lancepar
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Everything posted by lancepar
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If your horn is not working, try this. Have a look at the joint between the column and the rack. There should be a braided wire to provide the negative continuity. Now slacken the pinch bolt securing the joint to the spline on the rack, spray some contact cleaner/penertrating fluid down the splines, grab the steering wheel and rock it gently in a rotating motion. Re-tighten the pinch bolt and I reckon this will restore your horn to normal. It did for mine anyway.
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My pressure relief valve some times sticks on cold start up and I know because the oil light doesn't go out. I remove it inspect it for wear, clean it and after refitting and starting engine, oil light goes out. No problem with a hot engine however.
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You might want to refit the door incase after removing and refitting the skin that the bottom corner does not stick out.
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Hi Stephen, I'm in Quarry Bank. I just re-read your message and realize you want to stop with Triumph, got you mixed up with someone else who was contemplating another makers engine. Sorry , link no longer available Lance
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Stephen, Worcester19 Are you in the Worcester area????????
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I aint bought anything. I have a biking matey that had an operation last year that means he cant bend to get in his Supra, I just thought it may be suitable to someone for a transplant.
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3ltr Toyota Supra
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Admin' please remove this message if it is not allowed. If anyone is after a non-triumph straight six and manual gearbox, send me a PM.
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As the guide from Baz. Plus Disconnect the battery otherwise if you have overdrive and expose the terminals from the gear knob, like I did, they touch together while fiddling and its no big deal but hearing the relay click in and out is a bit annoying. No pads on my car. I don't remove the seats if just removing the tunnel, just push them right back and cover them. I would probably only remove the pull out seat bases if taking out the gearbox. I remove the heater knobs and then the centre dash section leaving it hanging, this allows me access to the top dash support which are cap head and bolt on mine. Radio out. Fixiings at base of support removed from chassis. The support on mine is not to bad to remove but is a bugger to get back in. Remove carpet from foot wells and tunnel. Remove tunnel fixings, the original pressed washers are available from a guy in the midlands via ebay if you need any. On my car some of the fixings are from the engine bay side of the bulkhead, don't know if this is the norm. I struggled a bit to remove the tunnel over the gearlever, because although I removed the knob I didn't remove the gear lever and overdrive wiring. The gearlever comes off easily BTW. HTH
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If you have an overdrive car then the gear knob is held either side with screwed fixings, are they tight? (I could have said have you checked you don't have a loose knob but thought -- no) (naughty)
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Maybe after running low on fuel one of the carbs has sucked up some crud and blocked the main jet or blocked the needle valve for the float. I would start by running the engine and carefully remove a front plug cap then a rear plug cap one at time momentarily (don't give yourself a shock, insulate yourself). If it makes no difference to the running it's not firing on all cylinders and will indicate which carb may be blocked. It could also show up an ignition fault. Rule out the simple things first.
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Have a look at this word doc. See if it helps in setting up the carbs.
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What Clive said. The lever is threaded but the knob is not and is held in place by a threaded fitting either side, the one inside the knob (C30623) is a bit awkward to get on and tighten. In Rimmers image it is shown in the wrong place BTW.
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This is the OE, the coil in the pipe takes the flexing and it's held at the bell housing in a grommet and bracket. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/ImagePopUp.aspx?i=GRID005555
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Ditto what Danny said. Mine used to do the same if left unused, then once freed would work fine till the next extended unused period. I think its a build up of crud in the M/cylinder. Recently. Mine stopped sticking but the bite position went down as well, so I stripped both cylinders and you should have seen the state of the fluid that came out of the m/cylinder. After a thorough clean and reassembly, the system was loosing pressure. (not keeping the clutch open). So I changed both cylinders. Works fine now. I intended fitting a remote bleeder but ran out of time. My local Triumph outlet does pattern parts less than half the price of the OE ones, without checking £62.00 for the two. 8)
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Great stuff.................thanks 8)
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Repositioning clutch slave bleed position into the engine bay rather than putting a door in the tunnel. I know this has been done but searching has come up blank. Does anyone have a list of the parts required or a link to how it’s done? Cheers 8)
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Right as there appears to be a pin still in place I have assumed it is being held by the Tolerance ring 129412, so I didn’t get one. I’m going to get a couple of plain pin/bolts and from below put a new bush on one with the register down and see if I can push whatever is already in place out of the top. Seat the bottom bush. Then as it looks like the top bush is still in place, from the top insert another new plain bolt with a bit of thread on the end to take a nyloc nut to tap back down an push out the bolt I used to snug in the bottom bearing. This bolt will have a nut fitted and tightened just enough to prevent the upside down bottom bush coming out. I’m assuming that the rim of the original bottom bush is still in place from what I can see from the bush I pulled out with my fingers. I’m wondering if I should unclamp the slave cylinder before I start to allow a bit of movement in the clutch fork but I don’t think it is necessary. I have a local supplier of virtually every fixing one can imagine and he is as cheap as chips, thanks anyway. All this might be a waste of time, but it keeps me out of the house. 8)
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Got some new clutch pivot bushes 129358 and they are not plain but are like a "top hat", so I assume they are fitted from inside the bell housing Doh. Which means the one removed from my car has had the rim removed either from wear, has broken or has been crudely removed, I would imagine the later myself then hammered back in place. So I'll have a play but I think gbox out, synchro fix, replace clutch parts etc etc will be the best bet. My reversing lamps have never worked, only the switch is left to check, might even do that while I'm at it. Plenty of time now I'm a free man - not a number(evil) 8)
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Yes, had another look this morning and it does look like there is access without gbox removal. The bottom bush I pulled out like a baby tooth with my fingers and from the top it looks like there is a pin of sorts still in place. I measured the inside dia of the bush and it was 5/16" like you say. Both ends of the bush are suspect, the top looks broken off and the bottom bashed about like it has been hammered in badly. Might fit a stainless cap head fixing instead if the OE pin, reason being the head will rotate without fouling anything and stop crap getting in the hole as well. Off to the Triumph shop. 8)
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Right I’ve had a little search and it seems the clutch fork pivot pin can just about be replaced/mended with the gbox in the car. The pedal bite has gone down a bit on my Spitty, so I thought I would replace the much overdue clutch fluid and replace the shifter bushes I’ve had for some time, while I’m there, just to see if overhauling the remote shift bushes etc will improve the failing 2nd gear synchro, I doubt it but if it don’t I’ll get the gbox out and sorted. Anyway cardboard cover off and I notice the lower bush for the clutch fork pivot protruding out of its housing at an angle, which is not right. That’s as far as I’ve got and thought well the gbox will need to come out now anyway, but sleeping on it maybe I should see if the pin has gone AWOL and tap the bush back in and put the pin UCL2713 or something the correct diameter back in, don’t know what the correct dia’ is BTW and I don’t have an old valve either. Back to the beginning. Has anyone done this, care to explain for me, I don’t have access to a Vehicle Lift but have some ramps and trolley jacks, but I’m not a supple as I used to be? Cheers Lance 8)
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Nick_Jones wrote:I have a Halfords "3 year" battery in the Vitesse with a 2004 data marking. A few days ago I thought it had finally died, but an overnight charge seems to have it back to normal so I'm now hopeful that it was just objecting to lack of use as - we shall see. Previous record was a Bosch one in my old Audi which died aged 9. Nick That's good to hear, I've replaced the Banner with a Halfords HB038 "3 year guarantee" (truth be known it was because I get 25% off shop price) ;) 8)
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My battery has expired, its been on since 2004 according to the test sticker, I think it's done well ;D 8)
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Not tried this myself. Bikers have said holding back the lever to the bars with a restraint of some type, nylon tie, and leaving overnight results in trapped air migrating back to the reservoir. So how about try wedging the brake pedal to the floor with a brace from somewhere like the seat frame or dash frame, 24hours? I know that on my bike the position of the reservoir needs to be higher than the banjo on the end of the cylinder to get all the air out. 8)
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maybe but............... The MOT inspection of the steering lock only applies to passenger cars with: . a steering lock fitted as standard by the manufacturer, and . four or more wheels, and . not more than 8 passenger seats excluding the driver’s seat, and . FIRST USED ON OR AFTER 1 SEPTEMBER 2001 The check does not apply to quadricycles. If there is doubt as to whether a steering lock was originally fitted, the benefit of the doubt should be given. It is acceptable for a steering lock to be removed if it has been replaced with another immobilisation device. Some electronic steering locks, generally on vehicles with keyless ignition systems, will only activate when the driver’s door is opened/closed. 8)