BrendanD

Dennis Benson was selling a NOS one a few months ago...

Well good luck with it. Of course with a 123 Tune ignition you can get an ignition profile to suit your cam...

Well good luck with it. Of course with a 123 Tune ignition you can get an ignition profile to suit your cam...

Eeek... So thats what was causing your 'tapping noise' and scoring on the bore/ piston damage. Looks like a ring seized then freed itself up. I wouldn't fiddle with camshafts to be honest. A good Mk3 engine with good fuelling and an accurate spark pulls really well. My new Mk 3 had a stock set up and was greatly improved by electronic ignition (a 123) refurbed NOS carbs and an electric fuel pump. I think once you start going down cams/needles/ manifolds you are in for a lot of pain... Regards Brendan

Eeek... So thats what was causing your 'tapping noise' and scoring on the bore/ piston damage. Looks like a ring seized then freed itself up. I wouldn't fiddle with camshafts to be honest. A good Mk3 engine with good fuelling and an accurate spark pulls really well. My new Mk 3 had a stock set up and was greatly improved by electronic ignition (a 123) refurbed NOS carbs and an electric fuel pump. I think once you start going down cams/needles/ manifolds you are in for a lot of pain... Regards Brendan

If the disc is worn though its a big problem. They are not obtainable. I had a permanently rich running carb as a result of this and had to go to a NOS US-spec CD150 SEV pair from the carburettor hospital...

Engine valances

Try Spitfire Graveyard?

Canley's do stainless steel pistons..

Wim I use silicon fluid. I know some people think it feels spongy, but its much kinder on the seals and it doesn't wreck your paint!

Yep, been there. I think its to do with the spacers myself... i've also become obessional with the torque wrench.

they are fine, I have had one on my spit for 5 years

Mine did just that. It turned out that the cable to the switch was worn and shorting out on the stick only when hot in 3rd.....

2597 wrote: Noticed a couple of copper washers on solenoid. To remove solenoid the to check above, do i have to drop gbox oil? Thanks Nope.

Just get someone to wobble the steering while you look at it. Could be play in the steering column joint, the rack or the rack mounts..

I second Chris' views on the Hulco v the Facet solid state. I had the Facet, but the tapping drove me nuts so fitted a Hulco instead. Silent...

2880 wrote:Evening all ! Hi Sam, comments below. Got the GT6 out today & unfortunately it drove like a bag of shite. I think it's running a little rich as when you let off the throttle from around 3500 - 4000 I got a few pops / bangs. It also seems to hesitate on acceleration. Is it possible to adjust the mixture on the CDSE stromberg carbs ? According to my manual, there should be a mixture screw visible from the underside of the carb, I've just got a blank installed where they reference. Yes but with a special allen key type tool from the top via the dash pot - however you shouldn't need to if it was running ok. Other info / symptoms I've recently fitted a HUCO electric fuel pump, the output should be regulated at 2.1PSI. Is there any possibility it would be putting out more ? unlikely, I have a hulco and its fine. What would be the effect of putting in too much damper oil ? I topped both carb dampers up today. Don't think I put too much in, but could be worth noting. nothing Can the starter box area of the CDSE stromberg carb be rebuilt ? I'm convinced there's a small leak around here as it's very discolored with fuel. the starter box can be disassembled and cleaned. you'll need a new gasket. they can get worn and continually leak fuel into the carb causing too rich a mixture. the metal disc inside is not obtainable so you'd need a 'good' used one. What would be the symptoms of the emission control bit on the side of the CDSE carb failing ? Would this cause the mixture to richen ? No, the opposite. If the temp compensator sticks open it weakens the mix at idle and causes erratic running. ARE YOU SURE its running rich? I can replicate the issue statically, by moving the throttle control arm on the actual carbs, after revving up the back carb drips fuel out of the air filter quite a bit for around 20 seconds or so. Never happened before. You have a sticking needle valve and the float chamber is flooding!!! Would you guys go for a rebuild ? Or I'm tempted by a set of CD175 stromberg carbs. Obviously just putting on bigger carbs won't isn't the sole answer for more power, but how much of a difference might I see ? NONE on a standard engine - don't even go there. Lot of questions I know, however it's easier for me to put it all up now. To hopefully come to the solution quicker. There's a few photo's attached to help. Thanks in advance, Sam. Sam, lots of people will say 'ditch the strombergs' and get SUs fitted. I like the Strombergs and I refurbished mine quite easily with a kit. You could also get a refurbed set for £275 from Andrew Turner. I would say you have a combination of issues, but most likely to start with a sticking needle valve.

All OD problems are electrical until PROVEN otherwise!!

replace them... and make sure the plastic sheet is in place behind them.

replace them... and make sure the plastic sheet is in place behind them.

The worst job in the world... I feel your pain..

I like the 5.5J steel wheels. 'almost' stock but a Slighlty more solid stance... Put 175/70s on them and no problem.

The HE applies to all engines of UK spec. Domed pistons came in a KE20000 and above as Triumph started using the 2.5 head to standardise, the pistons needing to be domed to maintain the CR.

No good for me.. too long.

I'll have them for my 1500 if they don't go to Louis. B