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Replacing hood


A TR7 16V

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The hood has finally split under the near side window and will have to be replaced - why does duct tape stick to anything but the vinyl?

I've done TR7 ones, so I'm reasonably confident doing it with a little help from the other inmates. But where to get the hood? 

Any recommendations? I note the Don Hoods seem most reasonably priced.

Also, is there a list anywhere of what other bits not like to be with the hood that I'll need, maybe pop rivets, etc.?

Graham

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Don Hoods have a good reputation. Not a herald, but I bought  spitfire hood last year, ftted well and good quality (it was their premium vinyl, I wouldn't use the economy stuff)

You will need pop rivets probably for the poppers. The ali strips around the door are probably nuts/bolts or maybe pop rivets. There are clips under the ali trim (above rear window) could be the orininal clips or new pop-rivet style buttons. And contact adhesive....

Well worth checking the header rail corners and brackets there for cracks/damage (very common), get any welding required done while the hood is off 

Current sunny warm weather is very helpful. As is patience.

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Nice to hear that Don's Spitfire hood was good. I haven't found anywhere more reasonably priced.

Most of the rest I'd guessed was going to be needed.

Most of the poppers were screwed down and that wasn't working, and the holes had got too big for rivets that would fit in the poppers. So I've replaced all but the middle two at the back with stainless cross-head bolts, nuts, and washers. I think the problem with them two was access - I was working alone and me arms ain't that long -, which should be easier while the hood's being replaced - and the boy's 12 now, so he could be helpful if I shut the Wi-Fi off and lie about why it's down.

It's the headrail bits that look different to the TR7's. So any specific advice there is welcome.

It may also be a problem that I don't have the trim over the rear window - it didn't come with the car. I see Canley's have them at a reasonable price, but I can't see what fixings come with, or are needed - all I've got is some holes. So again, any specific details would be welcome. Like, will the hood have the holes and/or can I just keep ignoring that trim for now.

Also, I hope there's no welding to be done, cos everywhere near's shut and there's the risk of getting stopped driving up to where I know a man who I expect is still at work - I won't have a good excuse, like that fella who was driving from Leicester to London, and said it was cos bread were cheaper there.

Graham

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Quoted from RobPearce-

When you say you don't have "the trim over the rear window", are you referring to a stainless steel strip where the rear hoop supports it? If so, I think that was fitted to Vitesses only, and mine is missing it without any sign of adverse effect.

Certain they are fitted to all herald and vitesse. Otherwise how will the hood attach to the frame at that point (OK, have seen large head pop rivets, ugly as sin)

I think many just got binned over the years and seen as a faff to fit.

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Quoted from RobPearce-

When you say you don't have "the trim over the rear window", are you referring to a stainless steel strip where the rear hoop supports it? If so, I think that was fitted to Vitesses only, and mine is missing it without any sign of adverse effect.

Yes. There must have been one cos I have the holes where it went. But I have no idea how it fits. I don't see any holes through the strip in Canley's picture, so how are they supposed to fit?

Graham

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There are a number of clips originally that are pop riveted through the hood and to the frame. When I last fitted a vitesse hood 20 years ago, there were button headed pop rivets being sold as the clips were NLA. 

I remember struggling with marking the hood to align with the holes in the frame. In the end I was a philistine. I used a 1/8" drill, used the holes as a guide and drilled right through the frame. That enabled me to use the drill up through the holes to go through the hood when I was happy with positions.It worked OK. But a real worry when making holes in the hood...

On the canleys site, if you click on the diagram of the finisher, it lists the finisher, plus fixings etc. The 567228 clip rivet is listed there, so seems to be the one that will fit the hood trim too. But ask when you order the trim?

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Thanks Clive, I'll send them an email asking about them.

I got a reply from Don hoods on the lead time: They can cut but can't assemble till the lockdown is over, or at least diminishes. But if I order (and presumably pay) I'll be given priority when it does. So I've got to look elsewhere if I want one soon.

Does anybody have anything on the James Paddock ones or god forbid the gRimmer Bros ones, or any other sources. I have a lead time, at least, on the Prestige hoods of 7-10 days?

Graham

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it's on.

I got it from Prestige. Turned out they had a sale on, so it was £50 cheaper than I had expected. Only problem was they said 7 to 10 days to make it and deliver, but it came in 2. So 'd expected to have time to get rivets and stuff off ebay, and didn't. 

It's tight enough fore and aft, but not as tight as I'd like side to side: I struggled a lot with the rivets at the front corners - one I did 5 times with 4mm rivets and failed. In the end, I came to the conclusion the hole was too worn and ended up using a 4.8mm, and far too much effort for a hot day like today. I really needed two bits of pipe and the confidence a spare rivet gun would have given.

But it's on and it'll do to keep the rain out. I think the only real cost in doing the front corners and what would be the B posts in a hard top again will be in the foam seal at the front, which I'm not sure I can use thrice.

Graham

 

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Well done! I cheated - justifiably as the 'hoodrail' had disintegrated & they are rather expensive, so bought a full replacement hoodframe with hood attached - it certainly ain't perfect but blends in with the 'ratrod' look...

 

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Yeh, the new hood spoils the shabby-sheque look a bit

But I've already spent too much on a 12/50 bonet that will do that when fitted - I think the early bonet (and number plate light) look much better than the 13/60's. But I know that's personal taste. It is changing the car from standard, but it's already mostly Spitfire under the skin anyway. So It'll be a sort of  Herald 12/75. I bin wondering if a longer axle ratio is worth the effort.

Graham

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