floyd Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 I think I need a little help. I’ve had this 75 tr6 for about 1 month. It has sat for about 4 years before I got it. It didn’t have any spark so I did use the starter to turn the engine over briefly to check for spark. Made adjustments to the points and that solved that problem. Before I try to start it, I took out the plugs about a week ago and put about a cap full of Marvels mystery oil in each cylinder. Went out today and turn the engine over by hand via wrench on the alternator nut. At first I could only get the engine to turn about 10 degrees then the belt would start slipping and noticed the engine had stopped turning. I could reverse direction and almost got a full revolution on the fan blade when it came to a stop again. Now I can only get about a 6 degree swing on the fan blade before it locks up in both directions. I do hear a clunk in the engine block when it stops in both directions. Any help would be highly appreciated :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Posted January 20, 2006 Share Posted January 20, 2006 It could just be that the starter motor bendix has stuck in, if your starter has a square thing at the end try turning it backwards to see if it disengages. Also check the obvious and make sure that you are not in gear.Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd Posted January 20, 2006 Author Share Posted January 20, 2006 That was the first i did check that i wasn't still in gear. I have not check the starter yet but if that was the case would i of not been able to turn it at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jplace Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 How much oil did you put in the cylinders. Remember liquids don't compress so you may have creatyed a fluid lock. just take the plugs out and turn over several turns and the problem should go away. If the car has set for along time (yaers) it might be a good idea to remove the distributor and gear that drives the distributor and pump and run the engine oil pump with an electric drill and allen a cut off allen wrench drive(run drill in reverse). This will oil the entire engine and avoid a very painful dry start. Maybe stuck valves hitting a piston, if so don't force anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted January 21, 2006 Share Posted January 21, 2006 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd Posted January 22, 2006 Author Share Posted January 22, 2006 Well, all seems well right now. I went back out and tried to turn it again by the fan blade. It really didn’t seem like it bottoming out on anything just binding up. The clunking sound I do believe was just the slack in the timing chain. Then I got looking at the starter to see if I could determine if it was still engaged. Well I don’t know if I just got brave or stupid but I just briefly bumped it with the key to see maybe if the starter was hanging it up if that would change anything. Well it did. Now I’m able to freely turn it over by hand. There was a spot where there was a little resistance, maybe a stiff spot in the timing chain getting over one of the sprockets. I did look at the valve springs and look like all the valve stems were visually there. Does any of this sound possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted January 22, 2006 Share Posted January 22, 2006 Everything is possible :-) Personally I would take all the plugs out and turn the engine over using a wrench on the crank pulley - I have a huge ring spanner that I've kept just for this job. The engine should turn over fairly easily like this - if it sticks then keep trying! If you can't turn it over like this then doing it with the starter could cause more harm than good. What's the engine's history? When did you last have it running and what's happened to it since? Has anyone been at the engine? A friend of mine once bought a Mini with a rebuilt and alledgedly seized engine - a strip down revealed that the engine builder had uses bolts that were far too long to attach the fuel pump - they went through the block and when turned, snarled up with the crank, this caused the engine to lock solid and teh starter to burn out. New starter and a hack saw at the bolts and that engine was sweet as a nut in what turned out to be a cheap car- until he stuffed it into a bridge support and nearly killed himself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd Posted January 22, 2006 Author Share Posted January 22, 2006 The history of the car, I have no idea. I bought it from a friend of mine that bought it about 3-4 years ago as a father and son project. His son decided to join the army and then never done anything with it. All my friend told me is that he tried to start it but had no spark. I think I got that fixed by adjusting the points. He was suppose to find out the guys name he bought it from and let me know so I can get a history on it. I plan on the next warmer day is to drain and change the oil, flush the tank and fuel lines, and give it shot at starting it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
floyd Posted January 31, 2006 Author Share Posted January 31, 2006 Got my oil changed, left the plugs out. Cranked the engine over for about 10 sec. and watched the pressure gage. No movement on the gage. Am I not cranking long enough to build pressure. Hate to push my luck. I read on one the post where if you take out the oil relief valve and squirt oil in it will prime the pump. Is there a chance of oil coming out if I take out the valve? Where would I find the oil pressure line going to the dash to test that to make sure the lines not plugged. If I undo the line am I going to get oil coming out there also? Just trying to get all the answers before I tackle this so I know what I can and cant do.Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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