Elma fud
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Everything posted by Elma fud
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A bit unfair lambasting his driving style and reading his first post he seams to have a twitchiness problem which l would have put down to a brake problem or worn bushes causing the rear wheels to steer. People do like to think their is an easy 'bolting on something' when there could be an issue with other components.
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Also type 9's are getting thin on the ground and considering even the last ones are getting on for 20 years old many will need a rebuild so perhaps bite the bullet and get the vitesse box overhauled, my farther had that done a couple of years ago and the overdrive and hasn't had an issue since.
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Hi problem is the cars are so old that the upper ball joint has been changed may times so camparing new to old is difficult, but so long and both the new one look the same then all will be well, you will probably have to check camber and caster angle again and toe in ;)
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I'd leave the oil in the engine, it will not harm it and will prevent any damp corrosion, but i'd remove the carb and stuff a rag in the hole then keep the carb indoors away from the damp, just turn the engine over every month, but put some oil down the plug hole leaving the plugs loose, remove the clutch or it might stick to the flywheel. As for the rear buck if it's going to need some work then put it on a pallet with some casters on the so you can move it around, then cover it with a tarpaulin use some old carpet on the sharp corners so the tarpaulin doesn't get holled then just remove it from time to time to check you don't have a swimming pool ;)
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and if you have a wagon you also have a D pillar :)
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Could be the top of your A pillar measure from the top of the A pillar to the top of the B pillar, there should be an even gap between the quater glass and the Screen pillar.
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If you want to go upmarket XJS seats will fit then you can have electric and heated ummmm Ive got some tilting wolfrace seats in mine which my brother is recovering in biscuit leather :) as he's a vehicle trimmer. then l will get a rear Ka seat and make that match the style of the fronts ;)
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You could remove the spark plugs that would may it easier to push because you are not try to fight against compressing the engine, you can also pour some oil down the bores to help lubricte the rings, just remember to refit the plugs when you have finaly moved her so thing don't fall in the holes later!
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Thinking in a modern way you would say yes but in the past we have had 2 that failed, l think you realy have to pay top money for a good make and not cheap fleebay items, bosch or facet. But realy unless you've got moster carbs an original good condtion one should be fine and there is little to go wrong. So another no vote just like independance ;)
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lol two cars with the same issue......
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I'd look at the distributor and check that the spindle isn't worn and the springs and plates are all ok, might also be worth checking you are not getting any air leakage at the mainfold. Also check the dolly cap for cracks which can cause sparks to ark around the cap. Silly question but you did put fresh fuel in?
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don't move house!! misplaced numerous bits somehow :-/ Make a list, it'll give you a good to do and a mojo boost as you tick things off, also don't get hung up on doing one area, a change is a good as a rest and have a plan for winter for stuff you can do indoors because going out to a sub zero garage will not be nice, when you have cleaned and painted something wrap it up and store it somewhere else like the loft so they don't get dirty in the garage. But my bigest advise it don't get disheartened with the pace of the restoration, it could take years, and even if you only get an hour to work on it it's still an hour off the build. Good luck ;)
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herald948 wrote:I've had some luck wrapping an old fan belt around the pulley and then clamping the belt tightly in a vise. This should work :)
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There is this set for sale on ebay looks in good condition :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1966-triumph-vitesse-1600-carpet-set-also-fits-herald-/301209383896?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item46217a73d8#ht_227wt_1029
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Just be sure to have some nice big washers for the fixing to the body and the bumpers to the fiberglass to spread the load so the fiberglass does not crack, the rubber bumper are quite heavy so there is little differnce in the weight.
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fitted 1993 escort door latches to my door, not an easy mod but hey ho :-/ but l now have central remote locking... door inner mod it does mean l will have the escort lock barrel below the herald handle, but the push button on the handle still opens the door via home brew bracket ;)
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The thing is a lot of us have added servos to the brakes, yes normal Herald brakes are ok but going from our normal car to the classis you don't want to rear end a car because you've forgotten how much more pressure you need to apply, so l see this as being the same, l've added a servo but l will see if the steering is to heavy when l have the car on the road because l have fitted slightly wider tyres and a smaller steering wheel has been fitted. But as mentioned before you don't feel confident with the welding and fabrication required then investigate a workshop that has done this before, also some kits have a fixed assistance so instead of the assistance becoming less as you increase in speed it stays the same so this can make the car feel light and jittery at speed something you don't want.
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Cyril The Herald (1968 13/60 Restoration)
Elma fud replied to Cyril_The_Herald's topic in Triumph Chat
Great work there with the quality of the work this is going to be a cracking car when youve finished, good thing with a Herald with parts being seperated you can do a chunk at a time and seeing one bit done is a big mojo boost ;D -
fuel pump?
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I'd fit it yes but not tighten the bolt up until the engine is in and the car it sitting at the correct level just like the wishbone bolts ;)
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Also worth looking on Car builder Solutions they have a good selection of bending and flaring tools ;)
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Hi, yes you are right the bottom of the B pillar is meant to be closed, this often rots out as it didn't get any kind or anti-rust treatment on the inside :-/ l think you can not have holled corroision within 12 inches of a seatbelt anchorage not sure if the same applies to chassis to body mounting, but other may be able to clarify. A lot of people leave the tread plate single skin, l used single thickness one 1.6mm and made the tread plate myself ;) at the end of the day they are not expensive so you could easily double them up.
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Hi aswell as tread plates you will need two new body to frame mounts these sit about half way allong these will help set up the gap between the frame and the traed plate, also do it with the door attached so you can check gaps as to fix it later is soul destroying ;) The tread plate only bolts to the front along the side where the sill panel fit's, the joint between the tread plate and the seal lip will depend what type of tread panels you have, if its the cheap one then it will have just a 'L' section the proper ones should have a joggle 1/2" before the meet the seal lip. You can see the joggle below, l put mine under the floor panel and then puddle welded through, l also had to make a new seal lip as mine was badly rusted :( Good luck with your project 8)
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was quite straight forward but you need a set of thin pliers to remove the cir clips and not have them launch aross the dinning room table ;). Camila l think you'll find that the wiper arm spindle and the drive tube are seizing up and removal of these is more fiddle. As l mentioned my wiper spindles were seized soild and the drive in the tube was almost stuck aswell and neede a bit of WD40 to disassemble. I've just got to clean all the old grease off and then put it back together :)
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Thanks, found the two screw how l missed them l don't know :B Anyway all stripped now and cleaned up, will test with multimeter but all looks ok think corroed terminals were preventing good contact ;)