BrendanD
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Everything posted by BrendanD
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Brilliant. Thanks... obvious really, but hadn't occurred as I hadn't removed the trim panel, just loosened it as it has a speaker in it. I managed to snag a completely new still in a box rear seat in plastic from ebay. Finishes the back of the car nicely :) Better still, it was £200 less than the one that sold the week before 8) Will post some pictures. Just need to get my saggy rear boards re-done...
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I have a friendly old school local mechanic who fine tunes with a CO meter for me.
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Hi, Spent about 2 hrs yesterday trying to get the 'rests' in place on the wheel arches... One of the worst jobs ever. A metal piece bolts inside the quarter trim, holes need then to be made in the trim to allow the vinyl covered rests to bolt through. The problem is these are held by short quite soft bolts, which only bite when exactly square to the threaded hole in the metal spacer. Getting these to bite through the trim, with all lined up and trying to get at them from inside the rest is absolutely impossible.... I can only get a small screwdriver with socket on the end in place before lining up the bolt, but it allows the head to move and doesn't hold the bolt steady, hence it just gets rounded off. :-( Any ideas? I have a big hole in my trim now and no rest fixed over it :o This has to be one of the worst jobs Ive found on a triumph, even worse than squeezing in rear trunnion bearings that are too big!
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Didn't you say they were 150cds rather than 150cd?
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9113 wrote: What makes these good carbs to have? Reliability? Cheers! :) Simpler, more reliable and easier to adjust, as they don't have all the 'emissions' stuff on them...
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Good. Never seen a single carb on a 6 pot..... Just get your existing carbs sorted. They work well on a standard tune engine.
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Early Vitesse 2L Mk 1 engine Ignore the body things as they refer to the spitfire into which the Vitesse engine has been fitted. Same carb on Mk1 GT6 and Vitesse no A3281, but double check the application with the supplier
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Well you know already that you have a Stromberg CDS 150 pair. Which one precisely is the question. They should have a metal tag on them with a number, but that might have gone AWOL. An engine number will give an indication of what carbs would go with the engine. GT6 Mk 1/2 or a 2000 saloon
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Benny they look awful..... Park Lane classics do the foams for £160 a pair, and the covers in vinyl for £135 both seats. Top quality stuff. There's also a guy who advertises in the 'Courier' who does both seats for £285 fitted, but doesn't use the same profiled foams. result is OK though.
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What about a nice chrome one like the Mk1?
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npanne wrote:Right - so Late (post-FH50000) should have the longer shafts, and therefore be directly compatible with the late GT6 (non-roto, obviously) shafts? Yes. They are the same.
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Sure - some have more time than others... ;)
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7112 wrote:Nothing beats doing it yourself though Brendan. Yes, driving the car rather than staring at it in bits in the garage... I'm not averse to doing some of my own work (for example I have a fuel gauge in pieces on my desk now, awaiting transplanting the electrical part into my existing one), but to be honest I'd rather be out for the day in it when i have some precious spare time...
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Park Lane Classics = £59 Newton Commercial = £102 THE PAIR. Go for the source. Moss and Rimmers are the most expensive suppliers. Can personally vouch for the quality of Park Lane... and you won't get that with an hour or two of fettling.
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In my experience the original door cards last very well UNTIL the door glass weather seals fail OR someone removes the plastic sheet that should sit inside the door card.....
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Wim, Silicone brake fluid is your friend when it comes to bulkhead paint...... It softens the pedal a bit, but combine it with braided hoses, which firm the pedal and it's about the same.
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I use my car all the year round, and I've found that by running waxoyl INSIDE the quarter valance (between the skins) when new and then painting it regularly over the engine side face, they can last 10 years or more. I've never like the look of fibreglass ones. First thing I ditched.
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Never had a problem with the Heritage Front quarters that Paddock provide. Been through 6 of them over the past 20 years...
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Yep.. :)
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There is an internal 'bracket' to which sits inside the door, with the outer handle bolted through it. It holds the door skin in a sandwich and holds the handle onto the door..
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Bl**dy Hell they look UGLY......
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Ah Bill, Good point. I have a J on mine too. The 'click' from the J type solenoid can be quite subtle...
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Quote:I've recently purchased a GT6 with J Type overdrive fitted and i'm new to classic car ownership. It's just come back from the garage after an MOT and I've noticed the overdrive only works very occasionally and only when in 3rd. -----This is probably due to worn wiring in the stick. Its only making intermittent contact, and when in 4th gear its being 'pulled' and making no contact. Its a common problem and you need to replace the wiring that runs up the inside of the stick... (tunnel cover off I'm afraid.) Quote:When I collected the car from the MOT the OD switch was left "in". Presumably the garage drove the car in reverse at some point. Can this harm the OD unit if the switch is left in this position?-----No, so long as the OD inhibitor switch is working properly. It stop OD being engaged in gears other than 3 and 4. Reversing with OD actually on will severely damage the OD unit. So hopefully no harm done in your case. Quote:Another worry I have is that there's quite a lot of white smoke/steam coming out of the exhaust even when the car has been run at working temp. for a while. Is this normal during cold weather , or does it indicate a problem?----Pretty normal in colder weather. I would only worry if it blows 'clouds' of white smoke on revving.
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I had this problem in 2012. I went over everything, plugs, jets, floats, needle valves, filters, fuel tank and lines, ignition..... Exactly the same symptoms. Turned out the fuel pump had an intermittent fault. One of the valves was breaking from its mount. It meant that when set the fuel was too low in the bowl, when it worked properly, it overfilled the bowl. This combined with needle after needle that leaked confused the issue. In the end the lest set of needle valves and a new fuel pump (because it had finally failed totally) solved the problem. The problem. A combination of intermittent faults combined with an inability to set the carbs properly. My GT6 had a similar intermittent fault on its 'new' pump. every so often the arm slipped off the cam, so no fuel. A NOS pump solved the problem (thicker arm).
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rotoflex wrote:You don't have to swap out the diff when you do the trans & propshaft. You may wish to save that shopping trip & wrestling match for later. Don't forget you will also need OD wiring haness, relay, extra inhibitor switch on trans, & OD activation switch. and a right angle drive for the speedo cable