gear except 4th and with the back off the ground and a helper operating the clutch rotate the propshaft slowly to see if its free......
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unfortunately I cant attached the drawing from my manual but it shows theres more than an inch of clearance from the interior bottom of the casing to the lowest point of the countershaft gear cluster....
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will you include a valve in the return to allow some adjustability or rely on the calculations? It certainly sounds like you've got plenty of spare capacity with your pump....
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I think if you cant find any improvement without the springs you're better off running with them as this should ensure ensure that the pistons are fully down and the tickover correct. As we've been discussing this Ive learnt some stuff as well such as the possibility of centering the jet so that the needle and piston return smoothly and positively to the closed position. Have a look at this site: http://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-a-stromberg-carburettor
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I think its more likely the springs make sure that the pistons return to fully down - without them it would only need a little friction to keep one open slightly so changing the tick over. However I do think they should be the same length
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Come to think of it I dont think there'll be any difference because at any particular throttle opening the low pressure applied to the carb before the piston is what acts on the diaphragm to lift the piston. If the piston is held more closed because of the spring said pressure will be lower so giving more force to the diaphragm to lift the piston until an equilibrium is reached - easy!
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I would have thought that running without em would tend to make the mixture richer but give it a try and see what its like - cant do any harm
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Yes the piston spring is the big one that must be used to make sure the piston returns positively to its fully down position. It sounds like you have everything correct with the change of needles and I dont think either the flooded filters or engine oil will make much difference (the latter should be SAE 20 so a bit thinner but the damping effect is only during acceleration and not constant running).
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Thats it - not a very precise method but the best Ive found as even with a Colourtune the results are pretty variable. Now give it a few good runs and you should see the tail pipe go a slightly greyish colour rather than sooty black. One other thing: I take it the airfilters are good? Heavily restricted filters would give richer running.....
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Sounds sensible to me John then with a regulating valve to ensure that the recirculating flow leaves enough pressure to supply the max demand of the carbs....
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I understand your reluctance to fiddle but if you're careful you can always return to the original setting. Youll know when its too weak as the engine loses power quite drastically and tends to run on after you turn off the ignition however the advantage of correct mixture isnt just fuel encomomy and cleaner plugs but also less carbon build up on the valves and combustion chambers.....
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Dave what does yours do when you press the carb piston plungers or if you wind the mix adjusters up a half turn?
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what youve described from the plunger operation is a rich mixture. Its the engines immediate reaction on pressing it that shows whats going on and when correctly set there should be no change. I give the plungers a jab when I do it cos if you hold em for longer then this will have an effect on the running and can make you think the adjustment is wrong. You can try a tweak of the screws as I dont think your mixture is far wrong but the further you go doing it 'blind' the more chance of error as the carbs might each be different.... Finally I use an octane/lead additive (Millers VSP) in my Vitesse which allows me to run standard ignition timing and a pretty lean mixture (36mpg on long runs) without excessive pinking or run on.
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yes it must be rich as you should need choke to start. Really it sounds like it could do with a complete set up then you can be sure everythings good: check/adjust engine valve clearances, balance airflow through each carb, set correct mixture and then tickover. The last job can be done with a colourtune unit installed temporarily instead of a sparkplug or using the small plungers that your carbs should have. I use the second method but it does take a bit of practice. The idea is that with the engine running operating the plunger lifts the carb piston a fraction and this causes the revs to increase if rich, drop if weak and stay unchanged when correct.....
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good news! Did you find anything wrong with the rear carb? It could have a leaking float considering its probably the same age as the faulty one or of course, as sod's law dictates, it could be something completely different.....
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Yes and we're only talking about a lump of metal plus some bits! After reading some of the comments I beginning to think I better start lifting some weights (huh)
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Youre right of course Nick. Ive got the adaptor without cooler and it looks like the same casting but must have something different inside.... However in Marks case fitting a hose should be even easier(woot)
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Hello Mark, cant you just cap the adaptor take offs temporarily until youre ready to splash out on the oil cooler? And with the GT6 engine what about a change of bearings - its really cheap and easy to do with the engine in the car. If you do it in time these sixes can go on for years with out the need for expensive regrinds.....
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yes if the choke lifting bar that sits under the piston is going back to the flat position and the piston is free the problem must be with the butterfly operation. Stick with it - this is the fun with resto projects! You just keep knocking down problems one after the other till youve either got a fantastic car or run out money and/or patience (woot)