AlanChatterton Posted May 11, 2015 Share Posted May 11, 2015 ok, I'll give that a try, not considered that the lifting pin just lifts the piston a touch.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Elbows off and lift the carb piston slightly with a screwdriver.Strombergs on Stag V8 do not have lifting pins. Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thank you, I'll give that a try Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted May 12, 2015 Share Posted May 12, 2015 setb the needles flush with the base of the piston, using lifting pins on any carb despite whats written is a waste of time , it needs to be in its running condtion, filters etc will obviously affect any setting done with them removedths stroms on stags will have temperature compensators on the side , the small plastic covered box on the sidethese have two seals that leak , remove the two screws and extract the unit, there's a o ring at the base of the projected boss and one that seals the outer edge of the boss to the case any leak allows waste air in the induction behind the throttle platein the unit you will see a shrt plunger , this is opened by a bi metal spring, its more important these little sds are closed at normal temperature than Open,, most old ones are open all the timenever mind the spec for setting them , turn the small nut to close it fit new seals and check the resultif these are open air is constantly bled to the back of the throttle plate and idle mixture can never be set correctlythese at early tamper proofed units and lift pins and twiddling was Removed and designed to be difficult ( early emission rules) set the needle to have the small nylon disc just about up to the base of the piston.and it should be fine the air intake is also temperature controlled an the thermac valve in the cleaner applies vacuum to open close the baffle and mix air from exhaust duct and fresh to maintain a steady 70f , this all needs to be working Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 MK1 Air filters don't have Thermac valve, and these are fully rebuild units by Andrew Turner so I'm not going to fiddle with the internals!!The workshop manual (Leyland Service notes) says it has lifting pins, but clearly mine don't.I set the carb needles level with the bottom, and it won't run without choke. I need to richen it considerably. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 As far as I know no Stromberg carbs have such lifting pins.As suggested try with the needle shoulder flush with the bottom of the piston. Then try a full turn upwards. Anti clockwise if I'm not mistaken.Also make sure the jets in the carb bodies are at even height. Makes for easier initial setting.Should it still be too weak with needles at extreme rich then you may tap the jets a bit further in.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJT Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 699 wrote:As far as I know no Stromberg carbs have such lifting pins.As suggested try with the needle shoulder flush with the bottom of the piston. Then try a full turn upwards. Anti clockwise if I'm not mistaken.Also make sure the jets in the carb bodies are at even height. Makes for easier initial setting.Should it still be too weak with needles at extreme rich then you may tap the jets a bit further in.JulianClockwise to richen, anti-clockwise to weaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanChatterton Posted May 16, 2015 Share Posted May 16, 2015 Got it, thanks.Running so much better now. Ended up being at fully rich, then back down one full turn. Runs great.Timing was out too, thats now sorted. Its pretty close now, driveable, which is what I wanted as I am almost ready for an MOT ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony66 Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 so is it recommended to keep these bimetallic strips on each carb closed? my stag was a bit sluggish and i could hear a very slight pop back while cruising on one carb-but a diaphram had a small tear so i replaced bothcar seems better now...even without re- balancing will make sure these strips are closed if that makes it better and i will rebalance the carbs-i havent as yet touched/removed the strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony66 Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 so is it recommended to keep these bimetallic strips on each carb closed? my stag was a bit sluggish and i could hear a very slight pop back while cruising on one carb-but a diaphram had a small tear so i replaced bothcar seems better now...even without re- balancing will make sure these strips are closed if that makes it better and i will rebalance the carbs-i havent as yet touched/removed the strips Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Yes they should only open to increase idlle and weaken the mixture when very hot normal running they must be closedjust twidle the small nut to get the plastic plunger to seat and close the flowtheres good techy on how to do this in some manuals but http://www. buckeyetriumphs.org is good for write up and pictures on strombergsnot stag but principles are the samepete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Yes they should only open to increase idlle and weaken the mixture when very hot normal running they must be closedjust twidle the small nut to get the plastic plunger to seat and close the flowtheres good techy on how to do this in some manuals but www. buckeyetriumphs.org is good for write up and pictures on strombergsnot stag but principles are the samepete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony66 Posted August 20, 2015 Author Share Posted August 20, 2015 i removed both-they were stuck open a bit so i fabricated a wee part[aka nut and washer that the plastic bit holds in place keeping the bypass shut-it has removed the lean running feeling my stag had in midrange,havent checked mixture at idle yet but it runs well so will leave alone-carbs are balanced ok too i checked that after messingthanks for the tip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 good when the cheap back to basics fix works Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.