Door Alignment

[Matt306]

Thanks for the reply Bill. Think I need two new hinges which doesn't help. Don't think the door is yo low but I will check. The tunnel bolts are pretty central.

[heraldcoupe]

2487 wrote:

The tunnel bolts are pretty central.

What about the mounting pads? Fitted OK or spacers used as well?

Cheers,
Bill.

[Matt306]

I went for a single rubber space to start on all mount points and have added washers as needed. The only place I put two rubbers where I am not sure if they should be there is either side of the hand brake mount under the U pieces which go down to the chassis rails.

[heraldcoupe]

2487 wrote:

The only place I put two rubbers where I am not sure if they should be there is either side of the hand brake mount under the U pieces which go down to the chassis rails.

That's a significant anomaly. These are the inner seatbelt mountings, the only location where no rubber pads should be required. I'm struggling to understand how the tunnel itself could spread so significantly though, it's a pretty rigid structure.

Cheers,
Bill.

[Matt306]

I should say i used one on each side, I'll take them out.
There is only one rubber on each side of the tunnel mount points.

On the edge where the outrigger meets the bulk head, i have Outrigger then rubber strip, bulkhead lip, another rubber seal then back tub.. it appears a bit thick.


Thanks again for your help Bill, when i get this sorted hopefully you'll that Windscreen seal instock.

[Matt306]

Ok door lifted up abit the check strap look dead centre of the gap now.

I have this gap on the rear/front sections on the drivers side.

I put rubbers under this part here I take it I shouldnt have? (It's taken on the old tub which i decided was too rotten)
Finally anyone know anything which has some more strength than these which are meant to secure the tub and bulkhead to the outrigger

[heraldcoupe]

2487 wrote:

I put rubbers under this part here I take it I shouldnt have? (It's taken on the old tub which i decided was too rotten)

Ah - that's different. These usually benefit from a thin strip of rubber, inner-tube materrial is ideal, between them and the chassis.
I thought you meant the locating points for the inner ends of the seatbelt, there should be no rubber at these points except possibly some Dum Dum which finds it's own optimal thickness.

As regards the clips for the centrefixings, the originals were a lot more beefy and welded to the outrigger. Nuts & bolts are a more robust alternative if you find the replacements too flimsy,

Cheers,
Bill.

[Matt306]

Thanks Bill.  Did you have any thoughts on the post on the previous page i did earlier

[heraldcoupe]

2487 wrote:

Thanks Bill.  Did you have any thoughts on the post on the previous page i did earlier

The order of layers is right, nothing which causes concern there.
Quarterlight height in your other photo looks good, but as that can be moved within the door, you also need to ensure that the top of the skin matches the height of the bulkhead at the front,

Cheers,
Bill.

[Matt306]

I still have the problem of a huge amount of spacers on the back outrigger to close the gap. Any thoughts or is it a case of just live with it?  I have measured there is 3cm of spacer on the top of the outrigger under the body.

[heraldcoupe]

The fixed points for the rear shell are the mounts above the diff and the centre outriggers. A single pad either side under the diff and the sequence you described earlier at the front. This relies on the centre outriggers being absolutely straight, any error here and you're into making it up as you go along......

I digress, with single pads at these few points there shouldn't be gaps. Every other point should have a single pad to provide sound/vibration insulation, any remaining gap is taken up with solid shims/washers/spacers. The spacers aren't intended to raise or lower the shell (as per factory), they're there to take up gaps and ensure that everything bolts down properly. Bear in mind that lifting the shell at one point to level things up will affect clearance at other points. If you raise a single point and put tension on others, you are effectively putting the rigidity of the shell into conflict with that of the chassis. You want the structures to complement one another structurally, rather than introduce stresses.

None of the above addresses the alignment of course, but it reinforces the point that if you need 3cm of washers to take up a gap, you really do need 3cm of washers to take up the gap.

In the real world of course there are many compromises to be made - the factory chassis would be built within (relatively) close tolerances, while a new bodyshell would not have suffered from the numerous stresses which distort them over time.

Cheers,
Bill.

[Matt306]

Thanks for your reply Bill I suppose its a case of just accept it... perhaps in time it will settle down and improve.