Lord Sorbington
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Everything posted by Lord Sorbington
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You can get a seal kit from Witor and change them all, a very easy job. Depends how bad the leak is, I drove mine many hundreds of miles before I worked out where the smell of fuel was coming from.
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I recently had the pleasure of travelling in a Continental GT Speed, 616bhp I believe, a very impressive machine.
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The extra oil drilling in the upper surface of the repro rocker arms I bought was a mixed blessing too. Good for rocker tip lube but caused extra oil consumption. Apparently the saloon rockers only had an oil way for where the ball acts on the pushrod but the "sports car" rockers had the extra hole on top of the rocker arm too. I bought a repro rocker shaft too, it was so nice to have a smooth, quiet engine again!
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Check the adjuster screws too, I had severely worn, ridged balls on some of mine which combined with knackered rockers arms and very worn shaft meant they could never be adjusted properly.
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The original Lucas starter on my 2000 mk2 was 37 years old when I had to replace it as the solenoid was getting a bit unreliable. The recon replacement from Fitchetts worked well and spun the engine notably faster than the worn original.
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I got some from TD Fitchetts, no problems with them.
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My mate (Marina / Caddy Steve) used k seal in his Discovery V8 when the head gasket started to leak. It kept it going for a few months but, predictably, it expired in a big cloud of steam one day. Sadly, this was just after he'd sold the car and the AA man found traces of K seal in the system which led to a very irate new owner and my mate having to take the wreck back and give a refund. I'd avoid using it.....
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TD Fitchetts in Telford stocked re-con diffs and driveshafts last time I checked. Full driveshafts with hubs were around �120 each, diffs were pretty dear I think, �600 ish? Phone and ask. I was fed up with used driveshafts on which the hub bearings started to get noisy after a few thousand miles so went for new in the end. Greyhound Garage in Telford replaced the seals on my diff and renewed the nose piece + quill bearing assembly for around �180 all in. He said that he could rebuild the diff if need be but in the end new seals were all that was required. Call them on 01952 613964
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The handbooks on my BMW and Merc warn against allowing excessive wheelspin, especially allowing one wheel to spin as it will wear out the diff. A small price to pay.....
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Could be the float levels on the carbs being too high causing slight flooding, maybe the needle valves aren't seating properly or are worn, not shutting off fuel into the carbs when they should.
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Agree, distributor cap and rotor arm for starters.
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Dunno, some Peugeots were into CANBUS wiring systems by then. One model had a problem where you opened the door, the instrument cluster would power up so you could see the mileage displays but also added three miles each time! All the same, I'd go with the basic alternator fault theory before delving deeper!
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Greeks wrote:A strange one I heard from someone the other day. They had a dead battery on a one year old modern car. Turned out to be because they parked in their garage every night but didn't lock the doors. Apparently current may still be drawn (for some reason) if the doors are unlocked. Unlikely, but it could be worth testing the battery again with the doors locked? Yes, the electronics on some modern cars can stay powered up so you can open windows, have the radio on and all sorts of other stuff but power down gradually after the car is locked. Luckily my BMW doesn't do this as I always forget to lock it, it's often unlocked on the driveway for days at a time. ??) My Mum's Passat had a faulty radio which drained the battery when the car was left unused for a week.
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Greeks wrote: Is he/she the only gay at your garage ;D Seems a bit harsh to single them out. I wasn't even going to mention that!
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Have a look in the manual, I think all new cars are supposed to have daytime running lights. My 2011 1 series (non xenon) has them but if I enable them via the central dash display it's just the dipped headlamps. They come on all the time to act as daytime runners which I don't like so I set them to "off". I suspect the X1 has the same set up unless you have the xenon option with separate daytime running lights as your friend has fitted. Do the new LED lights come on and off as daytime running lights should? Just remove the bulbs from the daytime running lights in the headlamp units?? Edit Are the lights in the headlamps the "angel eye" type? You probably need to keep them to act as the side / parking lights for the MOT. I think you can buy white bulbs for them to match the LEDs?
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It'll already have daytime running lights but they may be disabled via the central computer. Switching them back on will be in the handbook. Depending on model the daytime lights may just be the dipped beam headlights, I guess you'd want those off with the new LED daylights? Sounds like the BMW dealer wired them into the factory daytime running lights? A new feed from an ignition live on the fusebox may be the best bet, would avoid interfering the wiring on the rest of the car which is probably CANBUS type. Independent feed would avoid warranty issues and confusing the bulb failure system etc too.
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Boot light staying on?? You can get all sorts of other weird current drains on modern cars too as many of the electrical systems stay powered up for a certain time after you switch off the engine. As they get older, the timer units can get a bit unreliable and keep things powered up, worth a google search on the 306 for potential issues.
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Top, near the back on the driver's side I think, assuming RHD!! Unblocking it will probably cure any leaks. Check the oil level while you're there......
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Front wheel bearing change on a Citroen Saxo today. I was amazed how huge the Citroen bearing was compared to the Triumph ones!
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That's him. Now, what was his name again?
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There was a guy at the NEC show a few years ago and also at the 2008 (?) Anglesey 2000 register national with a brilliant selection of good used panels. Can never remember his name......
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Scary (who needs a steering column anyway?)
Lord Sorbington replied to Richard B's topic in Running Gear
I think there's some law that there must be a mechanical back up linkage?? Lots of cars are already like this, movement of the steering wheel is detected by sensors which activate the electric steering system so it's really the sensors and motor doing the steering, not physical effort from the driver. -
Scary (who needs a steering column anyway?)
Lord Sorbington replied to Richard B's topic in Running Gear
Saab made a joystick controlled test car back in the early '90s. Clarkson found it difficult to drive. -
Any battery which will fit will do but take care, as the orientation of the terminals on some modern batteries means that you may need to extend the earth lead to make it fit. I got one from Partco for about £45.
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Sometimes, once the wedges have been driven in they use a little inflatable bag to create a bit more access with bootlids, window frames etc to allow access to the interior of the car.