Head light switch help

[R1CBM]

I want to replace it with a non TR7 one as they are pi55 poor.  Any suggested alternatives?

[Rumpith]

The best solution is to fit a relay, so that there'e not so much current running through the switch.

As a short term measure, always flick the switch quickly so that there's not too much "sparking" to burn the contacts/rockers.

[Beans]

Or use some heavy duty toggle switches, available from any good motorsport shop

[Rumpith]

Yes, that's an option. They look like DPDT (double pole, double throw) to me, which would be logical for the way they need to operate. Alternatively, just use 2 SPST's, one for side lights and one for main beam

[R1CBM]

[quote by=beans link=Blah.pl?b=tr78,m=1177422545,s=2 date=1177434841]Or use some heavy duty toggle switches, available from any good motorsport shop[/quote]

Hmm tried them, didn't work.

From what I can see, I have 3 contact points, call them A,B,C,

When the lights are in the following configurations:

Off - no power all ok
Switch to side lights, power comes to A, B
Switch to On power goes to A, C
Switch back to side lights the power from A ,B shuts the lights down

So, if I have 3 toggle switches, and have a on /off for each A,B,C the following happens

A on = side lights
A + B on = side lights
A + B + C = side lights + main pop up and down and then up and down etc..... :)
A + C on = side lights + main pop up

If you then do the following order:

A on = side lights
A + B on = side lights
A + B off + C on = side lights + main pop up
C off + B on + A on = side lights + main pop down
All off - all off

in that order :-(

[Rumpith]

Your best bet really is to use a relay - they're not difficult to fit!
My understanding is that you just need a relay for the main beam power - the side lights and pods are low enough draw on the current to be OK for the standard switch.

Are you OK with the wiring or do you need a schematic? (not trying to insult your intelligence, but some people have no idea about auto-electrics)

[R1CBM]

[quote by=RumPith link=Blah.pl?b=tr78,m=1177422545,s=5 date=1177490055]Your best bet really is to use a relay - they're not difficult to fit!
My understanding is that you just need a relay for the main beam power - the side lights and pods are low enough draw on the current to be OK for the standard switch.

Are you OK with the wiring or do you need a schematic? (not trying to insult your intelligence, but some people have no idea about auto-electrics)

[/quote]


Help apprciated pls :-)

I am ok doing the wiring, no experience with relays?? Auto electrics, help required, happy to get stuck in and have a go with some instructions :)

Thanks

[Rumpith]

OK. A Relay is just a big switch, but instead of using your finger to flick the switch, it uses an electromagnet. Two of the contacts on the relay will be for the elecromagnetic coil: Connect the main beam feed that currently goes into the swich onto this, and earth th other side. Now when you flick the switch, you'll hear the relay "click". The relay will usually have two further sets of contacts: One pair usually open (makes the connection when the relay is activated), and the other pair usually closed (breaks the connection when the relay is activated).

Now all you need to do is run a new, high load wire from the fusebox to the "usually open"contact, with another going from the other side to the headlights.

In practical terms, you can just re-use most of the wires that are already there, just re-routing them through the relay.

I'll dig out the wiring diagram when I get home and tell you which wires go where!

[Ellis]

[quote by=R1CBM link=Blah.pl?b=tr78,m=1177422545,s=6 date=1177499293]


Help apprciated pls :-)

I am ok doing the wiring, no experience with relays?? Auto electrics, help required, happy to get stuck in and have a go with some instructions :)

Thanks
[/quote]

There is a thread around with a wiring diagram I did (and I think one James did as well) - hang on I'll see if I can find it !!! ;)

[Ellis]

Here's James' diagram

Enjoy !!!

[Rumpith]

Very pretty! Thanks for saving me the effort. As I say, I'm not sure it's necessary to put a fuse on the dipped circuit, but in for a penny...

[Hasbeen]

I have found that the heat generated by a poor connection between the switch, & the connector it plugs into cause as much of the problem as the switch itself.

Believe me, we look after those switches very well here in Oz. We have to. New, they cost just over $90.00 here.

[R1CBM]

You guys just rock

Thanks for the help, I'll get the kit out this weekend and have a crack  :-)

;D

[bmcecosse]

So - please excuse ignorance here (newbie to TR7)  - but does the lights switch have an additional seperate output to operate the pod lifting mechanisms - or is this just taken from the headlamp circuit ? 

[Beans]

According to the UK and European wiring diagrams (1980 ans 1981 models) there is a seperate circuit from the switch to the headlamps (direct) and the headlamp motors (through relays).

A workshop manual is a good investment tho  ::)
There is one which you can download from Malcolmp's site http://www.parisworld.co.uk...