Front sealing block revisited

[dazzer]

I've read a few threads ref the above and until the problem comes to haunt you it's not a problem. I'm now having problems curing it

I stripped and rebuilt my original engine five years ago and the front sealing block worked fine no problems, although on my early engine it does not take the two small paper gaskets (sits too proud with them fitted) but this is mentioned in early manuals and its not a problem because it didnt leak.

The engine was then rebuilt by a third party about a year ago and developed a slight leak. This reincarnation lasted all of five minutes though before seizing! The engine was then rebuilt for a third time and this time the leak was much worse.

I therefore spent a day on a borrowed ramp and dropped the front subframe, sump off, sealing block out cleaned it and checked everything, helicoiled it, replaced the wedge seals used lashings of hylomar and wellseal, new timing cover gasket and HD front main seal and the result is.... absolutely no difference. it's still ***ing out.

It must be warped or there's an oil leak from behind the front plate from the oil gallery or something but it seems highly unlikely.

So I've seen the steel sealing blocks from the US and racestorations will make a steel one for approx £50 + vat or Rimmer brothers have one advertised probably alloy but £23.00 ish. Anyone had any experience of the Rimmer brother example?

Cheers
Dazzer

[performancebible]

Don't buy any re-manufactured part, especially from RB.  The original bridge piece is excellent quality, helicoil and reface and its as good as new.  This area is a bad source of leaks so everything must be perfect and FLAT;  that means the sump and cover etc; I usually tap out bolt holes slightly convex.  Clean away every last spec of old gasket and assemble with new gaskets with the right length bolts and washers.  ( immediate clockwise is short, or it bottoms out on the main bearing cap )  Done carefully it will not leak.  There could be something I've missed ? like a worn crank sleeve that you can sometimes turn to give a new surface for the oil seal.  steve knight

[dazzer]

Thanks Steve

This is what puzzles me in that I was absolutely meticulous in all the aspects that you mention, short bolts, not a spec of old gasket anywhere, sump looks like new, in fact the sealing block looks good, I even countersunk the helicoils slightly so the surface was completely flat.

It's definitley not the front main seal as its dry in that area. I can only think it might be the oil gallery end cap behind the front plate thats somehow leaking out from behind the plate?

I thought as much about the re-manufactured parts although the Steel examples seem to have quite a following.

Cheers

darren

[nang]

A while ago I fitted power steering to my TC which of course meant changing front engine plate so had everything in bits.
Probably put it together in a bit of a hurry and it turned round and bit me in the bum,Leaked more oil than I was prepared to accept.
Off with everything again.
Found my nicely painted timing cover was quite badly warped to the extent that heat and hammer were needed.
I also threw away those horrible screws that hold it on and replaced with bolts.
I carefully measured the depth of the tapped holes and cut bolts to suit as I was worried about having too short a bolt and not having maximum thread engagement especially in the aluminium bits. Result. no more leaks.

[Nick Moore]

I bought a steel block from a guy in the States who makes them - http://classic-technologies.com/sealing-block.php. It's beautifully machined and worth the $75, I thought.

Disclaimers: NFI (I'm still planning to make my fortune by opening a chocolate mine); I haven't built the engine yet, so the good-looking block is still on the shelf. Doesn't leak there!

[dazzer]

Thanks chaps

This is all encouragement to at least know that a leak can be cured.

All the best

Darren

[Nick Jones]

I'd say it's getting down behind the front plate - probably via the cam hole. Difficult to cure without removing the front plate  :(.  It's a dubious design - too many surfaces coming together.

I have to do battle with this bridge-piece very soon as it will have to come out to change the front main.  Engine still in car  :( :( (I know this is a crap way to do it but logistic dictate!).  I'm concerned about removing it without chewing up the front plate gasket......  :-/.  The engine appears to be an original factory build.  I suspect that there may be moderate amounts of silicone involved in the re-assembly......  I'm not looking forward to it!

Nick