Elma fud
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Everything posted by Elma fud
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Hi all, l got around to looking at my wiper motor yesterday, l've already bought new spindles because they were corroded and sezed solid, took top off motor and the wheel and park looks ok but when l conected it to battery go no joy thinks it's corroded up. My question is either can the motor be stripped down as it looks sealed :-/ Or does anyone out there have a usable spare with broken gear wheel that they want to sell so l can make a good one from the two? Cheers Rob
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see you couldn't do that with a new car, good work around ;)
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yer they probably fit because the diameter is the same but the pitch between the teeth will be way out which is why you are getting a lot of noise either the flywheel teeth or the starter pinion will wear badly, l'd get the old one rebuilt or get a proper 10 teeth starter.
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today a lot of people are fitting bike carbs over webers as they give better performance l guess, that could be a good upgrade ;) also better to package in the engine bay. It can also be easier to fabricate a manifold for bike carbs.
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they used it in modern car foot wells to cheaply fill spaces around heating ducts and and electrical cabling.
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lol, yer the usual addition of drain holes in the footwell!
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I'm going to add a sheet of polystyerene between the floor and carpet/sound deadening to stop them soaking up water that sits in the foot wells ;)
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that looks very nice and your upgrades will make it stick to the roads aswell, l've done the caterham type conversion to remove the trunions :) Like your collection of cars, shame about the BMW lol
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This is the extra frame work l have added to my herald, you can see the front seat belt upper D loop fixing at the top of the B pillar and the bracket at the bottom of the B pillar for the front retractor. For the rear l have removed the formed brace and added 1 inch box, then added a brace down to the lower B pillar with a further brace going to the wheel arch.
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Personaly l have found the reproduction panels very thin and you have to be very carful when plug welding with the Mig that it doesn't burn through, if you can put the holes in the new panels and weld to original thicker panel then that should be better. Altenatively you could hire a spot welder as you will get an original look joint, but they are heavy :-/ A hole puch tool is much better than drilling because you don't deform the flange as much and it will not need to be dressed afterwards. Frost weld through zinc spray is very good and will help to protect joint aswell as giving conductive layer ;)
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Without major strengthening you are really restricted to lap type belts who's effectiveness in an accident are limited but you may say something is better than nothing, While l have been rebuilding my herald it has given me the oppurtunity to reinforce the rear loop behind the seat so l can fit inertia real 3 point seat belts front and rear. The seat belt runs will need shielding from the hood material when the hood is in the stowed position.
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;) why not go for a type 9 conversion should cope with upto 200bhp
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To check your earth to the engine conect a jump lead from the battery earth to the engine and if it starts fine then you have an earthing problem. But really you should be having problems when the engine is cold as that is when you draw a higher ampage. I'd check the timing is ok and the advance and retard is working ok because this can effect the engine when it is turning over because if the spark is before the piston has got over TDC then it will be trying to force the piston against the direction of travel ;)
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What you need to use is brake pad rivets you can still get them they look like this You fit them from the inside of the channel then hammer them flat will look like the original and your glass will not catch them ;) Oh and heres a web site :) http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/brake-clutch-rivets.html
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What you need to use is brake pad rivets you can still get them they look like this You fit them from the inside of the channel then hammer them flat will look like the original and your glass will not catch them ;) Oh and heres a web site :) http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivets/brake-clutch-rivets.html
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A lot of people put MX5 seats in but they are expensive, try MR2 of MGF, what ever you buy you are going to have to fabricate a bracket to bolt them to the triumph seat mounting, if you only want them for RBBR then any three door seats could be made to fit eg fiesta escort rover 25 etc.
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You can cut the key yourself just take out the barrel and put your key in and then file down the pin/levers until they are flush to the barrel body, job done.
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You can cut the key yourself just take out the barrel and put your key in and then file down the pin/levers until they are flush to the barrel body, job done.
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I'd have to agree with Clive, it's a very nice car but with so many changes you may find it difficult to get the right replacement parts and some parts could be unique to that vehicle! I'd look for a standard car with useful upgrades eg electronic ignition, electric fan, alternator, servo brakes and also overdrive. But above all get someone to come with you who has knowledge of them as there are a lot of nice looking one out there which are dreadful underneath!
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Found it try 'car builder solutions' or 'europa spares' :)
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Look on some kit car parts webs site you can get cheaper, l'm goint to use a plastic one off a rover 214 and make it fit ;)
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5/16 unf thread, but l believe there are 3 different rol bar diameters so different U bolt sizes, 1/2 early dia 5/8? later and 7/8 roll bar dia although the 7/8 was used on the spitfire etc some people have fitted them to heralds. Look on the rimmers web site it has some good exploded views ;)
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Did you try it when the engine was cold if so then try when it is hot may make a difference but other than that get an oils sucker you can get one off fleebay used to such engine oil up the dip stick to change the oil, you can put it down the filler hole ;)
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Yes the proper convertion for 5.20 would be nearer 135 width, lol can remember have 950 mk1 fiesta with them on when l fitted the 1300 engine it would wheel spin in 3rd gear, it did get shod with 185's on alloy wheels, well that was in my youth! 145 or even 155 if they fit would improve the handling on radias especially if you go for a lower 70 profile. But if you are after original look then 135x80 R13's will be fine if you can get them!
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Yer the herald seal is too small and the rubber to hard for the glass to depress, modern door seals for convertibles have a large bubble for NVH whidh is soft and a lip for water control and quite large rubber moulded seals at the top of the A and Billars. The other problem with just a bubble is that with movement of the body the water is able to leak through the joint between the glass and seal :-/