lancepar
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Everything posted by lancepar
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These are from latest 451 Fortwo model (2007 on) they come in different colours/patterns etc and also the Brabus edition. http://tinyurl.com/pv5t4fv Yes they are firm. I can post sizes if needed ;) ;) And before anyone asks - It's the wife's ;D 8)
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Suppressors were fitted to suppress noise from the ignition that made the old radios crackle (naughty) 8)
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I think my fitting instructions advised checking the ignition timing ;) and removing any suppressors from the coil :) 8)
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And ensure there is a pedal return spring in place 8)
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Put some fuel into an old atomizer spray bottle and while the engine is cranking spray fuel into the carbs, It will cough and splutter for a while so keep it running until the fuel from the pump gets to the carbs. :) 8)
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Adam, The moral of this thread, is when you have fixed your lock, have your car MOTed by a tester who is familiar with the requirements regarding classic cars :). 8)
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Chasj wrote:Please note if you remove the steering lock and go for a key on the dash you must use a discloc or similar on the steering wheel to comply with MOT regs, and, of course to keep your insurance company fitted. On another point, not Spitfires, I know people who have removed the brake sevo on older cars, this is also an MOT failure, also insurance as well. Mentioning WD40, I have had success with Ferrosal. Charles. Requirement of the MOT test in UK are as follows..... "The inspection of the steering lock only applies to passenger cars with:" and there is a list but...... The one that exempts our cars is........... "first used on or after 1 September 2001" 8)
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Me too had this problem - lock tumblers worn out - fitted 2nd hand lock from "the scrapman". Very naughty but as the Spit is kept in a locked garage I leave the keys in the lock now (naughty). 8)
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Last weekend I replaced a trunnion to clear an advisory from last years MOT. The new one was a Standpart and just test screwing up the thread resulted in no rock at all, where the previous one which came with no markings on at all, there was slight rock although I fitted it new. Anyway to the point, before fitting the trunnion I filled it with oil about quarter full and as the trunnion was screwed into place the excess oil was pushed up the vertical link and out of the oiler hole. Blanking plug refitted - Job done. 8)
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You could try another method that has worked in the past for me to free a stuck driven plate. With someone in the car with their foot pushing the clutch down and a gear selected (can't remember which would be best, but try em all), someone else (or more) rocking the car forwards and backwards. it should free off with a bang. Basically it the same as other methods but the engine don't need to be running or car jacked up. 8)
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I had the following hard to find fault. Can't remember which idiot light it was but between the bulb holder and the crystal inside the tube bit, a piece of something had come adrift and was stopping the illuminated bulb showing from the cockpit side. Might be worth a peep inside the bulb holder. 8)
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1300??????? Could be pressure relief valve sticking/sticky, take it to pieces and clean/free it. 8)
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6015 wrote:been stripping my seats today and althouh my foam is still in one piece, it might be best to replace them, are the parklane ones up to the job, they are a lot cheaper.... Yep and now I think the base foams come in one piece - even better. 8)
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Engine exhaust gases (CO) will purge fumes from an empty tank, leave about 15mins on average. 8)
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Before you do anything have you checked that the return spring is on the pedal assembly? 8)
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Oh no they don't :o 8)
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I'm sure Park Lane do kits for all the range of GT6/Spitty seats. 8)
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If the bite point of the pedal is near the floor, I would start by checking that the pedal return spring under the dash is still on. If not, put one on and after pushing the pedal to the metal, let it fly back, repeat several times and see if the bite point has returned to about the same height as the brake pedal. Without the pedal return spring the little spring in the m\cylinder can't cope and the piston stops returning for a full charge of fluid. 8)
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Have a look at the Park Lane site, I've just recovered my seats in vinyl - £99.00 post free, see if the special offer is still on. Covers only I already had some foams last year from Owen. 8)
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need help with overdrive and reverse light wiring.
lancepar replied to jamiepeers's topic in Drivetrain
Falcon - some very good info on that post, thanks :) 8) -
need help with overdrive and reverse light wiring.
lancepar replied to jamiepeers's topic in Drivetrain
I borrowed this image from another forum and it is for a single rail later model US (may be some extra wiring) spitty. It may be some help. Unlike you I don't need my reversing lamps, but may get them working one day so don't even know where the switches are located on a 3 rail box, can't even be arsed to drive her up the ramps and have a fiddle ;) 8) -
1381 wrote:Don't think the trip cable bracket is original (could be wrong as your cars 6 years earlier than mine), but on my 1500 its supposed to go on a bracket that swings out from around that area. That's right, I remember seeing an image of a single fixing bracket, I think it's in the Haynes :-/ 8)
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Not sure if the two holed backet for the reset cable is correct on mine as there is only one self tapper hole in the dash. And my Spit is RHD so the assembly is to the left of the steering column. :) 8)
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Does this help re position of footwell lamp and speedo trip reset. On mine they are between the steering column and the dash brace, dunno if this is the factory place. 8)
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I see your point James, But I would rather use a nice clean ball less nipple (I'm losing the thread here) to pump my nice clean oil through. 8)