cnicholson
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Everything posted by cnicholson
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thanks guys i like the idea of using the lathe to polish it up again. sods law i have just finished putting the new tunnel and carpets in when i spotted the leak!
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is it easy to change the seal on the rear of the overdrive on a spitfire? Hoping its not a engine box out job....
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can i check i am still on the list for a pair of front wings. If so when is payment wanted? thanks Carl Nicholson
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this was the worst job ever when I did mine a few years ago, i took me about 4 days to do them. the seals where of such a poor quality that they never quite sat right, and now they need doing again as they have snagged in the door. will be trying the seals from baines!
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this was the worst job ever when I did mine a few years ago, i took me about 4 days to do them. the seals where of such a poor quality that they never quite sat right, and now they need doing again as they have snagged in the door. will be trying the seals from baines!
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i am putting a later j type single rail overdrive into an early mk4 spitfire, do i need a relay in the circuit to hold the overdrive on? or is it wire without relay? a diagram would not go a mis either. thanks
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Newbie observations...
cnicholson replied to Richard_M's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
and so the sat nav continues to be a point of contention. I found it rather ironic that i was late marshaling the badgers holt stop because i entrusted the wife to program the sat nav....... only trouble was is that there's a badgers holt road in Okehampton, so I ended up joining the bulk of the convoy on route to the control which was good fun in the tr6. I can't really blame the Mrs though i should have known better than to go against my instinct and ignore the stupid machine. Here in lies the moral sat navs are useful for trunking across the country like a sheep, speed awareness, and the contours of unfamiliar roads, and they can get you out of the mire when late, but the road book is probably the best tool. The best thing i could have done when i did it in 2012 was to draw the route onto a large scale map, so that when lost it would have been easier to get back on route. This would have been even better if i could have sat down with somebody who knew the route at the drivers meeting or a local club meeting. I will hopefully be able to do the next one in the TR6, i'm fairly sure i will need a co driver though as I can't see the Mrs wanting to go through the experience without the luxury of a rear seat to sleep on.... Above all well done for those that tried, and a very big well done for the organizer's without which it simply would not happen. -
have sourced a 1500 flywheel to go with the box including clutch pressure plate etc so going that route now.... thanks for confirming the bits needed
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Hi, i am fitting a single rail 1500 overdrive to an early mk4 1300 spitfire, however the clutch that was fitted was the 10 spline friction plate, and i need to fit the 20 spline clutch to match the overdrive box. Do i need to change the flywheel to match the clutch, or can i use the 20 spline friction plate in the 10 spline pressure plate? opinions and pearls of wisdom welcome....
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I think my m1 v2.2 used to have a mod that may have controled the fan but i removed it as it was very badly bodged, as i dont use the megasquirt to run the coils i kind of assume there should be some spare outputs?
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I will get some pictures sorted soon, i think the saloon is on speed density at present, but have not really touched the tune on it yet. I have not managed to work out if i can drive the fan realy from the megasquirt to control the elctric fan, i know there are spare outputs on the realy board but i don't know if it can be done or if i will fry the megasquirt trying. some help would be appreciated on this bit.
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many thanks for the replies, Ted have you got a link to the list as when you enlarge it, it becomes un-readable. thanks p.s. hope you are keeping well.
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after a year of working away on my tr6 i finally finished converting the saloon to megasquirt EFI this weekend, all seems to be going well started on 2nd attempt, just the usual amount of fine tuning to do now.... Many thakns are owed to Paul Brooks and Nick Jones of which i would have really struggled. The tr6 now has a few hundred miles on the clock and is starting to behave itself.
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i have a set of manual pedals and a rebuilt overdrive box if your interested
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can anybody provide a link too, or a list of compatible oil filters for the mocal spin on adapters to fit a tr6 or 2.5 saloon please (sorry if already on here somewhere but i could not find it.)
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project update.... the car runs on full efi megasquirt..... just needs a good tune up, getting near to putting the interior back in and then considering an MOT.
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project update.... the car runs on full efi megasquirt..... just needs a good tune up, getting near to putting the interior back in and then considering an MOT.
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i see your point about the lean rich argument, other than it runs on carbs, so why would you only get the white very clean inlet and spark plug on cylinder number 4? you would expect it on 4, 5 and 6 this is surely a sign that something is wrong with the combustion in this chamber? when the head gaskets go on these how do they usually show? the head bolts where 9/16 from memory it looks completely original, I suspect it is the first time its had the head off it. another odd thing i noticed is that the water inlet by the pump has a copper sleeve was this standard design on the mk1 head?
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Hi, I have been helping a friend to fix his mk1 estate today, the symptoms where that the coolant was blowing back out of the expansion bottle, (new rad fitted and thermostat removed to no avail ((not by me)) So we took the head off and noticed no obvious sign of leaks on the head gasket, the bores look good, however one of the inlets (no4) looks white, if my memory serves me well this is sign of it being steam cleaned? any thoughts please I have advised that they get the head checked over for leaks and flatness before we consider re-assembly. this is the first time i have worked on the mk1 engine, so would be good to get opinions on this one.
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Quick update.... the engine turned of its own free will yesterday, sadly only on the starter motor for now. the mammoth task of soldering up the wires starts in earnest this week, the fuel lines are in, they jeust need securing to the chassis. not happy about the proximity of the fuel lines to the twin exhaust though
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ok i wussed out of the race cam, i will keep it in the loft until i get the urge to rebuild the top end of the PI when that goes to megasquirt (soon) knowing my luck that will probably already have a race cam in it when i get to it.... When i inserted the cam and torqued the head down tonight, i aligned the cam by rotating the engine to TDC with a vernier gauge (back and forward) and then by inserting the cam and rotating untill valves 11 and 12 where balanced between opening, as per the factory manual, is this still correct for a non standard cam though?I will carefully rotate the engine fully to make sure there are no valve collisions before i go any further, but the original timing marks do not fully correlate, like to check these things as i can not afford an engine rebuild.... the head was skimmed down to 7 thousands of the one that came of, decided to leave a tiny bit extra on, as you can't replace whats gone in future
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ok i wussed out of the race cam, i will keep it in the loft until i get the urge to rebuild the top end of the PI when that goes to megasquirt (soon) knowing my luck that will probably already have a race cam in it when i get to it.... When i inserted the cam and torqued the head down tonight, i aligned the cam by rotating the engine to TDC with a vernier gauge (back and forward) and then by inserting the cam and rotating untill valves 11 and 12 where balanced between opening, as per the factory manual, is this still correct for a non standard cam though?I will carefully rotate the engine fully to make sure there are no valve collisions before i go any further, but the original timing marks do not fully correlate, like to check these things as i can not afford an engine rebuild.... the head was skimmed down to 7 thousands of the one that came of, decided to leave a tiny bit extra on, as you can't replace whats gone in future
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the plot thickens tonight, i have finally got the old cam out, it turns out is is not very old at all, the cam has the following markings 777 IT Google has suggested it could be an Isky fast road or a Racetorations fast road cam, the question is do stick with it or go for the kent race cam, tempted to stick with what i found given that the engine sounded very sweet when parked it up 18 moths ago?
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this is the bit where you wish you had labelled the parts and bagged the bolts...... making steady progress in between rain showers, stripped the top end of the engine and pulled the camshaft out today, to find that the pistons are very new with immaculate bores, the cam is a bit of a mystery though it is stamped with 777 IT, my theory is that it is either an Isky fast road cam, or a Racetorations fast road cam (the car is an american import so it may have been rebuilt stateside, also the cam marks did not seem to line up as previous rebuilds have? The problem i have is do use the Kent cam race spec cam? or stick with the fast road cam? tempted to stick with the fast road one?
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this is the bit where you wish you had labelled the parts and bagged the bolts...... making steady progress in between rain showers, stripped the top end of the engine and pulled the camshaft out today, to find that the pistons are very new with immaculate bores, the cam is a bit of a mystery though it is stamped with 777 IT, my theory is that it is either an Isky fast road cam, or a Racetorations fast road cam (the car is an american import so it may have been rebuilt stateside, also the cam marks did not seem to line up as previous rebuilds have? The problem i have is do use the Kent cam race spec cam? or stick with the fast road cam? tempted to stick with the fast road one?