glang
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Everything posted by glang
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Bloomin Chinese (mad)
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well its a bit fiddly but you can remove the bowls off the bottom of the carbs and then blow into each carb by its fuel inlet (after removing the fuel pipe of course) then you raise the float up gently by hand until at the correct level it closes the needle valve and you can no longer blow air through. If you can continue to blow something is wrong..... With the floats its unlikely that both have failed so I wouldnt be in a rush to replace them just yet. If the needle valves work correctly and at the right float level the next stage is probably to remove the carbs completely as its quite difficult to work on their underside in situ. Then closely inspect the floats for possible punctures shaking them to see if petrol has entered inside (the idea being that if it leaks it wont float and do its job). As an aside I assume you havent got an electric fuel pump fitted which could be overpowering the needle valves?
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I used one of these cheap jobbies to replace all the original lines on my vit with no problems or leaks. I wouldnt recommend it for a garage as there might be easier to use items but as I wont be using it again for another 40 odd years, as always, I wanted to spend the minimum 🙂
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well its got to be float/needle valve related. Either: dirt in the valves/some other problem with them so not sealing properly or floats not working/poorly adjusted. I would revise the system again checking by blowing through the valves in situ that they seal when the floats are raised by hand as well as closely inspecting the floats for punctures, free movement and correct height setting. Also you should look for any dirt in the bowls and in your fuel pump filter as an indication to the cleanliness of the fuel supply system. Stick with it as it cant be anything too serious.....
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You have to compare like for like: the Gunson stuff is cheap and would be no good for a workshop using the equipment day in day out. I personally want to spend as little as possible on this stuff as I use it just once in a while and have better things to spend me money on like petrol (woot)
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Hi MarkE, a disadvantage aside from the cost is the complexity/fragility of that bit of kit - more to go wrong/break than a Gunson or, even more so, your ear! It looks like a rubber cone fitting similar to a Gunson so should fit a very wide range of carbs.....
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Ahhhh, does it look like there was a screen at one time? Mine was held in place by small metal fingers that are part of the sump so maybe you can see these still? I wouldnt have said its critical as its only to stop fairly large items which shouldnt be there anyway but hopefully a Herald expert will be along soon....
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Ahhhh, does it look like there was a screen at one time? Mine was held in place by small metal fingers that are part of the sump so maybe you can see these still? I wouldnt have said its critical as its only to stop fairly large items which shouldnt be there anyway but hopefully a Herald expert will be along soon....
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I dont know about the herald but my Vitesse had the original pump without stainer. Any large debris was stopped by a screen fitted over the top of the sump however Ive now fitted the newer larger capacity pump which does come with its own built in strainer. In one way the original system might be better as the screen has a much larger surface area than a pump one so could be less prone to becoming blocked over time.....
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I dont know about the herald but my Vitesse had the original pump without stainer. Any large debris was stopped by a screen fitted over the top of the sump however Ive now fitted the newer larger capacity pump which does come with its own built in strainer. In one way the original system might be better as the screen has a much larger surface area than a pump one so could be less prone to becoming blocked over time.....
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Agree, theyre too bulky. I went with a MK2 stainless standard system on my MK1 Vit cos it was bigger bore and didnt have the centre box. For me the sound is just right, throaty without being intrusive
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Hi thirsty, yes definitely tackle all the easier obvious options first. However if you do decide to take off the sump (which will probably require the engine mounts undoing to lift it up a few inches) why not inspect a bearing or two while your at it? Big ends usually wear fastest and you might just see the copper underlayer beginning to show through the white metal. Of course cleanliness is essential as is putting everything back as was and with correct torques...
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My original pump was out of tolerance and the cost difference of the bigger one is negligeable so I wacked it in, after all you cant have too much oil can you? Has your GT6 got an uprated oil relief valve spring cos my manual says the standard one should dump at 45 - 55psi.....
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I cant see it being a relief valve problem as the pressure does reach 60psi when cold so the spring must be good. I think its more likely to be worn crank bearings/oil pump and wonder how miles its done? Ive just done both on my vitesse at only 65000 genuine miles with the engine in the car and using the uprated oil pump. I caught the bearings just at the right time and now Im getting a decent pressure even on hot tick over
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ummm yes that would explain low compression although I would have expected to find it on both cylinders. Anyway I suppose you'll check the head for flatness and also grind the valves before reassembly?
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Mine does exactly this if I forget to put in the Millers VSP octane/lead petrol additive. When dosed correctly it runs great with no need to retard the ignition timing from the standard setting.....
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It does sound like you're closing in the problem although Ive another possibility to throw in: its a long shot but I see theres also different pulleys available, could you somehow have the wrong one fitted.....
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I wouldnt have expected misalignment to have caused cracking but more like heavier wear on the edges of the vee belt however is it possible that you have the wrong water pump fitted? I know theres several different types available but dont know what the differences are.....
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This problem is very common in the triumph sixes and I dont think the fuel line causes it as its the fuel in the carb bowls that is used for the starting and running afterwards for quite a while on tickover. I suppose it could be vaporisation in the bowls but where does all that fuel vapour go? This could be tested by refilling the bowls with the manual fuel pump lever (if your model has one) before doing a hot restart to see if theres any improvement. However if the compression, timing and carb adjustments are all ok I suspect its down to the high temp in the engine/engine bay affecting the combustion process so on my vitesse Im working on reducing it as much as possible. This means a monster electric cooling fan that will run on without the ignition, exhaust manifold wrap and if possible additional air venting (ideally in the top of the bonnet but this would be the last step).
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hi Mike, although a drain plug is a nice thing to have I would be very careful with the warranty you have on the diff. Speak to the supplier first to see what they say but I suspect they wont like the idea very much. Maybe they could do it but having suffered a catastrophic failure on a BL recon diff many moons ago I would certainly value a valid warranty over a drain plug anyday.....
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ouch! Unless they were left in the gearbox from a previous failure and subsequent rebuild (highly unlikely) I would be rather concerned. Is it noisy in low gears but relatively quiet in 4th? If it is the input to mainshaft bearing as Scrapman suggests you risk damaging them particularly the mainshaft tip which will make the rebuild more difficult and of course expensive.....
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Hi Mike, Ive got a few points that might help you: This supplier is one of the biggest and most reputable there is, The components you want are rather difficult and so uneconomical to produce in small numbers so any on offer can only be original equipment and as such are the best quality you can get, The only risk is that they might be used and not new (they have been out of production for years) but this should be fairly easy to see from the condition of the teeth etc. Graham
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Ive never seen anything that could explain its appearance and the only ideas Ive got are: have the valves been changed at some time and this one is different some how, theres a crack between that cylinder and the next or the gasket has leaked there and its affected the valve, water has leaked in via the head gasket and affected the valve.... Does the old gasket give any clues?
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Theres a few design weaknesses in these engines but Ive never heard of the headgaskets being one of them and never suffered a failure on 3 different models. Of course if your driving style is rather more ahem agressive than mine or youve upped the compression significantly then you're best off waiting for a reply from one of 'tuners' on here... When I mentioned the mixture I meant does the carbon build up look the same on all cylinders? With the valve it does look different.... is there any marking on the piston top of the same cylinder?
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cant really see what valve problem youre talking about in the picture. Do you mean what looks like impact damage on the 3rd valve from top? Also have all the cylinders been running with the same correct fuel mixture because the carbon build up looks to be different on some..... Will you be grinding in the valves while youve got the head off? Worth doing if not done recently and you can clean and closely inspect all areas better as well. The down side is the possible loss of the ingrained lead protection of the seats but the additive your using should do the job anyway. With the head gasket these low power engines are not prone to blowing them (unless loose of course....) so I dont think the make is critical as long as you get it from somewhere reputable.