midgeman Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 While the Engine & Box are out of the car I thought it might be a good idea to replace the clutch. On inspection the Plate is nearly down to the rivets so must be changed not sure how good the Pressure plate is although visually its seems OK no noticeable damage to face (it is a Borg & Beck unit) so could be the original as the car has done a genuine 53000 so not sure what to do about that. The thrust bearing seems OK but can anyone advise the best method of removing and replacing the Thrust Bearing from the Carrier so as not to damage the Carrier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 Drift out the rollpin and slide forwards....Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simoneg Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I've always got release bearings off without removing the carrier from the clutch release arm. Hold the release arm firmly in a vice or by clamping it to a bench, bearing upwards. Then put stout screwdrivers underneath and either side of the bearing and gently lever upwards against the sides of the release arm. A few light taps on the end of the bearing carrier, using a blunt drift placed inside inside the bearing itself, might help but never been needed in my experience. Replace by carefully pushing the new bearing onto the carrier using LIGHT pressure in a vice. Bearing and carrier must be square-on and if the bearing doesn't start to go on easily then it probably isn't square, in which case clean up any burrs and try again. Worth checking that the slotted carrier mounting lugs are free to rotate slightly within the release arm (within limits imposed by the roll pins). This allows the angle of the release bearing face to match that of the pressure plate, i.e. to maintain square-on contact between bearing and pressure plate. I think this point is often overlooked and might account for some of the quirky clutch problems reported here from time to time. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midgeman Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks very much for the reply I think that your description Simon is more applicable to my type of clutch.Alan.98086 wrote:I've always got release bearings off without removing the carrier from the clutch release arm. Hold the release arm firmly in a vice or by clamping it to a bench, bearing upwards. Then put stout screwdrivers underneath and either side of the bearing and gently lever upwards against the sides of the release arm. A few light taps on the end of the bearing carrier, using a blunt drift placed inside inside the bearing itself, might help but never been needed in my experience. Replace by carefully pushing the new bearing onto the carrier using LIGHT pressure in a vice. Bearing and carrier must be square-on and if the bearing doesn't start to go on easily then it probably isn't square, in which case clean up any burrs and try again. Worth checking that the slotted carrier mounting lugs are free to rotate slightly within the release arm (within limits imposed by the roll pins). This allows the angle of the release bearing face to match that of the pressure plate, i.e. to maintain square-on contact between bearing and pressure plate. I think this point is often overlooked and might account for some of the quirky clutch problems reported here from time to time. Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midgeman Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 Thanks for the reply.Alan.1218 wrote:Drift out the rollpin and slide forwards....Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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