Dolomite10 Posted March 12, 2006 Share Posted March 12, 2006 Is there anybody out there that can assist me with an annoying problem on my 1972 Triumph Stag. I aquired an engine for my stag from a chap in cheshire a good 18 months ago. The engine was sold to me as having only covered 7000miles after a complete rebuild, the receipt said it was sold with absolutely no warranty what so ever. Due to family commitments it took a life time to actually getting round to fitting it. On start up it turned out I had bought a duffer, and not at chancer prices. The engine didnt even have a thermostat fitted, so I guess the majority of you can guess whats been the problem. So in what little time I get I stripped the top end down. Had the heads skimmed, the surface finish wasnt the best due to the fact over the coarse of time the heads have been welded here and there. So a thick head gasket set, and new stud kit later I put the top end of the engine back together. Not to mention a new jack shaft and a rebuilt water pump. (On strip down of both stated components, both gears were "shot at") I fired the engine up, lots of smoke and water in the oil, oh dear time for a head scratch. There was also lots of pressure around the top end. Having consulting somebodies expert advice all was not to bad. I followed the advice retorqed the heads back down (THERE WAS A FAIR AMOUNT OF MOVEMENT, ) Changed the oil and filter, ran the engine again. It certainly ran better, there wasnt the excessive pressure around the top end. I carried out a compression check on the engine all seemed ok, certainly above 9bar, and the bores not full of water. However there is still water in the oil. Now this is were Iam getting to the end of my tether with it. Could it be it is in need of a good engine flush? Or can the inlet manifold gaskets be allowing water into the oil somewhere? Or could I have made a mistake in the waterpump overhaul? IF ANYBODY OUT THERE CAN SHED ANY LIGHT ON THE MATTER PLEASE HELP, THANKS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Is it water in the oil or is it condensation in the filler cap?Run it up to temp. Take it for a drive. If you have a milky filler cap then its probably just condensation. If water is finding its way into the oil then it will almost definately be the water pump seals. Don't panic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 having changed the oil and filter as previously stated there is condensation under the filler cap, but my bigger concern is the white slutch that has climbed up the dipstick. Do you think i should rule out giving the engine a flush through with something and go straight for the waterpump? I did put a new seal kit in the waterpump, having this been my first stag restoration and waterpump rebuild i am not ruling out that i could have dropped a clanger, cheers for the quick response wakaday, its good to know there are fellow enthusiasts out there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ballykine43 Posted March 13, 2006 Share Posted March 13, 2006 Without a really good engine flush you just wont really know whether it is simply residue or a real problem. It's not enough just to change the oil and filter. Same thing happened to me years ago. I had changed a head gasket, got the dreaded white sludge, and changed the gasket again. Still the sludge. Panic, no funds, but had to take it to a garage. Smiles, headshakes etc. In those days they used diesel fuel to wash out the engine. A handshake and a few pounds. Hope you can be as lucky.. but I don't think diesel fuel is the safest thing to use as a flushing agent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 13, 2006 Author Share Posted March 13, 2006 I wunder if kerosene would be a good engine flush, if so how much of it, perhaps a 50/50 mix, and run for a few minutes? Also, ive been looking at waterpumps. Now call me old fashioned, but it appears to me that the saab 99 waterpump looks very similar to a stag/dolomite 1850/sprint pump. Apart from i think all saab pumps are 6 vane. Would the impeller be interchangeable with a 12 vane? It would be interesting to find out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 15, 2006 Share Posted March 15, 2006 You can fit a 12 vane but you need the matching cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 Is it as straight forward as just pressing off the impeller and pressing back on a 12 vane impeller. Is the cage and shaft identical. If this is the case, i dare say it might make engine rebuilds a bit cheaper for your average stag enthusiasts. All be it saab 99 not being as popular as stags and possibly dolly sprints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 16, 2006 Author Share Posted March 16, 2006 Time for an update with water in the oil problems on my stag. This morning i thought id give the engine a flush through. So i drained of some of the contents of the sump. Bearing in mind there had been alot of water in the oil, the content was fairly high up the dipstick. I drained enough out so the content level on the dipstick was between the two lines. Then thought id top up the water level, well, what do you know, in topping up the water level i appeared to be filling my sump up. The dipstick level had rocketed above the max level. So what do you think to that WAKADAY, waterpump seals as you first stated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Yep.Waterpump seals is the easiest place to start. The Six and Twelve Vane pumps have interchangeable impellors. You just need the correct cover. I think I have a Twelve Vane pump and cover for sale which will appear on Ebay if it is a Twelve and will still appear if its a Six. I haven't taken it off the Engine im currently dismantling yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SprintV8 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 You could try getting a old rad cap drilling a hole in the centre and fitting a tyre valve to it.Fit in place of the original and give a few pump's with a bicylce pump.Any leak's should show up.Leave it pressured with a clean white sheet underneath to aid finding the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Hey Sprint v8.Slightly off topic but the transplant you have done to the sprint is one I am planning on a TR7 one day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SprintV8 Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Which oneThe Stag which is now removed and sitting in a different garage for completion,Or the ongoing TVR AJPV8?. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 17, 2006 Share Posted March 17, 2006 Yes. You are nuts in a sensible V8 sort of way. I just fancy putting one of my stag engines in a TR. I did the normal V8 conversion two years ago and sold it and bought an MX5. Don't know what I was thinking off at the time but im hankering after another V8 and just may be picking up a SD1 vanden plas EFI very soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 17, 2006 Author Share Posted March 17, 2006 Mr Sprint V8, is this sprint the one that had the front front wings extended. New old stock waterpumps on ebay are still fetching silly money. Its to lat to try the test you recommended before as removed the waterpump for inspection this morning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SprintV8 Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 Mine is the very same extended Sprint.Best to test the water system with a complete set up,IE nothing missing before stripping apart.Sorry been off this board for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 I have looked long and hard at the sprint and can't work out where the wings are extended. Give us a clue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 18, 2006 Author Share Posted March 18, 2006 How else could water be getting into the oil other than the waterpump? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 18, 2006 Share Posted March 18, 2006 If its going in without the engine running then the chances are its the pump. If its anything else then I would worry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SprintV8 Posted March 21, 2006 Share Posted March 21, 2006 I have looked long and hard at the sprint and can't work out where the wings are extended. Give us a clue. Check the front nose panel the one in front of the bonnet for the added lenght. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 22, 2006 Author Share Posted March 22, 2006 What do you think to water pump repair kits? I would ideally prefer a new pump but the cost is silly. Even second hand new old stock are still getting good money.The Sprint V8, I seem to remember reading an article on the car in the dolomite owners club magazine a while ago? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Define "silly money" - buy a kit, take time to fit and it fails so you try another or just go straight to a new pump, add up the cost and the down time. Now bite the bullet and buy a new pump, fit it and njoy driving. Somethings are worth a risk, others aren't :-) Hindsight is a wonderful thing and the closest you're gonna get is this board. Personally I would go for the best components you can buy in critical areas like this - easier said than done if you're feeling like the car is a money pit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 "New"pumps are not necessarily the answer... there are plenty around which have inadequately hardened gears and they will chew out your jackshaft in no time... causing blown headgaskets and the need for a bottom end strip down...If you have a good (but leaking) original they can be rebuilt.. the parts are not expensive but it can be tricky to do properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolomite10 Posted March 23, 2006 Author Share Posted March 23, 2006 Well Jason and Andy, points taken on board by both of you. I know the waterpump shaft is a goodn, there is no wear beyond the case hardening. The jack shaft is also a goodn provided for me by paddocks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 New water pump £180 (and may wreck your jack shaft)Water pump Rebuild kit £30 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wakaday Posted March 23, 2006 Share Posted March 23, 2006 Id go for the rebuild kit. The gears on the pump and jackshaft will be nicely meshed now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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