Mj17 Posted April 5, 2009 Posted April 5, 2009 Is it possible to manually adjust the "self adjusting" brakes on a Mk 2000?I'm asking because while everything is free in the adjustment mechanisum and the P/S works fine the D/S just don't like clicking!
Lord Sorbington Posted April 5, 2009 Posted April 5, 2009 It may be possible to operate the ratchet mechanism with a screwdriver through a hole in the drum, I can't really remember.Lots of people say that the best rear brake adjustment is acheived by disconnecting the handbrake cables from the operating levers on the back of the drums, pulling the levers towards the rear of the car, against the backplate, securing them in this position and then stamping on the brake. You should then hear the adjusters ratchet up. I think the handbrake cable tension sometimes prevents the adjusting mechanism from operating properly.You may need to adjust the handbrake cable afterwards. I got away without doing so. It's also worth checking that the wheel cylinder isn't seized and that the handbrake mechanism on the affected drum isn't seized up either.Finally, make sure that the circlip and pin haven't fallen out on the lower ratchet. I've seen this before on a mk2 rear drum which just wouldn't self adjust. The ratchet looked to be in place but with the drum removed it was obvious that due to the missing pin, the lower ratchet was in fact slightly out of position and thus totally ineffective. If you've had the drums off then you'll have spotted anything like this.
Greeks Posted April 6, 2009 Posted April 6, 2009 sorbs wrote:Finally, make sure that the circlip and pin haven't fallen out on the lower ratchet. I've seen this before on a mk2 rear drum which just wouldn't self adjust. The ratchet looked to be in place but with the drum removed it was obvious that due to the missing pin, the lower ratchet was in fact slightly out of position and thus totally ineffective. If you've had the drums off then you'll have spotted anything like this.I had a similar sounding problem, but with the actual cylinder that meant it was moving, I could adjust the brakes all I liked but they wouldn't get any better.
Mj17 Posted April 6, 2009 Author Posted April 6, 2009 sorbs wrote:It may be possible to operate the ratchet mechanism with a screwdriver through a hole in the drum, I can't really remember.That was my thinking - the book states to stick one in to release the adjuster before removing the drum...but I've never worked out which bit is meant to go which way to release it! :)sorbs wrote:Lots of people say that the best rear brake adjustment is acheived by disconnecting the handbrake cables from the operating levers on the back of the drums, pulling the levers towards the rear of the car, against the backplate, securing them in this position and then stamping on the brake. You should then hear the adjusters ratchet up. I think the handbrake cable tension sometimes prevents the adjusting mechanism from operating properly.That's the method I use - works perfectly on the P/S but not the darn D/S!sorbs wrote:You may need to adjust the handbrake cable afterwards. I got away without doing so. It's also worth checking that the wheel cylinder isn't seized and that the handbrake mechanism on the affected drum isn't seized up either.Finally, make sure that the circlip and pin haven't fallen out on the lower ratchet. I've seen this before on a mk2 rear drum which just wouldn't self adjust. The ratchet looked to be in place but with the drum removed it was obvious that due to the missing pin, the lower ratchet was in fact slightly out of position and thus totally ineffective. If you've had the drums off then you'll have spotted anything like this.Handbrake cable is ~1 month old, rear wheel cylinders ~3 months old, shoes ~3 months old, brake pipes @12 months old.Meh!
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.