my newish uprated engine??

[sahtuning2000]

will i forked out for a tuned engine had it delivered to my doorstep,and after 3 days,i can say i,am well pleased,its a strange engine with little history,it was delivery totally complete,spec is as follows
2.5S engine MM
head skimmed,larger valves,flowed etc
completely stripped and rebuilt
uprated valve springs(orange inners??)
nice uprated road cam(been told its a chris witor jobbie)balanced,sports coil,
6.2.1 manifold(might get 6.3.1???)
triple 40 webers/inlets/linkages etc
the engine is a little unknown,but i,ve stripped everything from the outside,all thats left is the engine/head/sump,everything else i,ve bought new,or have already given to people to restore
this includes
new alternator
starter,alloy water pump housing,water pump,all gaskets,electric fuel pump,plugs,leads etc,every screw/nut/washer new,oil feed pipe,spin on conversion,oil seals etc,etc,and thats after 3 days,the webers are thin ice with me as they seem to be in good condition,and all open at the same time,they need cleaning which i will do,but i,am a little frightened to go ott!!,its going to get a lighten flywheel,new clutch,possible 6.3.1,roller rockers(is this a must??when i removed the rocker cover(got a mint genuine SAH one to go on)the rockers are mint,i mean mint,no sludge oil buildup etc,if you look at the tappet nuts,not one is rounded of,everything is very clean,the valves(inner)have orange paint,the valve spring caps are bright brass coloured,no external oil leaks,it will be getting an uprated oil pump,alloy sump,i didn,t pay much for it,but got to speak to the person who actually built it,he said the car drove fantastic,but was showing its age(rust)but he spent ages doing the engine,as a street sleeper,the engine was in the car 3 months until the rot killed it,and he was in his 60s????anyway,its going in a 67 mk1,i,am taking my time with getting the right parts,so any advise on what i should get whilst the engine is out,would be most helpfull,cheers

[Deleted User]

while the engine is out re-core the heater matrix they are sods to do with the engine in the car!

If the manifold is in two sections  its not the best for flow etc Retro Cars did a great article on manifold design back in the summer have a read of that it will explain all,I waited a couple of months for my witor item for the GT6 and it was worth the wait compared to the crappy SAH 1980s steel manifold that was on the car
You may have some clerance issues around the steering collum from the UJ to the rack,remove one of the spacers on the engine mounts to tilt the engine towards the nearside a bit,also think about fitting the shorter uprated starter motor as this means it can be installed/ removed without taking the carbs and exhuast manifold off (took me four hours on the Bus with a standard starter!)
Check you have the correct pipe etc to run from the back of the water pump to the heater matrix via the take off on the back of the head,I used a simple in line brass t piece which also aided in water flow to the back of the head which can be a problem hot spot
Think carefully about the fuel pipe run across the engine bay ,in the bus I tucked it along the front cross member,in the Taxi it runs across the back of the engine bay near the clutch slave pipe,not the best when mounting an in line fuel pressure regulator,which should be set to around 1.5 psi
Then buy "how to power tune weber carburetors" do a search for it on www.Amazon.co.uk
That explains all you need to know about repairing the carbs etc have a look in the on line sagas thread,or the RBR thread somewhere!think theres a few pics there of the one I built for the White Tornado

[Deleted User]

while the engine is out re-core the heater matrix they are sods to do with the engine in the car!

If the manifold is in two sections  its not the best for flow etc Retro Cars did a great article on manifold design back in the summer have a read of that it will explain all,I waited a couple of months for my witor item for the GT6 and it was worth the wait compared to the crappy SAH 1980s steel manifold that was on the car
You may have some clerance issues around the steering collum from the UJ to the rack,remove one of the spacers on the engine mounts to tilt the engine towards the nearside a bit,also think about fitting the shorter uprated starter motor as this means it can be installed/ removed without taking the carbs and exhuast manifold off (took me four hours on the Bus with a standard starter!)
Check you have the correct pipe etc to run from the back of the water pump to the heater matrix via the take off on the back of the head,I used a simple in line brass t piece which also aided in water flow to the back of the head which can be a problem hot spot
Think carefully about the fuel pipe run across the engine bay ,in the bus I tucked it along the front cross member,in the Taxi it runs across the back of the engine bay near the clutch slave pipe,not the best when mounting an in line fuel pressure regulator,which should be set to around 1.5 psi
Then buy "how to power tune weber carburetors" do a search for it on www.Amazon.co.uk
That explains all you need to know about repairing the carbs etc have a look in the on line sagas thread,or the RBR thread somewhere!think theres a few pics there of the one I built for the White Tornado

[Deleted User]

Here are some pics of webers in bits so dont panic ! they are easy things to work on just you have three to do

[Deleted User]

one in need of TLC

[Deleted User]

one in need of TLC

[Deleted User]

loooking better

[Deleted User]

ready to go...now do it to the other two!

[sahtuning2000]

what can i say,great help,and some cracking pictures to help,the manifold is the crappy steel one,oh well i know what i,ve got to get now,is 631 or 621 best?,i rang southern carbs in wimbledon yesterday,got quoted £500 to strip/clean/reassemble carbs,i,ve thrown the standard mk2 starter away,i had a high torque one,brand new but sold it,will it fit the mk1 wiring loom?or i was thinking of brand new mk1 starter,is this up to it,the engine has no mounts on it so when i buy new mounts i will get the packing peices,but its got no pas,the return pipe under the manifold looks like a standard mk1 one(one outlet with hose on)i know that the mk2 has 2 outlets,must be to do with the inlets etc,but it all seems to be going well,i,il replace that core plug aswell,just need to get a few more bits,bit expensive but it will be worth it,i hope?

[sahtuning2000]

what is the best stuff to use to clean the carbs with,getting the bodies nice and clean?

[Deleted User]

I used gunk and carburetor and injector cleaner all availible from halfords

[sahtuning2000]

i,il get some of that tommorrow,any news on the blanking plate,i,ve got to go to our hounslow branch tommorow???

[sahtuning2000]

i,il get some of that tommorrow,any news on the blanking plate,i,ve got to go to our hounslow branch tommorow???

[Deleted User]

[quote by=ajp25tc link=Blah.pl?b=2000,v=display,m=1103752935,s=8 date=1103835099]I used gunk and carburetor and injector cleaner all availible from halfords[/quote]

The carb cleaner is made by wyns its in a purple spray can
The best thing for them if they are in a bad way is to completely submerse them in a tub of petrol for a few hours

For that £500 rebuld I would expect the throttle spindle bearings to be re-placed
The re-build kits are about £15 each washers,caps and gaskets would be about £50 and if the are already correctly sized (chokes) and jetted they shouldnt be much more otlay,so you can see how much you are paying for labour and VAT ! about the only job which is a bit tricky is replacing the spindle bearings,is there much play in them?
If iwas you I would strip the carbs take them in ask them to fit new throttle spindle,bearings and butterflys,then clean and put them back toggether yourself this would save a few quid?

[Deleted User]

Tell me where to send the blanking plate and its yours you can buy me a burger at the ace sometime!

[Deleted User]

I live in Isleworth I could meet you?

[sahtuning2000]

ajp if you pm/e mail me your address i can collect tommorow,about 12.30 ish,or you can leave in a safe place,i can,t fit a burger through your door but a drink i can,in currency style??i live in weybridge,have a branch of our garage in worton road,but i,am going to the hounslow branch for a few hours(until 12 )could divert on the way back to weybridge??,i,il gret some of that gunk tommorrow,and a gallon of petrol!let us know,dave

[Tim Bancroft]

Dave,
Feel bad now, that I bought those parts from you.
Are you putting this new engine in your very nice mk.1?
When its done you must come to an evening meeting at 'The Ace' or even 'The Plough'
AJP knows his stuff with Webers- bit shaky on spark plugs though!
Shot blasters in the Weybridge area- there used to be a good company at Thorpe Trading Estate near Chertsey- not sure if still there though. Try Yell.com?

[Deleted User]

Tim less of the spark plug jokes!

As for starter motor wiring,the MK1 has a remote solenoid,the Mk2 is a pre-engauged unit,the uprated units have a link,to allow you to link out the pre-engauged part thus you can put them in a MK1 without altering your wiring loom,which is what I did just for ease,instructions came with it explaining all this,(got mine from Chris) I also converted mine to alternator while I was at it and found a Dolly 1500 alternator bracket fits with a dolly fan belt!
The wiring mods to fit an alternator are self explanitory when you look at the two wiring diagrams for alternator/dynamo I ran an extra cable from the alternator to the battery just as a back up.

[Deleted User]

I have lots of dizzys kicking about,you need the early pi unit,think I have got a couple of later 125bhp ones will have a look?
or go the route that Tim did get one modified at the rolling road to give the best advance curve to suit the engine/cam etc

[Deleted User]

let me know when the engine is in and ready for a rolling road,I need to get the MK1 done It would be intresting to compare the outputs,SUs vs Webers we could knock up an article for the club mag?

[sahtuning2000]

thanks for the comments,i,am spending the day on the engine today so should get lots done,all items tim that i sold to you where planned for such an engine,but at the time i didn,t have one to bolt the parts to!,i,ve already got a new alternator ready to fit,as for the starter i think i,il buy one of those high torque ones,the manifold has got me most worried!!after chatting to a few people i,ve now learn,t that the 621 isn,t that bad,i know its a vaste improvement over the original,but not as good as a 631,its in good condition,no damage,just needs blasting/painting,maybe i will refit it,or spend another £350??????

[sahtuning2000]

just a quick question,is there any way of telling what cam i have without removing it???to be honest i don,t really want to remove the head as everything seems nicely set up(although i might!!!!)the valve spring caps are all one peice(exhaust has 2 peice standard?)the inner valve springs have orange paint on them(uprated)there doesn,t seem to be any shims under the rocker towers,but my thoughts are surely no-one put a six branch/triple webers/electronic ignition/electric facet fuel pump etc etc,onto a standard mk2 2500 engine???it is an S engine(MM)with the S head(better breathing)ive heard you can meassure certain things to give you an idea,but not totally spot on,at the moment its got no timing cover(all new/gaskets/seals etc)would it be any use removing the timing chain sprocket(how hard is this)are there any numbers on the front of the cam???anyway any ideas most helpful,today if possible!!!!!

[Deleted User]

The fact that you have double valve springs suggests its quite an old build as the more recent ones from Chris have uprated single springs which allows you to put valve stem seals on the inlets, again the valves from chris are slightly longer and haved hardend ends this negates the need to fit spacers under the rocker pedastals all this info is on his web site
The valves I used on your head Tim are 142168 /36.75 mm

Have  a look at the file I have attached

The engine I picked up the other week built by Osseli has the double valve springs and spacers under the pedestals which rings true as it was put toggether a while ago

Do you know if it is suitable for un-leaded fuel? again dont worry too much just use optimax and some octane boost once in a while,I used a standard 2500TC to commute across London for 20,000 miles using super unleaded,and as far as I know the "flying turd" is still going well! have a look on the home page under "cars" pull up the 2500tc drop down and you can see why I called it that!

To be honest I wouldnt worry about what sort of cam is in it! just get it running take it along to the Rolling road tell them its a fast road cam and they should be able to work with that
But by cranking it over by hand you should be able to measure the "lift" on the inlet compare this measurement given in the tech spec for a standard cam this may give you a clue

Its more fun if you dont really knoew what you have got! that first blast is all the more
exciting! ;D

[Deleted User]

As for the exhuast they are a pain in the arse to fit so if you are not happy with the one you are putting on?,a new one will fit better QA seems to have improved recently!
Tip it is easier to fit the manifolds then the carb to the manifold this allows you to get to all the exhaust nuts and line up the manifold nicely
Then start with putting the rearmost carb on an work along towards the front of the engine DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE NUTS FIXING THE CARB TO THE MANIFOLD STUDS,always use new rubbers and caps and new "o ring" gasket between carb and manifold