BrendanD
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Everything posted by BrendanD
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Looks shagged to me.... maybe the burring is preventing the engagement of the shaft with the flywheel? so long as you have a good earth and clean connections, I would change the starter motor (its not repairable).
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Take the starter off and check the gear at the tip slides backwards and forwards freely. They should be lubricated with graphite not oil
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Hi, an update on this... As I had no opportunity to acquire a new pump I had to take the 'temporarily repaired' pump to the Yorkshire dales at Easter. Unfortunately (in spite of looking intact) it progressively failed to deliver at higher revs so we ended up doing the last 100 miles home courtesy of the RAC (disappointed) I now have a Facet electrical pump and all is well. except.... when the car gets hot (not engine temp, but generally) after a good run / in traffic, the pump starts making an awful 'clicking' racket that drives me bonkers... is this usual??
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Ohh thats 'up North' :)
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8735 wrote: At least i know the 6's heater will be like toast in winter :) Winter/summer, on/off, it will be like toast :)
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Sounds fine to me..
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I'm fitting an electronic pump to mine. Although the mechanical pump has been put back together it fails to deliver over 3500 rpm...
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OK, sorry have been busy. I assume this is the guy who advertises as 'SEATS' in various mags. I used him for a GT6 a few years ago. Leather facing and PVC backs. A good job. he is quite a bit cheaper than the usual suppliers, but he does not use purpose cut foams, preferring to 'stuff' extra in on top. The look is Ok, but they are not as good as the original for comfort.
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Plan on doing pretty much the same. I'm putting a spare pump in the boot...
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Thanks Guys Well I've got a temporary fix for the weekend (600 mile trip planned), so hope it holds... For next week I've picked up a 'glass bowl' AC Delco pump as it has replaceable decent parts and you can see whats going on... I just don't feel comfortable with an electric pump... Funny for the first 22 years of driving triumphs I never had a single fuel pump problem, but they have let me down 4 times in two years now..
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OK, dismantled it. Its a NOS 'old EU' Italian one without a manual lever (I think Moprod). All is fine except the 'output' valve had fallen apart. The valves consist of just a plastic disc held by a small spring against a brass ring which is pushed into a hole in the body. The brass ring is not at all a tight fit... I've re-assembled it and had a tap at it with a hammer and screwdriver to try and burr it a bit, but its not something I want to rely on! Was there perhaps some glue that's been dissolved by bloody ethanol??? Any ideas? And any suggestions for a decent mechanical pump?
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A frustrating day.... Planning on taking the GT6 Mk3 from London to Yorkshire for the Easter weekend. Went out to try and get the new exhaust mounts fitted, but failed (another story).. car died on the way home, started again after 20 mins fiddling. Died again after 10 mins, kept starting a bit then dropping off again. Tools out with help of a passing Vespa rider, dry plugs, spark. No fuel pumping... then a weak intermittent pulse. It was enough to get me home a mile though. This is the 2nd pump in 4 months, and it was a NOS one. The first one had a 'thin' actuating lever that kept falling off the cam, god knows whats up with this one, but I somehow need to get it fixed tomorrow whilst juggling work :-((( (we only have Triumphs and the Spitfire needs a new diff)
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When we had a Saab I only used the cruise control in long 'average' speed limit sections on the motorway.
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Big fan of decent shocks (I have GAZ) and 330lb springs on the GT6. Transforms the car from a floating barge into something fun to drive but not bone rattling!
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I had the same problem. PO had fitted a new pump. stopped working on the Mall, right outside Buckingham Palace. Caused some flurry of armed police activity!
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Its the nut on the side of the block under the distributor pedestal. I would simply check that the spring is not broken and that the plunger is clean, moving and not jammed open. see here for a useful diagram: http://www.triumphexp.com/phorum/read.php?2,922035 I wouldn't fiddle with shims etc, your oil pressure problem is most likely due to bearing tolerances (cam as well as crank) and it will need a strip and examination. Since its got to come out anyway to fix the seal, I'd wait till then. JY had my engine out last year, replaced both crank oil seals, put on a new head, changing thust washers, replaced the sump bridge piece and examined the bores and crank bearings which were fine. The PO had a huge oil leak(s) which he had been putting up with.... whole underside of the car was plastered in oil.... that and the shot gearbox, whining diff, knackered bearings all round, loose prop etc and numerous jobs for the helicoil made me quite glad of JY's work. All sorted now.
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I agree with Danny. The little bumpers on the Mk 1 and 2 are a bit cluttered but the Mk3 has cleaner lines with the bumper.
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7956 wrote: Would love to do a rebuild myself, however the car lives on the street and the wife is already annoyed at the amount of space I take up with car parts in the house! Rebuilding an engine in the kitchen would probably tip her over the edge. Brendan, I'm in SW12, would be nice to meet a fellow owner and compare. Will drop you a PM. Ha... mine lives in an underground car park, but I know the feeling! Nice roomy garages/workshops are pretty rare in London! I have self store for the parts :-) Yes lets meet up. btw - John Yarnell will sort this for you, but worth checking the oil pressure relief valve I agree.
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Isn't that normal for an MG ? :P
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Yes, good recommendation. I've been there once. Helpful, but very 'TR' if you know what I mean ;)
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Hi Simon, I'm also in South London with a GT6 Mk3. Mine runs 80 psi at start cold pressure Hot pressure at 3000 65psi Hot pressure at idle off motorway 20psi Do you have a knackered oil pump or worn bearings though? Does it smoke, or just lose oil through the rear crankshaft oil seal? Does it rattle from the big ends? What's the crankshaft end float like? Probably best to get it out and examined though. I would avoid a 'drive in' rebuild service... My recommendations would be with JY Classics in Gt Missenden (only a 90 min trip from SE London). John can get it out and strip it before telling you what needs doing. Or much more local, I use FRL Motor services in New Cross. Fred the owner is keen on classics and an old school mechanic. (It's on google). He's not a triumph expert though. Avoid Quiller in Woolwich.... Would be nice to compare cars some time (I'm in Se16). Regards Brendan
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Its in the workshop manual. But basically you need to slip a 0.10 feeler between the fast idle cam and the adjustment screw on both carbs, so they idle equally on choke. Makes a big difference.
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Mark you have a bit missing alongside the handbrake? PS there are a used pair on ebay at present...
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I feel the opposite. Keeping a can of Dot 5 in the boot is no problem, it tucks in the side of the rear wing. I had the fluid changed in the Spit after 9 years, never needed bleeding and no issues apart from a slightly leaking master cylinder at 4 years, just felt it was due a change. I used it after a complete brake refurb, new lines, cylinders and goodridge hoses. After 9 years and 25,000 miles I just changed the seals and fluid. The firmer pedal is restored by using the stainless braided hoses which are less extensible. I can't imagine how many times i would have needed to have had the bulkhead stripped and repainted in that time. £50 of fluid probably paid for itself more than 10 times over...
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Park Lane Classics - much cheaper than Newton Commercial..