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Wiring a new alternator


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Hi, I have decided to replace the Dynamo with an alternator on my 68 my 1 gt6( sorry all you purists).

I have seen vids on line and the nuts and bolts bit us all ok, but I am confused as to what needs to be replaced with the wiring.

Can anyone advise what replacement wires need run and what I need to keep to fit an alternator.

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You have to alter the wiring at the control box.
I have made a connector strip by cutting open and flattening a bit of copper tube, then cut tabs. Needs to be in an insulated box or whatever, but made it reversible. Or you can change the connectors to O connectors and bolt them together, or just solder them (not easy, the cables are thick)

Anyway, the earth lead is no longer used. The WL and F  wires need to be connected together.
The rest of the cables need to be connected together.

I have heard people using a busbar fusebox to join cables and effectively add fuses.

One more thing, it is worth adding an extra thick cable from the alternator to your battery positive. The alternator will be higher output, and this will be a belt and braces approach making full use of the charging available.

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Thanks Clive , very helpful, it seems a lot easier than I had imagined.....thanks

Iain I hadn't looked at a particular alternator yet, is there anything you recommend ?? ( by the way, I nearly broke my iPad trying to swat that annoying little ant thing in your profile.

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Thanks Iain , I will look that one up,

Does anyone know if the adaptor bracket is still available for a mk1, I have been looking online, rimmer only do it as part of a kit, and quiller don't seem to do them, are they even necessary???

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Fit a volt meter as ammeter bypassed, which would not have handled the output of an alternator in any case and high current through its wiring potentially dangerous.
Actually the ammeter is not completely bypassed but would be connected via a shunt so may show some movement.
Assuming the car is negative "earth" you can just use its +ve feed to the +ve of a voltmeter and the -ve of the voltmeter to frame and best isolate the other ammeter connection, for the sake of tidiness as it is only connected to the harness -ve.
Disconnected wires can cause confusion during future fault-finding so handy to label it as it could be useful as an "earth" connection if one is required in the future.

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