glang
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Everything posted by glang
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I wonder if aftermarket ignition units are still failing early or maybe their reliabilty has improved as in other automotive electronics cos as I say mine has been fit n forget.....
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Hi JJ, I know you must have previously thought about electronic ignition but isnt it the answer? One set of points for 6 cylinders is asking a lot and I was always fiddling/inspecting/cleaning wondering if they were causing problems so I replaced em with a cheapy in-distributor unit and have never worried again. At the selling price you can keep a second unit spare if youre concerned about reliability.....
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does this page help: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htm
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Hi Chris, this is a photo from a recent thread that shows what you should see in the carb inlet with the choke fully on. The flat bar at the bottom rotates and lifts the piston, with its needle underneath, a little so making the mixture richer. At the same time a cam where the choke cable connects should rotate against the throttle mechanism opening it to increase the tickover. Have a look over both systems while operating the choke to make sure its all happening ok.....
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Hi, I'll be doing mine soon and will probably have the same issue. If thats the case I'll be pushing the seal in up to the internal face but making sure that the lip doesnt run in any groove possibly made by the previous seal....
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just to check: this procedure is for the early type diff which your herald should have and is identified by having a castellated nut/split pin arrangement....
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Youre right of course John but I love the originality and if I wanted to be safer would drive something as modern as possible.....
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Thanks John, but if the impact is so severe that the belt fails the steering column will have well n truly finished me off by then! Sometimes I do think about how bad an accident would be in the vitesse but then I also ride a motorbike.....
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Thanks thats exactly on the lines I was thinking about although dont know where I can find some of that stuff..... Did you have to fix it to the floor at the seatbelt anchorage points?
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For pretty much the same price I got an Exide EA755 (75Ah 630CCA) for my Vitesse which I believe has the same battery space available as your Herald. It squeezes in nicely being the same size as the one youre looking at except for the width at 270mm rather than 230mm. I did have to modify the fixing rods as they were too short but have been really pleased with its durability, cranking power and charge hold.....
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I have the original seatbelts fitted and wonder if anyone has come up with an easy way to make the clasp part of the belts rigid ie so theyre like the modern stalk type? It would make it so much easier to find and fasten them without having to go as far as fitting inertia reels.....
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job done! but I wouldnt go greasing it again anytime soon In fact now Im having doubts about doing mine.....
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The other thing is does it really matter? Would you dismantle the rear hubs and everything anyway? What about just pushing the seal in as far as possible, then slide the flinger along without making contact and getting on with enjoying driving it.....
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well my manual does talk about putting the seal in with the 'lips trailing' and if you look at the Rimmers picture here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005909 it does look directional......
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Reminds me that Id better do mine sometime soon! The seal certainly shouldnt touch the flinger which itself should be a mm or so clear of the housing....
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It looks like the seal should stick out a couple of mm but anyway as you tap it in it'll come to a stop against the internal shoulder.... Out of interest, was there much resistance as you originally pumped the grease in?
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Yes that gap does look a bit large. I wonder if the grease you have pumped in has pushed out the oil seal so that its in contact with the flinger when you tap that back into place. Looking at the drawing the seal should just protrude from the housing when it has been fully knocked home against an internal shoulder. If you can get the flinger back a bit you should be able to check the seal and with a flat edge tap it back in if necessary. The only risk is that with the movement the flinger might loosen on the shaft.....
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Yes I wouldnt rush into fitting an electric fan as results on here are pretty mixed. In many cases this could be down to the after market fans used as they are woefully under powered. For example modern vehicles use electric fans usually rated at 250+ watts and often in pairs while the chinese cheapies on Ebay are rated at 80watts.......
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Dont forget that waterless coolant doesnt give extra cooling - your engine will still overheat just not boil over. My personal feeling is that boiling over is a good thing because it clearly indicates overheating and forces you to do something about it rather than drive on and risk some major damage.....
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+1 yes you need take off the top cover of each carb to check the diaphragms are correctly located on both the pistons and carb bodies. Hopefully the diaphragm itself hasnt been damaged. Also just noticed that on my carbs (admittedly early version) the covers are installed 180 deg round the other way.....
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Dont know about Dinitrol its really lubrication you want so I think working a thick grease into the leaves as much as possible and coating the whole thing is the best you can do with it. If the drum binds and then releases as you spin it then its definitely oval which is not unusual over time and heat with cast iron. Mine were the same so I took em to a local engineering shop who skimmed the braking surfaces on a lathe for 25quid the pair. The improvement was 100% but they did say it was a difficult job to do perfectly without the specialised equipment. Looks like your jobs are multiplying but thats always the way 😀
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orrrrr how about my budget option: spray on polyurethane foam! I then topped off the top of the cover with an extra layer of stuck on secondhand carpet all of which has been pretty effective.
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It sounds like the splines have worn on the stud and possibly the hole in the hub and now theres no grip between them. Hopefully a new stud will be able to engage with them and lock in. With the wheel and drum removed I put the stud in place and then screw on the nut until it almost makes contact with the hub (you might need some sort of spacer if you come to the end of the threaded part) then I gently wiggle the stud/nut to get the splines engage before I do up the nut further to pull the stud into place. Once it is locked you can then undo the nut and reassemble everything as normal. If you do end up taking off the hub, for example if the splines are too worn, you must use a proper puller and definitely not a 2 leg one as the hubs bend much easier than you would think.....
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Sorry, correction, its a copper washer between the hoses and rear brake slave cylinders. The fronts have a normal coupler each end of the hoses to connect to the brake lines.
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Mine are copper - cant see fibre being used with hydraulic pressure....