BrendanD
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Everything posted by BrendanD
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Spitfires and GT6s (with strombergs) have their carburettor fuel inputs at opposite ends, this would seem to prevent OS bulkhead mounting of a fuel pump on a GT6, as there would be a long run past the hot manifold....
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OK Chris, I'll have a look.
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As I have a brake servo there is no room on the bulkhead by the battery. I may investigate moving it forward on the engine valance to sit beneath the alternator, or finding a bracket and mounting it off the blanking plate has has been suggested. I have some rubber insulating mounts from the facet.
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OK, would be easiest, just have to disconnect once in a while to get down and change the filter...
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I have the 2.5PSI square Facet so it won't be over pressure, just noisy. Still too noisy for the boot. The Hulco is a suction pump and not designed to be boot mounted.
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OK, suggestions please. My car as currently set up has an oil cooler with braided hoses and a thermostat in line, black painted metal engine valances (the louvred ones) and a Facet electric pump fixed to the valance opposite the place for the mechanical pump. The rest of the fuel line is standard. A garage fixed this there after I left the car with them for a week to sort the car on a RR (and it wasn't getting enough fuel from the mech one). The mech pump fixing is blanked off. Two problems: 1. The Facet is horribly noisy... tap tap tap tap.... as soon as it gets warm. 2. In order to get at the oil filter to unscrew it, I'd have to remove the fuel pump.... as there just isn't space to get a hand down there. So I now have a Hulco to fit, which is bigger than the Facet, plus a land rover inertia switch. I've also got plenty of fuel line both metal and rubber. So where have people mounted their engine bay electric pumps and how have they routed their lines? I have Stromberg carbs with forward entry for fuel and a brake servo taking up space next to the battery on the bulkhead. Thanks!
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Spitfires should have black hoods.... Seats look great btw!
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John, I think you are asking too little....
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I have HS4 experience on the Spit 1500, and Strom 150s on my GT6. Both sets of carbs were rebuilt by me (and in the case of the SUs, several times over 10 years). When set up properly, the Strombergs are every bit as reliable as the SUs, and deliver a nice 3.5% CO at idle and 5.5% flat out @100bhp on my stock 2 Litre six. The SUs on the spitfire however intermittently decide to spit petrol out of the float chambers, despite all my efforts over the years (new lines, tank seal, flushing ++++, filters, every type of needle valve and float known to man (currently ethanol resistant floats and viton tipped valves). Give me Strombergs any day..... - The Stromberg's achilles heel is the choke disc. Once that wears you can never get the mixture right, and a NOS one or swap from a better carb is the only cure. Even the 'O' ring on the needle adjustment can be changed with care, and the rubber seals on the spindles are a much better solution than the SU. - SUs are an agricultural design by comparison, and the spindles run directly in the soft metal body. Any more than slight wear on the brass spindle will wreck the body and its off for a rebushing in a machine shop (I would source a new carb in preference). The wax stats and poppet valves need to be got rid of as a matter of course. SUs allow a simple needle swap on a 1500 for breathing upgrades (AAT/AAQ), but if you're fitting to a 6 you'll need a rolling road anyway, and they can and will profile the existing needles anyway.
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Getting access to main wiring harness in dash
BrendanD replied to SteveSpitfire1500's topic in Electrical
Yes, you need to strip off a few things. It ALL comes apart pretty easily, but to get good access to the loom and see what's what I would do the following: Remove the heater knobs with a small allen key. undo 4 screws and lift out centre panel. undo small bolts at either end and screws at back to remove parcel trays. That should do it, but if you want more: H frame comes out with screws at top and bolts at bottom. Steering wheel comes off with bolt at centre and a gentle tap with a hammer The Wooden dash will come off by some bolts behind, and releasing the choke cable at the engine end. You really should have a workshop manual, or at very least a Haynes... -
I had one go after only 4,000 miles. Took the new driveshaft with it. I think it's due to rubbish bearings myself... Have swapped to NOS Unipart ones.
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Perfect way to use an OD Wim.
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Could be the oil level yes.
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I cleaned mine out before I fitted it ( as a conversion) a few years ago. FULL of gunk. Yes the filters are good, but that doesn't mean they don't get full up with stuff and that may be restricting your flow.
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Oh yes, they can do that....
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Can't recall have you stripped apart the filters and cleaned them thoroughly? Probably the only thing you can do with an OD before taking it out and sending it off for repair...
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This explains how. doesn't look to difficult. http://www.szott.com/lotusinfo/Smith-jaeger_speedo_repair.pdf It's on the GT6. It's just out without a reason as I've got standard diff, OD and equivalent diameter tyres (175/70 rather than 155/80).
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Mine reads 80 when I'm doing 90..... I must get it out and re calibrate it!
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When I did this in 1988 to my Herald 13/60 I used some heavy duty junction boxes + heavy duty wire and sealed it all inside a small electrical project box from Maplin.
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My Facet pump (£80) makes a huge racket when it gets hot. Like shaking a spray can..... Very annoying.
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Don't throw it out... pull it apart and check it out first. doesn't take much to drop the sump and check. At worst you'll have to find a new 'core' block and crank before reconditioning it.
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What an excellent find... Well done. Personally I dislike minilites. I have revolutions on the Spitfire, but to be honest i think i marginally prefer the original wheels.
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If you have a spark at the right time, with fuel in a reasonable mix and compression in the cylinders it should start. Start with simplest things and get more complicated. So check spark, fuel, ignition timing, fuel mix (carbs), compression in order. fuel unpacks as pump working? Fuel in float chambers? Fuel getting into the jet?
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Yes crank the engine. My suggestion would be: check for a spark. Pull off no 1 lead and hold it near the plug with someone cranking. If a spark then check fuel (less messy that way round)
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Nope, unscrew a line and see if it pumps. It should fill a jar in a minute or so. If you have fuel, do you have a spark?